Yea, you cannot plug the connector in as is, the frame prevents it. I could do what you are suggesting, but it boxes me into have to depin the harness every time I wanna pull the trans out.

Want a easy, simple way to have the trans be plugged in and out.

do this... open up trans, remove the connector, extend the wires, close up trans and run harness in a different place.

how many wires in harness?

Around 12 wires give or two, at least two cannot be unpinned. They are hard connections to PCM hot/ground common leads.

ok even with a decent sized hole cut in that frame peice you wont be able to sneak your fingers in there to attach and detach the harness from under the car? ... if this is so what if you "notch" that frame peice? cut a section of it out and creat a "c" channel with some 3/16 steel or somthing then will the harness be able to run on the outside of vehicle like factory? catch my drift? lotta ?'s in there sorry just trying to help you figure this thing out without actually seeing the car in person

I have thought of doing that my issues are..

A) Do not want to remove the trans again
B) Figure if I am drilling/cutting, I might as well make it to the harness comes into the car, PCM will be in it anyways
C) Drilling a hole and sealing it with seam-sealer is something I can do, welding in metal is something I cannot

ok.. but is it not a bigger pain the in the ass to remove interior every time you have to disconnect that plug. if your looking in the long run to make life easier should the trans have to come out and not remove carpets and such (i forget how shifters in the autos hook up, didnt know if you have to take out console or not). take time now and do it clean and nice. up to you though. i think iv exhausted all my option for doing this. what ever you decide good luck with and if you need me to weld something or help with that let me know

You wouldn't have to remove the interior, the wiring would go down with the trans and be unplugged later. I think a big hammer clearance wouldn't be a bad choice.

lol... so why cant he do what i said yesterday and just cut a small hole from the inside and a larger on in that frame peice... if it can be unplugged once trans is lowered a little... chances are is that once this wire is passed through the tunnel it should never have to be removed... i cant see why it would be..

Hahaha I dono maybe I'm wrong but I am assuming that structure has to be removed period and the floor pan is curved where he wants to put the grommet so its making using a hole saw difficult.

You putting in a roll bar?

Not at the moment. I know, I know no need for soap box.

a hole saw on curved metal is actually not that hard. use a decent pilot drill bit to make the center hole, then use a duller bit that fits in. that way it will be less likely to "walk" or open up the pilot hole to an oblong shape. Then just hold the drill with both hands and start it slowly and adjust speed while holding the drill in the same angle the whole time.

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1367453067

Metal cutting hole saw FTW :rofl:

well that should work lol

I see the connector! It looks lower?

Angle of pic and curve of metal surface are playing tricks with ya.

You should keep swiss cheesing the car.

Why, it will weigh what it needs to.

Do it for the lulz? Every little bit will be needed against the elusive pewter catfish.

F that thing, I just wanna run Adam's car and see if we can both shift out of first.

Matt, now put a piece of cardboard inside the trans tunnel(to cover the trans, and use rustolem spray paint, like flat black grill paint(high heat) and spray from the inside of the car into the hole. That way you can get some better coverage on the inside of that void in case you get any water intrusion after you figure out the plan to plug the hole.

You could seal the hole in several ways now, other than a large round grommit/gasket. One would be to make a square plate with a hole drilled in each corner and a slot halfway down the middle. drill 4 holes on outside the trans tunnel around the hole which line up with the 4 holes on the plate. insert wiring, then slide plate over wire(through slot) and use 4 machine screws and bolt plate in place after using seam sealant. You could also put the plate on the inside, and re-pin connector through it so its one with the harness(use small grommit then). then cut a horizontal slot on the interior hole so you can slide the plate in laying down, then flip it up to line up with 4 inner drilled holes and then bolt in place.

I may have lost you in the progress of that last paragraph. lol, ill draw up pics if you want.

Nah I got what you are saying Paul, I think for now, I am just gonna run it without a grommet because I honestly have not a clue if the harness work will not have a million gremlins.

If things work as planned (highly doubtful), I will work on a nice plate with a firewall fancy grommet for the harness.