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STILL OVERHEATING
Hey guys I got a fan shroud on the car new fan new water pump new 180 thermostat and the car was sitting at 225 when I was having it fixed/tuned today. When I drove it down the street about 2 miles home it got to 245 im 50% positive i may have yet again blown headgaskets! WTF!!
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do you have the air dam thats under the car? maybe you need a dual fan setup to cool that baby off, oe you have a big ole air pocket somewhere...i think you are the first person i have ever heard of with this many head gasket issues
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Let me get this straight. It got to 255 idling while you tuned it?
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it could be a cracked block
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Wouldnt the cracked block be visible when I tore this motor all apart to redo it?
Yes it got to 230 while tuning it and hit 245 when I drove it down the street about 2 miles to get home. I realized it was at 245 so I said **** put it in neutral and cruised into a parking spot near my house at a bank, later taking it home. I dont know if its a blown headgasket cuz the carb is running rich and it looks grey and its not coming out untill you give it some gas, its open headers right now too. |
Big questions-
Where did you get this carb/how old is it? What did you do before you bolted it on? |
hollow out the thermostat, then no more problems
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Cause then you will always have things to fix later on! Der!
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bro its a camaro! you cant actually FIX it, hence why rigging it is the only LOGICAL solution...
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used 4160 carb oss smallblockposse I found it to be in bad shape and bought a renew kit and redid everything with blue gaskets new diaphrams & power valves and slightly smaller jets. new needles and seats too, but I did find that the shaft on the baseplate for the secondaries is slightly bent causing it to leak onto the intake but thats another problem in its self.
What do you mean " what did you do before you bolted it on"? I put a new cam intake heads lifters springs and pushrods and went form a 600 edelbrock to using this carb for the first time. Carb runs rich as hell and has problems(I think its junk) and its overheating. Could the new thermostat have already gone bad. |
Do a leakdown test on the motor.
What type of headgasket did you use? Also what kind of bolts/torque sequence did you use? If you reused stock bolts, they are TTY... |
TTY?
Reused headbolts, torqued then to somewhere around 68 I think(spec was between 62-70 so I went to the high side to compensate for used bolts) used the correct torque pattern I found online. I used a .15 felpro steel shim headgasket too, with gasinish or w.e its called. |
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Head bolts are TTY... or Torque To Yeild. Meaning they can and should only be used once after torqued down due to them streching. May be your issue right there with a HG lifting... |
SBC head bolts are TTY?
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Did you just replace the parts or did you dip it to clean out the varnish and **** from all of the ports and bleeds? What jet size are you running? |
Is the water circulating? Start engine cold when engine temp reaches 180* the thermostat should open. To check feel the upper rad hose when temp reaches 180* it should get hot if not you could have air in the system and will have to bleed. What temp is your fan turning on at?
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TTY bolts didn't exist at the time his engine originally went together, and you'd have a tough time finding TTY bolts for a regular 1st gen SBC even today. There's no problem re-using conventional head bolts as long as they weren't overtorqued or otherwise damaged. |
Under the impression of my engine builder that all head bolts are TTY. Cheap insurance anyway.
I know on my 87 Motors they are... |
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TTY suck. You gotta break out the torque/angle nonsense. Why not just use regular ARP heads or studs? And I think early LT1s came with TTY but it was never verified so most just say replace em.
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But to test that simply, just see if your losing antifreeze.
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Not losing anti freeze, upper hose stayed ice cold after 20 minutes of idle/full throttle tuning. Makes me think...thermostat gone bad already? Im looking around for a new radiator just to be on the safe side, I mean I replaced EVERYTHING else in the cooling system so I might as well replace the rad too.
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well boil some water and drop the thermostat in it, should pop open.
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