So, is monopoly monies sufficient?

:mrgreen:

Ok, thanks. Will keep it in mind.

AC Delete Fun
 

Its time to get rid of the huge ugly box in my engine bay.

from the start of this project i knew AC wasnt going to make its way into the car, so let the games begin.


Obviously the "book" way to do its to pull the dash out and remove it from the inside and then mount the plate from the inside. I, do not want to do that. But i will if absolutely needed. Ive seen a ton of pictures of ones that look like they are mounted from the outside though.

like so.

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...9353371540.jpg

Most of images are missing from those threads so i cant be sure how it was done, but from the looks of it and reading some of it im 95% sure they AC box was cut back to the firewall, a template was made and cut. and then it was bolted up to the firewall from the outside(i would image with some sort of bead of sealer on it as well)

That is what i want to do.

Im also not 100% dead set to have heat in the car, but from the looks of it all i really need is 2 heater hoses and a vacuum line to come threw the panel. Like this, seems simple enough.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ELETEPANEL.jpg

Anyone do it this way? or am i the only heathen whos giant hands dont like working with interior things?

Google is my friend
 

I quick hunt on the internet provided me results.

Looks like this grade A american did exacting what i want to do.

1.Trimmed it back to the firewall from the outside
(im very good at cutting things, you guys should know this by now)

2. Trimmed a path for the air to get to the blower motor, and then covered the cuts in bubble gum.

3. Cut out a a piece of metal and blocked it off from the outside.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/attachment...-11310-22-.jpg

http://ls1tech.com/forums/attachment...-11310-25-.jpg

Id like to do the same exact thing, except id like my template to look a bit more "refined." Maybe even let Jersey Mike spend 34 man hours polishing it

If memory serves me right, there are bolts on both the engine bay side and the dash side. The box is removed through the interior, so the dash must be removed.

I strongly advise against hax0rs & urge you to show a little restraint. Besides, think of the weight reduction! There are nice delete plates out there as well. I think Kohler has one.


*edit*
Peep size. #dotherightthing

Just do the hack. You can hammer the bitch off. Throw some nice looking self tappers through etc. It'll look fine man.

Go to Home Depot, buy the longest most aggressive tooth patterned sawzall blade and chop that bitch out.

I made my first delete plate out of plexiglass #safety

I would be making my own plate regardless of inside or outside mounting.

You only have 3 restraining moments on this built. Let me remind you this car still has door bars, bumper supports, a carpet, and non cut shock towers.

Cash in wisely.

I also second removing the dash and just ditching the whole system. The dash comes out pretty quickly. I've done two myself.

Proceed at will.

I fold this hand.

Shuddering at pulling dash pad without cracking it.

Pretty much. I know if I try to take it out and it cracks I'm going to lose motivation and just cut it off at the wall anyway

Call Paul, he's your guy!

Remove the dash. If you're making the delete plate yourself the cut edges and finish will be better hidden installing it from the inside. Just take your time lifting the dash pad, ls1 pads aren't that hard to remove. Keep heat for the defroster. The block off plate blocks the air passage to the blower, so you will need to cut a path and make a sheet metal block off to close the interior cut...or body filler like the pics you posted. I think I had a bunch of pics in an old thread here doing all this

Found it
http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showpos...4&postcount=49

I have his old hvac box.....no block off plate though.

I still vote smash and block. You can cover the ugly firewall nonsense!

Me: Do it right for this project
Also Me: Fire up that wiz wheel and get to it


https://muppetmindset.files.wordpres...mwtrailer5.png

A wizzy wheel is the right thing to do.....


https://media.giphy.com/media/FPt4fI9BvUOXu/giphy.gif

While looking threw my garage last night for intake bolts for jersey mike, i decided to remove the charcoal can and misc from tank.

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...psw4nszuzs.jpg

Just to make it easier i threw some tape on the ports.

Asking again to be sure, the ports that are taped with the Blue tape are to be blocked off, and the port taped with the light green tape is to be vented to atmosphere via a small vent valve air filter. Correct ?

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...psxqxju5ia.jpg

Why eliminate evap?

Green tape is over-pressure relief valve. Looks like its just a hose that runs off of that and points towards ground. Blue tape you can plug or loop, its evap ports. There is an additional port on the sending unit for evap. Plug or vent, your choice. Technically the green tape valve should relieve pressure from tank.

simply cus the car doesnt have any of the lines in it.

The previous owner had a cell in it.

Lets talk cruise control/Traction Control delete.

Is it as easy as just removing all the junk under the hood and getting a throttle cable from a non cruise car ? Not that im super crazy about cleaning up the engine bay, but its never going to be used. so i may as well toss it.

More or less, yeah.
Box is on the passenger side frame rail. New non-TCS cable is shorter. Attach all the things. Remove annoying bulb for TCS light in gauge cluster.

It would be a little obnoxious if you eliminated A/C but kept TCS/Cruise.

Nice. Wasnt sure if there was more to it than eliminate and get new cable. And im thinking tuner, or at least nishan, should be able to remove the signal for the light.


And yeah, i planned on scrapping the TCS/Cruise the whole time, but i just wanted to get everything in order before i was to rip it out and toss it only to find i needed something.