Please help 96 T56 issue
 

I bought my car a few months ago from the original owner with 90k on it. The clutch is the original also. There was some chatter in first and maybe second. The other day it was getting hard at times to get in gear and as I lift my foot off the clutch there would be a metal clack noise as It engaged the gear and as I pulled in my driveway I could not get it into any gear. I can slam it into first only. With the car off it goes through the gears just fine. I noticed some fluid under the slave cylinder so I replaced it and its no better. I see the rod is not engaging far enough into the fork to break the new plastic straps on the new slave cylinder. Is my clutch broken or the fork or even the throwout bearing. Sorry I am new to manual world.

Did you bleed your new slave properly?

If so, Sounds like your clutch is probably done. If you can drive the car you can just shift without a clutch and see how it feels (rpm match)

Yes at first I tried to bleed it with the allen screw on the new cylinder but it was not building pressure. I took it off and pumped it by hand untill no more bubbles were showing up in the master. Was i correct?

Has the clutch itself ever been replaced or just the slave?

My money is on a bad clutch.

If the piston for the slave is not able to break the plastic, then you have a hydraulic issue. It should snap easily on the first press of the clutch after the slave was replaced and bled completely. Pumping the slave by hand is the right method but you need to make sure all of the bubbles are out of it. Your hand will likely start to hurt once the pressure builds in the slave. If it was easy to press the rod back in each time, again, you have a hydraulic issue which could mean either you need to bleed it more or your master may be toast.

I agree with Brian. Clearly a hydraulic issue and most likely, air still in the system. How does the pedal feel? Most of the time I do master and slave together and prefer to get pre-bled units, if possible. Clutch hydraulics are much more difficult to bleed compared to your brakes.

I pumped all the air out and the clutch pedal feels fine......???

Yes it is the original clutch. Would the clutch being stuck engaged give me this issue? This is what I'm thinking is going on. Im leaning towards buying the napa NCF 1104134 for the bang for the buck. I hope this is not a Luk clutch with a napa name on it as there are really bad reviews online.

Is your slave able to break the plastic strap?

Yeah, if the slave isn't breaking the strap then it is not fully disengaging the clutch giving you driveability issues. Are you sure its the correct slave? The pedal has good, even pressure throughout the travel?

No. There is great pedal feel. If the clutch is stuck or the fork is broken the slave rod may not be able to extend yet. Im spitballing here. I really dont think its the hydro as I was getting metal noises prior

So is the slave rod touching the fork? If it's not and you cant break the strap, hydraulics are still an issue. The clutch, throw out bearing or fork may still be toast but if you can't break that strap, a new clutch won't fix that issue. You can have some air in the system and good pedal feel. The master may not be having a good day so I would really make sure your hydraulics are in proper order, whether you go for a new clutch or not. The metal noises could be many things.

Ok so how can I check the master

Sorry for sounding like im doubting you. Im new to this so I like to narrow things down on here. After researching the symptoms you are probably right about the master. Im going to order one as soon as I can figure out which one fits lol Web sited are contradicting each other with doorman cm 350014 and cm350089. I have a 96 formula

I rarely see the masters go bad on our cars. Don't go throwing parts at it just yet. I'd get a mightvac and do an easypeasy bleed. This is what I did when my slave blew out.
http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm

Don't throw parts at it? Like a clutch?

:bertstare:

No worries. If you lost fluid and the reservoir ran dry, you could have very likely pumped a ton of air into the system. Meaning, failed slave, leaking fluid, master/reservoir run dry or got air in the system.

I would still try to bleed the master and then the slave again (it should hurt your hand to push the rod in/out) before buying a master. If you end up needing a master, I'm an AC Delco nuthugger (ACDELCO Part # 385488 {#19183018} Professional). This is from Rock Auto (sponsor) so make sure to use a coupon code.

well i said my money is on a bad clutch (metallic noise, etc. etc.) :nick:

like Brian said any air in the system will cause havoc in these cars. I had a fun time bleeding mine till I got that vacuum pump. then it was 3 seconds lol

Im going to try the vacuum way to bleed the air out first. Then go from there...

good call. report back let us know how it goes!

Sounds more like the hydraulics are not fully disengaging the clutch. rotating input shaft = funny noises

If the slave is old enough to have started leaking, the master is old enough to have its own issues. I always replace hydraulics together if unknown age. I always do them with a clutch too if unknown.

I tried the vacuum idea and it worked somewhat. The master must be shot. I ordered the complete sealed pre bled ac delco unit from amazon. I will try it as soon as it arrives fri or sat

I replaced the master and slave assembly. The problem still exists. I think its the transmission mount, I hear a thud as I burp the throttle. Sometimes it shifts fine, sometimes it does not after the noise. I pry up on the transmission and it moves an inch or 2. I'm going to go check it again, but will this give me these symptoms.

A bad trans mount won't cause the clutch not to work. I would definitely get the mount replaced regardless.