also if the low oild light mounting location is high it would trip the light prematurely. Expect to lose a little oil during break in

that is what i was thinking, Im going to drain the oil out once the car gets done at tronix here in barnegat.... and i'll check to see how much oil i drain from it. It should fill just about 6 quarts up.

Got the car back from tronix had a switch plate i ordered from emblempros installed...looks pretty clean i guess. Also drove the car over to tronix this morning, and the low oil light was on, picked it up.... low oil light is off. Weird.

nice

Apparently a common problem with high capacity pans is overfilling and aeration of oil.

I just posted in the classifieds section that I'm in need of a a/c compressor for this car. If anyone has one laying around please let know....I may need to buy it.

So I had my check engine light, light up on me the other day, scanned it. the codes that come up where a tps code and vss code. I'm not sure how i go about fixing the throttle position senor nor the vehicle speed sensor. anyone have any ideas. Also i was wondering about picking up a canton high flow fuel filter ( summit # CTR-25-909) also thinking about picking up a holly adjustable fuel pressure regulator from hawksthirdgen. I have 42lb injectors as well a racetronix 255lph fuel pump, just dont want this motor running lean, I reached out for chad over at Golen to clarify how much pressure should be at the rails, just waiting for an e-mail back.

BillyT the aeration on these canton oil pans from what i hear is terrible some guys have had this same problem and other have had no problems - looks like im not one of those guys

Leave the stock fpr, the aftermarket ones are notorious for causing issues and failing. What tps code and vss code? Post the numbers. Sometimes you have to slot the tps mounting holes so you can calibrate it for the throttle body. Most seem to agree .67 with the throttle body closed is right and 4.5 volts all the way open gives you WOT (Might be just 4 volts). Any old fuel filter will work in my opinion, I just use a wix piece. Really if you want to keep your air/fuel ratio in check, you should install a wideband o2 sensor and gauge.

+1 on NOT getting any aftermarket fuel reg unless you are cheating with smaller injectors.

Ironic.
http://www.golenengineservice.com/do.../Adj%20TPS.pdf

Ok no fuel regulator, thanks guys im not going to touch the filter either. I stupidity did not wright the codes down. Im going to wait for the light to come on again and ill post up the codes. I'll see check the volts on the sensor, this thing needs more than a mail in tune, i have to get it on a dyno to really get it down. Thanks again guys.

Ok so here are some of the issues I'm having, for starters my ASR light is on, ABS light is on, check engine light is back on after clearing the codes, PO. 100 MAf sensor, PO.135 O2 sensor B1.S1, PO.155 O2 sensor B2.S1. The issues with the abs and asr lights have been on prior to the rear change. The car goes to tunetime in lakewood next tuesday, hopefully i can sort through these codes and get rid of the bugs im running into

Was the car a traction control 4channel rear in stock form?

It was and still is

Well no, since you are running a non ASR throttle cable now, you removed the traction control motor, so you will throw ABS and ASR lights now. You can either wire the traction control motor back in and hide it somewhere, that may work to get the lights off, but odds are you will just either need to pull the bulbs or ignore em.

Or, get a 3 channel ABS system, plumb that in and it should work in theory then. Tricky part would be the 4chan rear when you need the center sensor of a 3chan rear.

Ok how difficult is it to pull the bulbs

Not bad, just gotta start removing dash pieces. The lower trim where your knees are, then the dash pad has to come up to expose 2 bolts so be extremely careful as they like to self-explode upon the thought of being removed, after the trim is out there are 4 bolts holding the cluster in, unplug it and unscrew the back plastic cover, find the bulbs you want out and remove. I use a small flashlight and shine it into the area when I remove a bulb to verify its the correct one I need out.

I'm wondering if where i placed my O2 sensors if thats why im throwing codes on them. As you can see they are about 2 feet back from where they should be

Maybe a foot and half

As long as the flange seals are perfect, you should not have an issue, but, why did you install them so far back? They should be right in the collectors.

I know, these headers didnt have O2 bungs in them, and my buddy who did all the welding on this project suggested about putting them there, so now here i am...dont get me wrong the car is running pretty well with very little issues, but I'd rather have no issues. Also next tuesday it goes to tunetime in lakewood anyone want to meet me there while its getting tuned and doing some pulls.

FWIW O2 sensors need to be at a particular temperature to operate correctly. Too far downstream makes them too cold, too far upstream is too hot. This is why some (all?) long tube headers are "illegal".

But a 94+ should be a heated 02 sensor no? The tuner will tell you if they are acting sluggishly or are fine, but that gasket seal between the engine and 02 worries me. Later on down the road if they leak a little you could have some weird 02 readings etc.

You are correct, I misspoke. It probably has to do with EGT then. Either way, they need to be in the proper environment to work properly. Heated sensor or not, you can't move it too far from the original heat source.

well it might be time to redrill and put the sensors in the collectors

Did you use 02 extensions or wire in the added length?

yup, got the extensions from WS6store