I also have non adjustables in my car. No issues as well so from experience with the same springs and shocks you should be OK.

Can't imagine what kinds of drop is required to change the distance that much from the rear to the chassis

Awesome! Thanks guys for your experiences. I feel a lot better knowing I should be ok.

I'll have to try sealing the weep hole. Is their a certain way that works best?

Just look and see if the wheel is centered in the wheel well.

This is a terrible idea. Do not do that.

The only reason to modify anything with that hole is to protect your opti.

Here is what I did to my Delco:

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...m/c2482016.jpg

JB weld and a vacuum tee. Then the hose is routed away from the opti, so if the WP starts to go bad it's not going to ruin the distributor.

If you run an electric, nothing wrong with sealing that thing up. Alas the point is moot here.

Before I put my new water pump in, I'm going to weld a tee into the hole also. Great idea.

I hope you don't mean electric or gas weld. That is not necessary.

I meant I'm going to do a JB weld lol

:) cool.

Hoping this pump with the bolt on back plate, lasts longer then the GM pump in their now

So I've ordered new A arms from BMR, and sent back the OEM ball joints and control arm bushings. Hoping to have it all back together by end if January. If not, February. Should be ready for the 2013 Power Tour this year.

Bit off topic but you mentioned it so I'll ask. When is the Power Tour in 2013?

Not positive because I don't exactly remember, but I think its in may? I gotta look it up

Got my A arms, Torque Arm and Panhard Rod today from Mr.UPS. Now I have everything to begin putting it back together the rest of the way. Once the fuel assembly and rear suspension are back together, it'll be time to focus on the water pump and then onto the front suspension. I expect it to ride damn close to new again. Should handle corners better. Can't wait to see how it feels to drive with a functioning set of shocks and springs. That damn clunking in the front end had better be gone too, lol. Its the control arm bushings and a bad ball joint, so these a arms should make a big difference.

Ah thanks. A bit too far for my tastes and funds now. If it were hitting through the Northeast however, I would have seen if I could hook up with the convoy.

Take pics of the work, I love me some shiny parts!

Still can't figure out the photobucket app. I think I installed it, but can't figure out how to upload pics. Anyway, I've just about got everything in. Just gotta get it aligned. I'll be out this year at various meets to show how it came out. Still gonna add a few more upgrades this spring. I decided to upgrade some components on my Formula before going any further on this car since only things left on here are the torque arm. But since I don't launch this car really, and my bird has a lot more hp, I'm installing the torque arm along with a PanhArd rod on the Formula next.

So its all together now. New fuel pump and sending unit are in. New water pump is in. A Arms are in. New Adj Panhard rod is in. New torque arm is in. New trans mount, in. Forgot to order new strut mounts, so I had to wait for them. Was able to get the exhast off without having to cut if off at the axle. I love the way the Bilstein shocks and the tuned Eibach springs handle. Car rides much nicer now. The sway bar bushings and links are in. I have two issues to contend with...first , the Y pipe is 3", so now after re-installing the cat back, the Y pipe is laying against the body under the drivers door and is smaking the floor during take off. My motor mounts, although rubber, are perfectly fine. I'm going to try and loosen the motor mounts and see if their is any adjudtment left in the mounts to possibly drop the engine a 1/4 of an inch. That should be all I need. If that doesn't work, ill try poly mounts. The other challenge I have is, after having the car was aligned, the car drifts/pulls slightly to the right more than I'd like it to. The shop gave me the print out showing it aligned streight. I'm going to have them check it again, but if all seams fine, I'm going to be scatching my head for a spell on this one. I already switched the front tires, to check for a bad tire, seeing if it would pull the other way, but to no avail. Does the same thing with the tires flipped. I'm wondering if the Panhard Rod, being adjustable, could be having something to do with it, possibly needing an adjustment during the aligning process. Other than that, it runs great. I think its only lower by about a 1/2 inch-1". Not hitting anything. Handling is noticeably better. Alittle harsh on larger bumps, but nothing to be alarmed about. I'll keep everyone posted as I try and figure out how to create more room between the unit body and the exhaust. I'm also going to see whats up with the alignment and I'll let you know what I find.

I wouldn't try to fix the exhaust issue by messing with the engine height. Might cause some driveline issues that would end up more annoying than the banging y pipe

Yeah, that makes sense. I have a peice of pure silicon I got from a friend that has a melting point of over 600degrees ferenheight. I've got about 1/4 inch clearance between the body and the pipe. It's actually the part of the chasis that looks like a frame runner, running down the body. Like where you'd put the Lift Arm to raise the vehicle. That rail is about 1 inch lower along the body. I'm going to try and clamp the peice of silicone to the Y pipe and see if it muffles the noise and cushions the banging between that rail and the pipe. If that 1" rail runner formed into the unit body wasn't there, I wouldn't be having this challenge.

I'm going to be installing polyurathene engine mount centers that install in my old mm brackets. See if that helps