For those following along, here is a pic of the rotor.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...psxgv917hy.jpg

The soft front springs and heavy nose result in all the dive under braking. I have my shocks at full compression and it doesn't really matter. I have a new set of front springs I will put in sometime soon. It won't solve the issue but it should help.

I followed the break in procedures for every set I've owned. The issue I'm hearing is the ceramic pads simply can't tolerate the rather instant/rapid heat when I brake from a 1/4 run.

Never heard of that but I will look into it.

Thanks Craig. I didn't think the drilled rotors would give me any benefit but they only came this way from Brakemotive. I actually only wanted slots. I will be contacting the bigger name companies to see what they offer. If I can keep my front drag wheels and get reasonable braking, it will save me $1,400.

The basic rule for rotor sizes is 3 inches less than wheel diameter. So you should be good up to about 12 inch rotors. Some wheels might allow a little bit more but you should be safe with 12's. There should be a good selection in that size that will work with your budget.

Good luck
Craig

So here is the rundown of options after speaking with a few vendors. In general, the consensus is that while the rotors could be more efficient, the pads are likely the culprit since they are not able to withstand the heat. Going with a big brake setup won't result in necessarily better braking with the drag setup since I only have so much tire to work with. This was a good point made by Kore3.

Strano:
Try new pads that can take the heat. He recommended Hawk HP+ front pads and HPS 5.0's for the rear.

Kore3:
Better pads would help but the next good option is a front C6 caliper, good rotors and pads. They sell the kit for about $700 and it would work well with the stock rear calipers. The nice thing is that all of the parts are off the shelf sans the new brackets. He advised if I have the 93-97 spindles that it would be best to mod them versus doing the same to a set of 98-02 spindles. The 98-02 spindles could be resold easier if unmolested of course. I would be looking at another $1,400 for new front wheels.

Stoptech
Better pads would be a good first step but they would be happy to sell me a big brake kit. They did have an interesting thought of running a decent street pad and then switching pads before I head to the track. It's not a terrible idea since I would prefer less dust during street duty.

Wilwood
These folks have a new brake caliper/rotor setup that will fit under a 15" wheel but it's mainly labeled for drag use. I'd still have to check if they would clear my 15" Welds if I went this route. They sell bigger brake setups but you are still confined to their products.

To start, I think I will try a new set of pads and see how I like them. If I find it just doesn't work, I will make it rain on some new parts.

The question now becomes which pads I try.

Drop a boat anchor out window? If you got the money strange brakes or something along those lines

I agree with Tobin. Was going to state that in my earlier response. Your seeing high heat for a brief period of time for a single use vs repeated on road course. Experiment with $$$ rotors and cheapos. Easy to change out.

I run Hawk HP+ and like them. They a little dusty. Gunmetal rims hide lots of it.

Strange brakes are drag oriented so those would not be ideal for primary street use. I already have a boat anchor in the front of the car. :bertstare:

That's what I'm thinking. Try different pads and just accept the dust. If I ruin another set of rotors/pads, then I will just need to spend the coin on something bigger. In reality, the brakes really only need to haul me down once from high speed. I'm no 1320 video highway star so I do not need anything real crazy.

I think you should come take a look at my setup before making a decision. I have a Wilwood 4 piston setup and LS1 rear brakes. I had the toughest time figuring out why the brakes sucked when I got them. Had a long thread about bleeding the brakes because I just couldn't figure it out. Turned out to be the pads, as once I put in Wilwood's race pad, the car stopped so well that it would hurt your chest if the pads got hot and you didn't modulate properly. It's not for everyone, but it offers flexibility you don't get from stock style brakes, but there are some pros and cons to consider.

Also, Wilwood makes a bolt on kit for C5 Vettes that could be used on our cars with brackets. That will save you a good chunk of change.

I'm not counting out the Wilwoods but I think it's worth messing with a different pad on my current setup. If I need a bit more, then I will weigh the options of a different rotor/caliper/pad.

Makes sense. Just figured I'd throw that out there before you called an audible and splurged on a new kit.

Just an FYI, 98-02 backing plates are near impossible to come by in new condition these days. If you are even considering it, keep an eye out sooner rather than later.

Is there a real benefit to swapping in the LS1 rears?

I don't know. I'm sure others would chime in. Just a heads up from what I know.

I appreciate the feedback on the Wilwood setup. I may take you up on checking those if I get antsy and looking to pull the trigger.