|
Done yet?
BUWAHAHAHAHA! |
|
get that carbon fiber out of harms way !
|
Just ordered a handful of metric bolts to finish mounting everything.
Also just ordered a new Griffin aluminum radiator, Vintage Air a/c condensor, Stewart Warner fuel press., oil press., and boost gauges, and low profile electric. My next purchase(mid May) will include black IC piping, Intercooler, 55lb injectors, and some other small odd and ends. |
Nice! Any success sourcing a spare bumper?
|
nah, im gonna try to have the stock one work. I'll look into that more once i buy the intercooler
there is a clearance issue with part of the carbon fiber engine cover and the adjustable belt tensioner. seems a piece will need to be trimmed *cringe* |
Lay down the intercooler in a horizontal position.. looks to me you should have enough room. this way you just have to trim the underside of bumper cover which no one will see.
|
well, ran into another clearance issue between the S/C pulley and a bolt for the A/C bracket... solved it by recessing the bolt. Now I have more than enough room.
All hardware that I'm using for the mount is metric, so obviously I cant get Grade 8, so therefore I'm using all 12.9 grade. For comparison, Grade 8 is 150,000 psi tensile strength and 12.9 is 176,000psi. Additionally, Ill be using blue threadlocker since lock washers are useless with grade 12.9 bolts. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...5-04205418.jpg This weekend, I have to make 2 more spacers. I have a foot long piece of 7075 Aluminum round bar stock. I gotta cut 2 sections, both under 2" long, and then drill them down through the center. Should be fun, especially when I'm making them fit to 1/10,000th of an inch tolerance. |
Made the spacers but ran into yet another setback... lol. Once again just a clearance issue. I have to remake the main bracket to solve it. Not that hard only, 2-3 hours fab time, but I had to order another plate of 6061 Aluminum which should be here tomorrow.
On a side note, I'm pretty sure FedEx lost my new aluminum radiator somewhere in Nevada... |
Radiator finally arrived, and boy does it look sick. lol. Its a Griffin Aluminum 2 row radiator. Yes, it has a little less surface area than stock but compared to the single row, 1" wide core of the stock rad, its is a huge improvement.
Next step is to make new mounting brackets to put it exactly where I need it to go now. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...5-10182121.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...5-10182113.jpg |
Dats nice
|
|
were ya order your gauges from paul ?
|
Is that single fan going to pull enough cfm for your engine?
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
Who knows when I'll get around to doing more work on this though... lol |
wow this is taking forever haha,
i guess i should work on it more huh? Today I fished all the spacers and whatnot in order to mount the head unit. I just have to put it on the car now and then run the I/C piping. looks pretty huh? http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...6-19163104.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...6-19163433.jpg |
Looks great, that attention to small things like making a bracket fit perfect will eliminate the nagging issues down the road, like belt rubbing under full load. Looking forward to seeing the completed project.
|
Shouldn't see any bracket flex there. Looks nice.
|
I remember in a thread I made about a year ago, I mentioned possibly making my own bracket and stuff, and my fabrication skills and tooling available was brought up.... I think that question was answered now, lol.
The main plate is 3/8" 6061 aluminum, same thickness as the stock one, I also had to relocate 2 bolts further out because it was cause interference issues with where the alternator pulley will sit. To relocate them, I had to make that smaller bracket too. The cylinder spacers are made out of 3/4" 7075 Aluminum rod that I cut and drilled to match the original ones. All measurements are down to .001" The spacers that hold this all to the engine are made out of 1" 7075 aluminum rod I also cut and drilled. The ones that came with the kit were for an f-body so I was only able to use one of the 3 original ones. All hardware is grade 8, the metric hardware which attaches this to the engine is all 12.9 grade. Since I didn't want the idler pulley putting any stress on the bolt going into the s/c headunit, I put a 3/8-16 stud into the headunit, then a measured spacer, followed by a coupling nut. that nut tightens down onto the stud, providing the proper standoff, and then the idler pulley bolt screws into the coupling nut and locks the pulley down to the main plate itself. The idler is a timing pulley for a ford 2.0L engine. Looks better on this application I think. I needed a idler with an outer diameter under 2" and this has a 1.8" diameter. The backside of the belt will ride on this and the belt will go on the inside of the bracket(not near that one close bolt head). Now I just have to put this in place and then start building/putting the car back together from the front of the engine forward. I still have to make the custom a/c line ends, lower rad support, trim factory fan setup, layout I/C piping, buy I/C, and sleeve my fuse box for an I/C pipe.(gonna be interesting)... Then injectors and load it on my trailer and drag it off to get tuned... |
just read this whole thread, had no idea you were doing this Paul. It looks amazing from what we've seen in the few pictures you have posted. I hope you found some time to work on it this weekend. Cant wait to see the final product and watch/hear it cruise around Bergen County.
|
I am very impressed with with way this has turned out, since you are building this from SCRATCH without blue prints or anything else to guide you along. Good luck with it working the way you hope it performs.
|
Took some time to do a little more work on it today.
I mounted the head unit to the car and made sure I had clearance on everything. It looks great and fits just right. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...6-24144800.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...6-24144754.jpg I then started working on the routing for the I/C piping. I cut 2 holes to run the pipes out f the engine compartment. But before I could do that, on the passenger side, the main fuse box was in the way. To solve that issue I had previously planned to sleeve the lower corner of the box which was just dead space. I took some pics so the concept should be easy to understand. Now I just have to epoxy the sleeve in place and touch up the aluminum with black spray paint. The I/C pipe will slip through the sleeve. I have to order some new I/C pipes in black and some 3" silicone couplers tonight. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...6-24154348.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...6-24155320.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...6-24161547.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...6-24161551.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...6-24161739.jpg |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:40 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.