If you aren't pulling the head I would try and check cylinder leak down on that cylinder to make sure that valve never contacted the piston. .

http://image4.jcwstatics.com/product...8611G_SW_1.jpg
It's a Purolator. I don't even put Frams on my saturn. And I'll clean the engine bay once I fix the leak. There is simply too much on the to-do list to worry about my engine bay cleanliness. :)

I'll look into that. I've never messed with a dial indicator before, but after looking quickly, if they can't be rented, they aren't expensive at all. I found another method on a GH High Tech article using a pushrod length checker and caliper which I already have on order :)

Good idea. I'll do that.

Surely you know about SureGrip

Hey guys-

I need a bit of help. I removed the valve covers again today and I found all the broken pieces of that rocker. I had to remove the two rockers (the springs appeared to be fully extended) to get to the broken piece but I was able to reassemble the rocker with the broken piece so I am confident that I got, at least, all the large pieces together.

Anyway, I also now have the borescope which I purchased, but I don't know where to stick it to check the lifter. The pushrod seems fine (and its a 7.400 btw) as far as I can tell, but I don't really think the borescope I bought can fit into the hole for the pushrod. Am I going to have to remove a valve spring? I have never done that before. What should I do?

Thanks again guys :)

You need to look into the hole in the head where the pushrod travels through. Lifter is directly down in that hole about 4 3/4 inches below that opening.

see lifter in hole?

Can I just peek in, or do I need a borescope?

i just took that pic with my Lg smartphone.
need to use bright light and should be able to see retaining clip.

you want to make sure retaing clip is still seated properly...see pic below.

Curt-

Thanks for taking the time to get and post that picture for me. So, if that retaining clip is there, and seated properly, I'm good to go?

yup!

Awesome! Thanks again for your help! I think I still have your number by the way, next time I'm in Barnegat, I'd like to swing by your garage if you are working on your car to shoot the **** and see the build in person.

No problem Jake, Anytime!!!

One more problem (I actually don't know that for a fact, but I sure hope it is smooth sailing after this). The Yella Terras were stud mounted, while the OEMs are pedestal mount. I recall reading that the springs need to be fully extended before replacing the rockers. I can't do that though because I need the entire 8 rockers on each bank to be removed before I can put the pedestal down. What do I do? Is there any harm in just replacing them all at once, even if some of the springs are compressed? Will I have to retorque them after I spin the motor to get them such that the valves are closed?

Edit: Nevermind, misread the instructions on LS1Howto. Got it.

Finally got around to removing the intake.

Yuck!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I...220_104059.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...220_111318.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I...220_111323.jpg
And lastly, the intake:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3...220_112127.jpg
There was some gas accumulated by the injector, and because of that damage to the composite pictured above, I am going to err on the side of caution and replace the intake.

I got the car running yesterday. The valvetrain is SUBSTANTIALLY quieter. I mean, the ticking of the valvetrain could be heard in the car over the exhaust, and is now completely gone. There was definitely something wrong before, but whatever it was, it is gone now.

In other news, it all has to come back apart. Buttoning it back on, I misspoke and told my cousin to torque the valve cover bolts to the same torque as the rockers; 22ft/lbs. He ended up snapping the first one. Not his fault, completely mine. Wasn't paying attention when he asked. I tried drilling out the middle of the broken bolt and using a screw extractor, and naturally made it worse. I just left that screw undone and plugged up the hole in the valve cover with the broken bolt and some glue. I'm going to need new heads. It is what it is. For now, the car runs, but I can't really drive it with the hole being covered up with only glue.

Anyway, thanks for all the help guys. I obviously couldn't have done it without you guys. I'm going to order new heads soon (probably going for some milled, ported AIs) and have the car running before the end of next month, hopefully.

im glad you finally figured it out