hmm the napa is on sale for 215.10 online. From what i can find online this is a AMS kit. Anyone try this kit?

ugh nevermind the napa clutch is a Luk set.

Not sure if this is true or not, but a while back I had heard that most of the pressure plates are made by Valeo and then re-branded for other companies like Duralast and Spec. Clutch discs are different though.

I just ordered the Valeo kit

Did I win?

Avoid SPEC clutches. mine suck ahole. I've heard good things about Competition Clutches though

Not yet Thor. I haven't dropped the Trans yet

Haha my money is still on a roasted clutch!!! :). Good luck I hope it fixes it!!! Keep us posted

Some fool certainly could have ruined his clutch. Everything he described initially screamed hydraulic issue. That's why I asked for a video as one person's description may not match my interpretation.

I got the valeo clutch in today and the disc says made in Korea... WTF.. Oh well

Korea is better than China.

ok I got the trans out today. That was interesting. The way to get the clutch fork off. Yikes thank god I watched a video as we were stuck on it. My brother wanted to keep pulling the trans back and I said no I think this is how you can break the fork. Any way I still dont know anything about the clutch yet as Im stuck with one bolt left in the bellhousing. Its the one closest to the drivers right foot. Damn its tight in there. I cant get anything in there straight. Im going to get a swivel socket and see how it goes

Take pics of what you find

OK the center of the clutch disc had broken apart. The two parts on the back of the heads for antifreeze seem to be leaking and they are tight. How do I cure this?

Here is the back of the engine

The front side of the Trans is wet but not the clutch or pp

Trans is wet with antifreeze ? Or oil ? Is flywheel wet too ? If antifreeze maybe the bolts are the issue. If oil, check RMS, China wall (intake), oil pan and valve covers for leaks/wetness.

Those are the steam line crossover banjo bolts, they sell seals otherwise try high temp RTV? That's what I ended up using, no issues thus far. Torque to 30 ft-lbs.

How many miles are on the flywheel? I would resurface it if you're going through the work, I think it cost me $30 at a local machine shop for the service. Also, I would get a new pilot BUSHING (not the bearing, they break!), Napa sells them.

all of that.

The flywheel is at the local shop for 65 bucks. Ill try to see where the engine is leaking other than the banjo bolts leaking.

Checking for leaks

My trans / bellhousing looked like that. Although I rebuilt the whole motor with new seals so I can't say what the exact cause was. However, I did note the oil pan bolts were finger tight (should be around 12 ft-lbs along the side and 15? Ft-lbs at the corners) and it was always wet along the sides. Could be a combo of things too.

Have you ever re-sealed the China wall along the back of the intake ?

If I belive all the LS guys you should stop using fram filters. (yes I know this is not an LS)

Tough to see but looks like it's leaking from the pan as the RMS appears to look dry. As you may know, LTfuns like to leak from the rear of the intake so start looking high and work your way down from there. If its dry at the rear of the intake where it meets the block, then it could be the banjo bolts on the back of the head. Normally you would notice coolant loss if it was leaking and it would be a nice puddle on the bottom of the car, not on the inside of the bellhousing (even though it could get in there).

Definitely get a good eye on the pilot bearing to make sure it is not screwed up. It would be a good time to replace it. I know folks recommend to get the bushing vs the bearing but I've not had an issue using the bearing (famous last words). If you decide to replace it, be sure to reference the depth of the current bearing so you can get the new one set at the right depth.

I'd bank on intake especially with an egr still installed but I was already wrong once in this thread :lol:

yucky yucky fram

while you're in there, do your rear main seal as well.

Is it true if I take the housing off of the rear main seal the correct way to put it back on is with the oil pan lowered or off. I thought I read that somewhere. If that's the case I will just pry it out and put a new one in.