1QWIKBIRD is really talking a lot of sense here, Bubba.

I was very involved in the building of my brother's two engines. One was a 383SB, the other a 427BB. Both engines were professionally built and dyno'd on the same engine dyno during the same week and atmospheric conditions. Here's the rundown.

The 383 is/was a 9.7 compression motor. Comp 292H cam, fully ported and polished fuelie heads (2.02/1.60 valves), KB hyper pistons on an Eagle rotating assembly. Crower 1.6 roller rockers, ported and matched Air Gap intake, 750 holley. It made 430hp and 470 lb-ft, ran excellent on pump gas and could probably be done up for 5-6 grand.

The 427 is a 12.5 compression motor. I picked out the cam, it's a Crane solid roller with .714/.714 lift (not sure of the duration). GM 049 heads pocket ported with 2.19/1.88 valves, JE custom pistons on an Eagle rotating assembly. GM/Crane 1.8 roller rockers, Victor Jr intake, 830 Race Demon RS. It made 621hp and 555 lb-ft. This costs about 10 grand. Runs on pump gas, though we use GT100 to be safe. Mild enough to be driven on the street if it wasn't so loud through race bullets.

My point is this. The aforementioned 427 looks like what you want to do with an N/A 383. That will be tough to do considering you want to run fewer cubes, with less compression, a smaller cam, and (chances are) heads that have more turbulence and may not flow as well without work. To get to that power you won't just be paying for parts but also paying for labor to port, polish, smooth, flow, etc. Building a 383 that is around 500hp will be a lot easier of a goal to attain. The 383 above could probably do that with a better cam and more compression.

I think I speak for more than just myself when I say that I want you to build a kick *** motor that you will be happy with, and I DO NOT want to see you with a pile of parts and empty pockets. That happens all the time. Example: If you go solid roller on the street, you are looking at Isky Red Zone or Crower HIPPO lifters if you want them to last for very long. Non HIPPO lifters tend to need replacement quickly since they aren't lubricated as well. Just the lifters will cost around $400. If you don't plan for that, you may end up being able to afford only part of your valvetrain.

Yea...I plan on making a few phone calls and trying to figure out a few things in the next few weeks. I gotta keep this to the wayside though...at least until i get my camaro rolling again

cant explain it huh? i can. start from scratch, go on LS1tech or EBAY and you can find a LS1/ A4 or M6 combo for $3,000+ and there is no explanantion why LS1s are sick. they just are.

Couldn't say it better...

Chris

yea but then i have to deal with the computer

You can slap a different intake and a carb on it, while still capitalizing on the better design and more bulletproof bottom ends. But a built LSx longblock will cost more than a built Gen I longblock.

- Justin

You say that like it is a bad thing.

Edelbrock makes a carb intake for the LS-1.

no, you dont have to deal with the computer. take it to somebody and get it dyno tuned. this way you know what kind of power youre making. TECHNOLOGY FTMFW! youll be able to get decent gas mileage and stilll run 11s. for example- me untuned, crappy trans etc etc. im only putting down 342/362 to the wheels, running 11s and getting 18city/23highway mpg. who knows what the 150 wet shot will drop my times to... by the time you put this 600hp engine together, it wont even be worth it to drive because gas will cost you $4.00/gallon, if not more if u need to run race gas to bring the octane up

Yea but I'm not worried about gas mileage, thats what I have the V6 for(and why I'm not starting till its done)

easier goal is to focus on a 1/4 mile # and try to get there rather then a h/p number. you can put down 600 to the wheels and get beat by someone pushing 500 if your car isnt prepped right. unless your just going for bragging rights.. which is ghey

exactly.

BUBBA! BUBBA!
HE'S DA MAN!
IF HE CAN'T GET 600 HP,
NO ONE CAN!

BRICKA! BRACKA!
FIRECRACKA!
SIS! BOOM! BAH!
600 HP! 600 HP!
RAH! RAH! RAH!

Bubba, ill be brief, and thruthful on this part. your young, youve only witness about 220-250hp in your life. first off, for someone who hasent driven 600hp realize this, thats alot of hp to try to control, you may think you can handle it, but there are many people out there who thought the same thing and were wrong, look at hulks so with that Supra. you need to slowely add things onto your car, and get adjusted to the improvement overtime so by the time you will get even at 425hp youll be more comfortable and not make more mistakes. anybody says they can drive a car, but its when you actually know how to counter act the tendencies of the car when it has such an amount of power such as that. Secondly, do you remember the dealings wiht your truck when you tried to burnout infront of Advance Auto Parts and you snapped your U-joints? well your truck was 20+ years old and only had maybe 210 hp, so think of your car being 20+ years old, having 3 times the amount of power going to everything, everything will need to be replaced to handle something like that. So after you spend countless amounts of money on your engine, now you gotta buy a Transmission and a stall converter to withstand that, a strong enough driveshaft, and either a 12 bolt or a 9 bolt with comes over 1500-2000 dollars alone depending on which rear you want. then the gears, and then you gotta upgrade the supsension, and the body has to be stiffen up to take the twisting of the forces, also probably a rollcage, and a special fuel system. Your young, and the moneys not coming in fast enough to be able to buy all that and be able to maintain a car such as that. the fuel alone would have you gasping for air for how much it would be. plus you say you dont want to open the fron twice, well if your goign N/A then S/C, then you gotta open the whole engine up twice, stick with what you want and go with it. also most of the time you wont see 383's being sold wiht no more then 425-500 hp, because it begines to reach its limit for the budget builder, now your looking at NASCAR products needed, and research so the parts work correctly, and everything flows right. its too much money to put in that thing. if you really want to do anyhting, which I kno anybody who gives you this advice you ignore, just like always when I tell you things, you tend to have selective hearing, so I will tell you the best options for the money in your pocket that you have, and for what your car can handle at the moment. either go on eBay, get a set of 2.02 and 1.60 heads that have already been worked on that come off of modified cars and such, pick those up for around 300-500 bucks a pair, which is a great deal, then get a nice cam and intake, and drive around with that until you get used to it and you have more money, then go from there. Or option 2, have your spare block sent out, and have it decked and such and buy the Holley systemax set which is 3000 bucks, which isnt bad, and go from there. you wont attain the 425 they say without some decent work done to the block, so you might be around 375-400 hp, and try it, you might say whoa thats enough for me right there, or you might want more, but gradually ween yourself into high horsepower, cause it gets very unforgiving when in the 500+ hp catagory, hell some peopel cant even handle 300+hp. so if theres any good advice that has been said on this thread, buy the damn holley system and go form there.

Are there any cliffnotes to the post above. I can't read all that at this hour :lol:

wow jeff way to repeat what the last 4 pages say...STFU.

I know, but im giving you your options that fit your budget, not $1000 valve train ideas. just buy the holley and be happy.

If you look back a few threads I was going to do that in the 1st place, but after i looked around its really not the best option. If I do anything like that it will be the parts I listed only with a different cam. Still gonna put the TKO and 12 bolt in it. BUT after doing some work under the car yesterday. I might not even use it. the floor pans are damn near gone both rear quarters are rotted away the panhard mounts are severely rusted, the suspension needs to be redone, and all the bushings are shot. So either I'll do a resto on it or I'll pull the drive train and buy a roller.

...a third gen resto is not worth it...youll end up spending enough money to by 4 3rd gens, or for a nice 4th gen V8. just junk the whole thing except the carb and intake.

hes saying it for your benefit. so you stfu.

Thank you wayfast, see even wayfast has common sense and would listen to advice when given.

and thats my point exactly, everyone is saying the same thing, im just joining in, cause eventually this will build up enough for you to might go, hey I think they are giving me good advice, maybe I should use it.

V8 in the 4th gen, one project, done and over with.

Bubba, go pick up a spring issue of hot rod, they have the scoop of how to build a 615 hp 383, N/A! Sounds like what your looking for, parts and info. The total build was around 9 grand.

I seen that...stol...errr, purchased a copy from advance auto

After reading all this I never once saw the concern about what you are going to do with the rest of the car, Suspension, rear end, BRAKES ( you need those to stop once you get going ) Nice meaty tires, A roll cage for your safety if you plan on letting 600 +hp rip down the drag. I think you best bet is to ask CALL911 every single thing he has done to his 383 Procharged 614hp motor. Right there is the man that will tell you how he set his car up and how much he spent. Once you build a N/A motor you are going to want that procharger and you will be **** out of luck because your motor will have to much compression. Get the same setup as CALL911 and you will have a good car. I love that setup just watch the video of his car in the Multi media section once you hear that cam you will wet your pants and no one will have to post in this thread again because you will have your answer. He couldnt have made that movie at a better time.

I came back to edit this to make this easier so you dont get lost looking for the video and if click CALL911 on streetfire in blue under the video he has the same movie without the music so you can really hear the car.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/f...fa01642d75.htm