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Found the fuel problem...
After cutting the panel and loosening the O-ring for the pump assembly me and Alex pulled it up and came across this..
http://inlinethumb04.webshots.com/26...600x600Q85.jpg |
So the pump was loose?
(good job not blowing the car up :) ) |
wow...zip tied in there. nice
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I dont like the method of cutting the floor pan to get to the pumo but hey to each his own. At least you found your problem now since you got the pump out get a walbro pump. Also nice wire nuts.
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You cut the floor? You ****in idiot. Could of asked me and I would have came up and changed it out for ya in about 3-4 hours.
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We even have nice hinged & sealed covers over them. |
what Alex said, I already dropped the rear and exhaust to put in a pump 2 years ago..F-that. Plus, now my exhaust is welded all the way up to the Y-pipe. We put fittings on each gas line and I have metal to make a door and seal it. There is no problem with an access panel whatsoever.
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Having an access panel is good, I plan on having one in my 67. The point being made is not having a panel, it is cutting it with the tank in place. Because one bad spark = boom. All you need is some gasoline vapors, like from the vent line or a bad sender gasket, and a spark. God forbid you hit a line or the tank. There are lots of ways to do things, some of them are better then others. That is all that is being said. It's akin to working under a car held up by a floor jack. Sure it nmight hold, but why test it?
Glad you got it fixed Ted, very cool. |
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I hear you. But you can't be careful about what you can't see. Bad vent hose, bad sender gasket, etc.
I think enough voices have been heard here so if someone sees this in the future they might realize cutting the floor with thte tank in is not the preferred method. |
When I had the tank out last time I replaced all my lines and gaskets etc so the chance of one leaking was minimal, but I see your point about the unseen things and stuff. I'm just really happy the car is fixed. I'll snap pics tomorrow of the fittings and of the "door" when I make it.
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Nice job! Now, git over here and fix my T-Type's fuel probs! :nod:
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So the pump was just loose?
I don't know anything about in tank pump setups, so I'm not sure what's wrong by looking at that pic. - Justin |
you might wanna change that strainer while your at it, and unfortunately ive seen a few people do the ol cut above the tank trick, I know it minimizes the time greatly, but that is dangerous, and not only that, but it shows you tend to ghetto rig things, I.E. those wingnuts, I mean come on, a little sodering, and shrink wrap and youd be fine, a bad spark from those wing nuts and kablooie!!! Ive found out in life weither it woudl take you 20 minutes to do something or 20 hours, the outcome look and performance wise is worth the 20 hours anyday. if you are goign to put and access door ( which would be nice to have incase this happens again) you should work with the tank partially dropped so you can put a hing on it and stuff.
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Justin, we pulled the pump assembly out and the pump was disconnected from the main line. |
It isn't worth my time to even write a respons about how that is a hack... *grumbles about spending too much money on AN stuff for my fuel system to make sure it doesnt leak and safe!*
Anyways, the sending unit is screwed up. Its missing a part at athe bottom that holds the fuel pump in place. When I get home I have a pic of mine and I'll show ya what I mean. |
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Ted knows the way that I feel about cutting a hole in the floor and using brass compression fittings for fuel from previous encounters with this. Also if ya look I did tell him where the problem lies in why the fuel pump slipped of the feed line.
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Brass compression fittings should be just fine in a TPI setup, it's only 50ish psi. Houses run more than that in their plumbing systems with the same type of fittings. In fact, Dorman supplies them with their fuel line repair kits. If they weren't safe to use, wouldn't Dorman have a huge liability on their hands by supplying them for techs to install with their parts?
BTW, I'm only stating this because I used the Dorman lines/compression fittings when we did my TPI swap many miles ago, and they're all just fine. I haven't had a problem with 'em. |
Maybe not ideal, but the compression fittings are probably ok in that app. Not for brakes, the PSI is too high. Just throwing that out there.
Moving to engine section for later reference... |
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This same thing was discussed on thirgen.org with over 100 posts of people fighting back and forth about it but here are some pics of the bad and the pretty good. There is a post about it were someone did it and there rear hatch area started to buckle before of the access cut into the floor.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tp...cces-done.html good http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/at...e-img_0951.jpg bad http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/at...e-dscn1217.jpg |
The Zip tie that was their originally is what came with the kit.
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