Chasis Overhaul on my 94 Z28
 

:-P So I'm going to be installing all new components in the chasis front and rear. 8-). I'm looking to retain the stock feel as I'm not interested in a poly feel. So I've gotten whatever GM parts I was able to get thru my local Chevy dealer, and the rest are U.S.A. made Moog parts. Here's what I've purchased so far just after replacing all fuel and all brake lines:
1. Bilstein Tuned Shock and Spring kit
2. Rear Spring Pads
3. Lakewood Rear Control Arms
4. Moog Rear Sway Bar bushings
5. GM Rear Sway Bar stabilizer links
6. Lakewood Adj. Panhard Rod
7. Polyurethene Torque Arm Mount
8. GM Goodwrench Trans Mount
9. GM Goodwrench Front Stabilizer Links
10. GM Front Sway Bar Bushings
11. Moog Inner Tie Rods
12. Moog Outer Tie Rods
13. Moog Control Arm Bushings
14. Moog Ball Joints
15. Gm Goodwrench Fuel Pump
16. GM Goodwrench Sending Unit.

You should throw motor mounts into the mix if they have never been done.

You should use a polyeurethane transmission mount.

2nd that, i went thru about 5 rubber ones on my old 95z

x1000

I broke 2 stockers and the car has a catback, and isn't a race car.

what are "rear spring pads" ? I'm assuming the rubber isolators and not the metal perches that are welded to the rear housing, lol.

This. Broke rubber ones left and right before I switched...

My rubber one i had in my car held up pretty good with only a few bolt ons. I checked some forums awhile back when i did my build and some people dont like the poly tranny mouts cause it makes the car vibrate more or some crap. But for me i feel no difference cause my car is obnoxious anyway

The spring pads are rubber pads that are located above the rear springs. They wear out and should always be replaced, anytime you replace the rear springs. I've had the poly trans mount in other 4th gen F bodies and my exp has been that it causes vibration. I don't beat the Hell out of this car a whole lot, since I have 2 other 4th gen F bodies. Anyway, they are so easy to replace, I don't mind using rubber. Plus, mine is an A4, which doesn't put stress on the trans like a 6 speed would. For anyone interested in keeping their car/cars forever like myself, here's how to keep a super high mileage car riding "like new"...My chasis has 225k on her and because I've always used rubber, the chasis does not rattle even one iota. Not a single squeak. I replace the shocks and springs every 50k as well. This keeps the chasis from getting beat up. (It also doesn't hurt to tighten all the dash screws once a year as well). I already have new motor mounts that went in a couple months ago. I know a lot of guys like polyurethene, but it is really intended for racing applications. I had no choice but to buy a poly torque arm mount. Couldn't find rubber. This is my daily driver and poly mounts I feel ride harsh since they aren't designed for a comfort ride. Although I do have some basic performance mods, such as Long tube headers, 3 in from the headers to the muffler with 2 1/2 outlets, stage 2 chip, CAI, roller rockers with the lt4 rocker module and a few other tricks, the chasis rides quiet and comfortable which is exactly how I want it. I also found a like new set of original wheels for $100. I'll be putting the original Michillan Pilot Sport tires on them in the spring. More updates to come.

Sounds like an interesting car, and 225k on an LT1 car? Awesome!

You should make a intro thread and toss some pics up 8-)

Mezzy - my car is an A4 and has broken the stock mounts twice that I mentioned early. My poly trans mount (only poly in the car) does not cause the car to rattle, neither do the sfc's. It does not ride harsh at all.

That's good to hear because if I need another one, ill try it since you seem sure. Btw, another water pump went. I got one from Advanced Auto because the bolt on plates in the back last longer than the OEM design and they're the only place I could find that sold that style. I'm getting tired of replacing water pumps every 2 years. I'm gonna just do an LS1 swap if another one fails within the next 4 years.

I don't know how to upload pics or i would

Do yoy guys ever meet up to hang and show your cars?

I'm beginning to get tired of these ****** LT1s. I haven't wanted to admit their prone to failure repeatedly, but now I am a victim of this inferior design after many many years of this crap. I feel sorry for all other LT1 owners as these engines just suck for reliability. I'm definitely doing a nice clean LS swap asap. This crap is over for me. I'm going to host a party and celebrate the death of an LT1 and the rebirth of an LS1. That's a promise.

my lt1s got 146k, no ptoblems

Most of the time I don't have any problems either. But replacing a water pump every 2 years plus an optispark is not the way a car is supposed to run. I'm just not going to deal with this issue anymore. I'm doing a swap. Now I see why GM ditched this design after only a few years. The LS series is still going strong since 1997, and has become the most popular engine for builds and new aftermarket components. It's considered the best GM V8 design since the original 350 was designed over 60 years ago. This reverse flow crap is for the birds. Most owners know exactly what I'm talking about if you own the car long enough. And I only drive mine 5k miles a year. So this pump has 10k on it. That's unacceptable. My other 2 LS cars give me absolutely no issues whatsoever.

Haha i feel ya with the motor. I got poly all round and to be honest i dont feel any difference beside it handling better

Just get an electric waterpump...

ive had 2 LS1 cars and both needed water pumps at 60-80k miles
ive had 3 LT1 cars all with WELL over 100k, and only one needed a water pump

u could argue all day, maybe u got a crappy aftermarket replacement?

Sounds like it to me.

What keeps failing on the pump? Lots of guys will either seal the weep hole on the bottom or install a fitting and run a length of hose past the opti so you can still see it weep. I have an electric and its been good to me for a couple years now.

Aftermarket WPs are hit or miss. All of them. Advance, NAPA, AZ, etc.

The "rule of thumb" is AC Delco or electric WP, and AC Delco or MSD opti. Other brands are not as good.

Thanks. I went with an advanced water pump because I was told the bolt on plate is the better style. My LS cars have never given me a problem. I hope this pump lasts longer then 10k miles this time. We'll see. As far as the poly bushings go, I have heard so many mixed reviews, I am afraid to create a rattlebox,so I go with what I know works. Do you have every single piece poly? Including control arm bushings?. I'm thenking if you did every single peice in poly, it would ride harder. I could be wrong.

I'm going to buy a BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod. Classic Industries has if for $114. That's the last piece I need.

Thanks for all the inquires. At least I'm not alone

How do I post pics of my build?

rear control arm question
 

I bought a set of rear control arms by Lakewood. I see the BMR arms are adjustable. I'm installing a set of Eibach springs that will lower the car a little but no lore than an inch. How do I know if the non adjustable arms I bought will work? How do i determine if I need the adjustable ones? Thanks guys

When you put the springs in you will know other than that...search people with the same springs?

When my car was lowered on eibach pro's I had non adjustable aftermarket lca's and had no problems...