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Talk to a pro....Don't try a piece this thing together using a Jegs or Summit Catalog or any other catalog for that matter. Have a nice long discussion with a pro, answer the questions, know your budget, know your tolerance levels. Know that the custom built carb for this engine will be about a $1000. Know that a stock t56 won't last long with sticky tires at the track. Know that the fuel system for this motor could be pretty expensive $1000? A solid roller valvetrain will be $1000 at least.... Have you ever seen or driven or been in a car that has an honest 600 hp N/A motor? A small block? Not a 540 inch BBC, Not 450hp crate 383, not 500 hp 406, but 600 hp 383...not on spray.....not with boost, not at 13 to 1 compression, but good old fashioned crack the throttle and let her rip 600 hp on pump gas? I haven't, but would love to go for a ride in one.... 600hp at the crank in a 3200lb car is a mid 10 second ride......at least There is a sign on the wall in a friends shop and it reads something to this effect: Pick any two of the following three things: 1. Fast Car 2. Cheap Price 3. Good Work Because A fast car with good work don't come cheap. A fast car at a cheap price won't stay together long A car with good work and cheap price isn't fast. Do your homework..... |
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When you suggest to use GM fast burn heads on a 383 to make 600 hp, that is not doing homework. When you then mention you can get them for 675 in summit that is a clear indication that you do not have the means to support your desires. Not taking shots at you, just making an observation. Here is something I found real quick, I don't know these guys or anything just for some quick numbers: http://www.cmengines.com/Engines/Str...5/Default.aspx Notice the 383 is not offered above 500 hp. Notice the 434 is used beyond that point, because the cubes make it easier to make the power. This was suggested by others. The 434 comes with a "new" block, meaning aftermarket, this was suggested by others. And you are still short of 600hp and that is at 11 to 1.....the ragged edge of pump gas for a carbed engine, again mentioned previously in this thread. http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/s...es&brand=World http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ine/index.html These guys bypass the 383 altogether and if you want 600 hp they got it, but it takes 454 cubes of small block (again suggest by others) and that is a 10k motor. here's your 383 with an easy 600 hp, but its blow thru carb....... http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...est/index.html That combo ain't cheap......right arount 10k.... So when I suggest you do homework, I mean do some digging. Put down the Summit and Jegs rags. See what other guys have done to build a similiar engine and what I think you will find is that its a tough nut to crack if you stick to your current parameters. Chris |
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Asking around is a good start. It might keep you from making some mistakes. The first thing to do is stop looking at the catalogs. That Eagle rotating assembly MIGHT last up to 450hp before it explodes. Those heads wont do it. Dont look at cams based on what numbers you THINK might be good. Ask bracket racers what they use. Talk to guys that have been building these motors for a while. If you want the motor to be done right, everything that goes into it must be complimentary to one another. intake to your heads to your rpm band to your bore x stroke to your CR to your vehicle weight to your rear. Randomly slapping it together will equal a car that wont run its number, if at all, and definitely inconsistently. And thats if it doesnt blow up. Putting together a 600hp small block isnt cheap, and the example 1QWIKBIRD had is really good;
"There is a sign on the wall in a friends shop and it reads something to this effect: Pick any two of the following three things: 1. Fast Car 2. Cheap Price 3. Good Work Because A fast car with good work don't come cheap. A fast car at a cheap price won't stay together long A car with good work and cheap price isn't fast." |
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http://arbyte.us/blog_archive/2005/1...on_dollars.jpg |
I'd consider doing a big block if you were starting from scratch. They ain't a bad fit in a 3rd gen, and a 600 HP big block can be made w/o having to work it all that hard. Plus you get that big block TORK!!!
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ok...Well with the dart pro 1 platinum heads with the next size smaller valves than the ones I wanted wanted Superchevy had a 383 make 512hp@5500 rpm. http://www.superchevy.com/technical/.../photo_18.html
found the article online http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...t_results.html thats with a single plane intake and an of the shelf carb. I think 383s are more than easily capable of what I want. I think its more a matter of Its easier to build a high number motor with more cubes, and with the ability to get big block cubes in a small block package just seals the deal really. |
Here you go, $15k. Now add another $10k-$15k to get everything caught up.
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Whats important about that article is that there is NO information as to what is in that motor. They could be using a $10k short block for all we know. Start building the motor in your head and research each part as you go along. Start with where the build starts, the block. Find that then move to the crank (manufacturer you want, not the actual crank), then rods, pistons, establish your CR, figure out your vehicles final weight minus engine +driver, what trans you want, how you want it to launch, where your shift points will be, where in the rpm band you want it to sit, then you can start focusing in on the specifics. Cam specs, rod length, bore, stroke, intake, flow numbers, etc. Think about the cam and heads later. Start with the basics.
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bubba, don't worry about what you combo is yet. you have an idea and a goal, that is a good start. the next step is to look into getting the money together and working on a budget for your goal.
look at what parts capable of supporting your goal cost and come up with a ball park figure of how much you need. once you know the amount you need and how long it will take you to raise it, you can start planning the combo more specifically and worry about which actual part numbers you are going to want to buy. 600hp on pump gas is doable, but it is going to cost. so take your time planning and make sure you get all the right parts and have the right approach going in. you don't want to have to buy a whole bunch of expensive stuff multiple times because you weren't prepared going into the situation. |
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Another thing to keep in mind is that 600hp on a n/a small block is pushing the limits using pump gas and no power adder and keeping it under a ridiculous number cost wise. The very loose general rule is 2hp per cubic inch on a big block n/a all out race motor. Thats pushing the limits. NHRA Pro Stock motors are 500ci and make about 1300hp, but I don't think a $150,000 motor is in any of our budgets. Small block motors are a lot harder, and are roughly 1.6hp per CI. Thats 612hp on a 383, so its doable, but that'll cost you a lot.
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And NJSPEEDER, I plan on taking a VERY long hard look into every part. I'm definitely not just gonna slap it together and hope. I want to run 11:1 compression so I need to figure out what pistons to use. I really like the fact that they're motor made 500hp in a reasonable RPM range. although I'm going to use the SBC beehive springs for it to boost up my RPM range before float. But I'll say it again I'M NOT STARTING ANYTHING UNTILL NEXT WINTER!!! |
The block i decide to use is going to be gone over VERY VERY care fully. I'm actually going to take it to the same guy that does engine work for some body I know. And he runs his car in the 8.50 bracket all year. It even held up to 3 nitrous backfires. (BTW this is a full built 68 camaro)
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Chris |
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:lol:
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AWESOME...maybe I should just sell crack
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Maybe I am sounding too harsh. If so I am sorry. All I am really trying to impart to you is that 500hp 383's are everywhere and I think they are on sale at Wal-Mart right now. 600hp 383's are much tougher to find, espicially NA and on pump gas. I realize its only another 100 hp, but the horsepower to money relationship is exponential. As you continue on your quest you will undoubtedly uncover the numerous hidden costs on such a motor. There can be no second rate parts. I doubt you will find beehive valve springs, dual plane air gap intakes, flat tappet cams (hyd. or mech.) or the like in the final recipe. I would expect to see a forged bottom end inside a studded 4-bolt block with a good set of aftermarket rods, top notch machine work, a full roller valvetrain (likely to be solid roller) double springs with Ti retainers, possibly an entry level shaft mount rocker setup, heads that flow 300 cfm with single plane intake to match. I wouldn't dare guess as to the cam specs??? Holley HP series carb 850cfm(max power??) 750cfm (better street manners???), MSD lighting the fire. 1-7/8ths primary headers to a 3-1/2 collector for starters??? Lots of attention paid to the combustion chamber size, piston type, quench area to control detonation. That's my guess. I look forward to next winter and the completion of your project, because when you get this beast together I'd be very interested in the final results. If you can pull this off without breaking the bank I think you'd have a lot of people's attention, including mine. Chris |
if your not starting till next winter, and dont like anyones advice because you know everything, why did you ask?
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