correct, you don't have to. I just stated that that may be the reason writers of that "how to" say its necessary to pull the water pump.

No need to have a 5 page discussion on it.

i wasn't arguing what you said, matt just wouldn't accept. and this is only page three :nod:

we have more ruining to do :lol:

Well PS pump is a bitch to take off anyway, so moral of story, get LTs and OTVC wires. Solved.

i changed the opti on my car without hte p/s plum being removed

I saw another write up that said PS pump, but nothing about the Air Pump, so I guess whoever wrote it didn't know the difference! Or probably though it was a PS because that would be the normal location on a SBC.


From what I’ve read, the solution they are working on uses a stock LT1 wiring harness (96-97 = Crank position wiring already there, pre 96 you probably just need to add that wiring), then some type of connector/conversion for the harness to plug into a 99+LS1 ECM. The signal for the cam position was originally done by a sensor that will bolt in the stock location of the opti,, but that might change due to the crank sensor ( read below)….

On the test engine a double roller chain and E-WP is used. I’m not 100% sure if this is actually needed, or if they were just planning that anyone doing this would want to take advantage of higher RPMs so a stock chain would be a typical swap as well?

The problem they have is getting a quality signal for the crank, the LT1 crank sensor is different then the LS1, and cannot easily be adapted. Placing a small wheel within the timing cover doesn’t work because there really isn’t any clearance in the LT1 cover. So the solution may be some type of external wheel, or possible something within the timing chain cover.

As I said previously, my ECM uses an external crank wheel, people had problems with the original mounting point if they ran an E-WP it caused interference. So when I designed my setup I built a relocation bracket. Si it could be some type of signal interfernace issue they are having?

Other then that the rest of the harness basically remains the same.

They have driven the car a few hundered miles and reported it runs great when the crank sensor is working properly.

So once the conversion is done you have no opti, remote coils, an ECM with more potential And you can control the 4L80E trans with it!

** Also note you could now tune your LT1 with HPTuner, allow you to use very robust software,,, And we have local tech support!

That sounds great but does the price make it any better than going with a megasquirt, FAST etc...?

Do you actually know what the problem is yet? As in, has it been professionally diagnosed or are you just planning to throw parts at it until you stumble across an answer?

B??

let's do the second one ;)

It hasn't been officially diagnosed, but I know that's what it is because the wp main seal went and i had no coolant in the car after that. Thinking logically and using Newton's law to be 100% sure, the coolant could only go one way.. DOWN. And THANK YOU CHEVY what is down? Opti.

And either way, if I throw parts that don't fix it then at least I have new parts :wink:

and then you'll have no money .....

The seal on the waterpump body? if so it would have been a slow drip, how did you not notice the puddles?

I have to ask, did you bother to replace the water pump yet?

Pfft, if she did that, then he theory of the opti could be ruined. :rofl:

they did replace the waterpump already.

I can't wait to hear what the theory is after the opti is changed and it still runs like poop. lol Maybe there should be a poll about what part to change next. Plugs? Wires? Coil? ECM? Anyone care to guess?

How long was it driven with water spewing every where?

Never really looked, it wasn't leaking, then I drove it a little bit, noticed I was overheating, pulled over and no coolant.

I have to ask, do you think I am retarded?

Plugs and wires are bot done. And it just randomly started doing that....


You know, what you call "my theories" are not even what this post was about.. If I want to put excess money into my car and change unnecessary parts, well.. I guess its my wallet hurting not yours.

The topic of the post was an opinion as to which distributor was better, not an opinion as to whether you guys think I am doing it the right way. I appreciate the advice, but asking idiotic things like "did you change the water pump" is kind of pushing it. If YOUR water pump spewed s*** everywhere would you change it? C'mon.

damn guys, I don't think taking cheap shots is going to help her much......

get the MSD its quite a bit more but I liked mine and I've always heard good things

Bubba:

I am not sure what you are talking about (standard style msd box, dizzy, and coil vs. optispark) but a lot of the aftermarket "late model" ignition parts are not nearly as reliable as factory parts. MSD optis have been known to stop working well before a GM one would, as will their coils. Speaking from experience, I had a set of Accel aftermarket coils go south on my GTP after 127 miles (yes, I counted). Older style MSD stuff is terrific.

There were a lot of problems with the early variants of the MSD opti, but they seem to have worked out a lot of them. And if they do fail, you can yell at MSD and they will repair them.

I didn't know the first part, but as for the second- sure, you can call and yell at them, but that won't get the car on the road right away.

Agreed, but try calling up GM and saying that the opti from a 1993 car is not working well. I would be interested in what they tell you.

lol i did calll gm and tell them that.. and the guy kinda chuckled and said well.. lemme price that for you.. $711.01

Geez, tell them you could get a MSD one for less than that.

Tell him to eat ****. You can do much better than that.