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I'm interested in your LT1 style T56 if you decided to sell it
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So, is that a negative on the powerglide shens?
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A few more updates with a general game plan.
Trans removal: - Plan is to remove the trans/bell/clutch from the car this Saturday at the house. - If nothing else looks screwed up that will cost me an additional arm/leg, then all aboard the wallet destroying train next week when I order all the things. Part Selection: - The T56 big boy will be the trans of choice with the stronger 9310 gear set. I plan on going with a slightly shorter 5th gear so if I ever decide to do another 1/4+ event, I will actually be able to see reasonable RPM/power in 5th. 6th will remain the same to maintain a nice highway cruising RPM. I'm told this trans will hold 1,200hp. I may splurge a bit and have them powdercoat the case. The current fluid pump system will be maintained. - I spoke to a few clutch companies and I'm pretty set on a Monster LT1-S triple organic disc setup. The cost will be comparable to most any other reputable clutch plus they have done a few unicorn high powered LTx cars. The clutch should hold 1,000hp and drive similar to stock. One added benefit is they can make the slave hydraulic line length to my needs. The alternative would be replacing the master to slave line with a new one from Tick since the LS version is longer. The fitting style will still need to be converted though but this will be much less a PITA vs replacement of the line...much cheaper too. - The driveshaft will likely need to be shortened and I will need a new yoke for the trans output. My current trans used a 30 spline output, this one will be a 31. A billet piece will get the nod. - Next is a new bellhousing from QuickTime to convert the LS style trans to my archaic engine. So that's the current plan. Since no core is needed for the trans, I'm told it would be about 2-3 weeks to build. I asked if I could visit the shop and see that process in action but I'm not sure if schedules will align. Lastly, what does someone upgrade while their car isn't really driveable? The head unit of course! I swapped out the rock solid Alpine unit I had in and tossed in a Pioneer 4100NEX. This came from my wife's sold Lexus so rather than get low balled on it during resale, I got this into the firebird for less than $30 in parts. I reused the Axxess steering wheel control box which gave me some heartache. Turned out the wiring connector for it had the wire pinned in the wrong slot. Repinned and viola, all worked perfectly. It's strange but I'd say the sound is well improved as well. This head unit does Android Auto and a few other tricks. The look is much cleaner as well. Dare I say there was a bit of weight savings too! http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...pstraouhqa.jpg |
I like that list of parts and love that I don't see the bill!
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If there is1 thing im sure of, its that your going to spend the extra coin to cherry the trans.
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whew, that sounds like a good (but expensive) trans setup. hopefully there isnt too much internal damage. a shortened 5th gear sounds like a good plan. keep us updated!
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I don't think the current trans is hurt that bad. I expect maybe a shift fork and some synchro replacement will be the main items. I doubt the major hard parts are damaged but we will see once I dissect it. |
I love the parts list as well.
So wait monster makes a clutch for our cars? That's nice to know. Cheaper to just get a new driveshaft or it's reasonable to change it up like that? |
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As for driveshaft, once we measure it all and see if a change is needed, I will see what a new one costs vs shortening the one I have. Most folks who have a S60 already have a new shaft since they need it so I'm not sure how well it would resell. |
So this weekend was generally productive. On Saturday. the car was put in the air to fix the bent drivers side LCA relocation bracket, realign the rear and remove the trans. Maybe the clutch and bellhousing depending on time.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...psxh92djnw.jpg Rear LCA relocation bracket out. I'd say that was a bit bent. I replaced both sides just to make sure everything was in good order. Measured, measured and measured so everything should be nice, straight and centered. Took me what felt like forever but I'm relieved that's all that got wrecked with the suspension. It was also a good reminder to go through a nut/bolt check. I noticed a few attachment points to be not loose but not tight either. http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...pswysrc2gy.jpg http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...psaufbmtmd.jpg Next was the trans. No real progress pics here. Just out! Everything went pretty smoothly, almost as if it's been done before.... I'm happy with myself for not laying down a thick bead of RTV for the shifter base plate. It popped off pretty nicely. I used an assortment of lengthy extensions to grab the top bolts on the trans. Overall, time consuming but not horrendous. I had it out in about 2.5-3hrs. Again, really pleased I went with quick disconnects for the trans fluid lines. I think maybe a couple drops trickled out on the initial yank but that was it. I was pretty surprised to notice the Y-pipe I painted with high temp black paint a couple seasons ago has returned to it's natural color. Everything was cleaned and prepped so am I to assume heat burned it off? I may wrap the pope later on. As for the trans, there is not much to look at but the input shaft tip looked perfect but lateral slop in the input felt def "out of spec". Pictured below - That could be trans fluid or blood.... My hands must be baby soft as I managed to remove quick a bit of skin even with gloves on. http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...pszx5uq8vc.jpg New radio still looks good! http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...psvx9ouzna.jpg The last schlepping of the trans off the trans jack to the dolly properly tired me out so I was done for the day. I honestly couldn't believe how filthy. I threw out my shirt and took a very long shower. Sunday arrived and it was time to get the bell and clutch out. Everything was going well until I hit the two upper bolts on both sides of the tunnel. I recall the install happening with the engine in the car but I'm not quite sure how we did it. No tool I had would get to the allen head bolts. Sockets and even an allen wrench were too long. I tried a bit of prying to angle the engine back to get something on but no luck. Ginger anger ensued. Out came the cutoff wheel (thanks Adam) and I shorted both the allen wrench and the socket with the allen. I didn't bother measuring and just hacked away. To my surprise, my modified tools were able to get the job done and out came the bell. Next came the clutch. Feeling the end of the effort ahead, this thankfully went super smooth. My cordless impact (Thanks again Adam) made quick work of the flywheel bolts and it was done. The clutch looks worse than it really is. The metal surfaces can be cleaned up and the discs show a good amount of material remaining. I showed my Dad and immediately blamed him for the hot spots likely caused during his 1.4x 60' pass :). http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...psvixenfaz.jpg http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...pspnkfjyw6.jpg http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...psct6oule5.jpg http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...pshbbujj5w.jpg http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...pslvttfynw.jpg http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...pslspcgvz9.jpg So that's it for now. The clutch and bell are for sale. Once I see what's up with the current trans, that will be for sale as well. Time to order new parts..... |
I have 25ft of DEI wrap in the garage I am not using if you wan to wrap the Y
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Excellent work, sirs.
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Good stuff. Kudos for tackling this on your back! You're a better man than me... I held off until I had access to a lift :lol: Hopefully this motivation means you won't miss too much of the season.
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