Pretty much any starter can be jumped if that is what you are saying. You can put power to the small wire and see if it turns over. That would tell you whether or not your starter is good I guess. I suggested a meter/light and start looking for where you do and don't have power.

Prob makes more sense to start there :lol:

I was thinking if you have power at coils, PCM and fuel pump, you can bump it over and it should catch/run

I have my buddy coming over with HP tuners to see if it’s a VATS issue can just over ride.

If it’s not I’ll get out the meter and get to testing.

Alright, so as some as you know it starts.

The fuel pump not kicking was VATS related, HP tuners took care of it.

However the starter would not kick. There is power at the start, power at the starter relay, but nothing to signal. I ended up getting it started by removing the starter relay and just jumping it. After it was started I did swap the starter relay with the ignition relay to see maybe the starter relay was bad. But with the ignition relay, which is a proven good relay by the car running, I still got nothing. So I need to figure out what the deal is... or just run a Toretto push button

Also, I noticed the cluster not getting info again. It lights up with the headlight switch, and the SES light works, but when keyed on to “hot” it doesn’t display battery voltage. But honestly I don’t recall if anything was reading while the car was running. I was to exited.

Congrats on first fire!

Pin 85 is your key on hot. Its a dark green wire coming from clutch safety/neutral safety switch.

Pin 86 is your ground. It is a yellow/black wire coming from the bcm. It is looking for the key pellet to internally ground a relay for starter enable. To bypass this feature, ground the yellow/black wire wherever da **** you want.

So Just ground out that wire coming from the BCM and I’ll be able to start w. Key?

I didn't say that. I said grounding the wire will bypass the bcm/theft deterrent ****. You still need power from the nss.

this calls for a remote thread !

Im learning a lot from this thread! I dont even have these problems, i feel blessed. Thanks!

So with the start situation "fixed", we have some more problems on the horizon

1. With 1 quart in the Converter, and dipstick tube wrestled in(order a new braided one bc didnt like how the stock one sat, im pretty sure its been on 4 different cars) i started to fill the trans. It took about 5qts before it started to spill out the tailshaft and the grommet were dip stick goes in. I see normal fill after service is 5qt, BUT this trans was torn down and had a shift kit and servo installed. Wouldn't that render it completely dry?

2. Nothing is reading on the cluster. Turn the cut off switch at the back on and the needles "sweep" or more like bounce around. Battery voltage does not need, nor does oil pressure or RPM. I dont recall if the SES light lit this time, but i know the odometer did not. But since i dont have an way to see if oil pressure is there, i havent let the car run for more than 5 seconds. The start up vid some of you seen was the longest is run so far.

Which leads me here...

3. Tested out the Str33t 0utlawz starter set up i now have. Car fired right up and ran for no more than 2 seconds before no lie, the biggest backfire i have ever heard from a NA motor. It shook the the saw dust from the ceiling. For the first fire, the car DID NOT have O2 sensors in the collectors. I didnt have the extender harnesses i needed, they showed yesterday so i installed them. So that was the first fire with O2s, and it sounded like a land mine.

Trans may be empty but you won't be able to force fluid up through it by just adding fluid via tube.

Run it, check level, add, repeat.

Mistake on the braided tube btw. They suck. Return it and get a nice OEM one.

Is it possible to get a OEM dipstick tube in while the engine & trans are in the car? The one i had, albeit old n prob bent in the wrong areas, gave a 1 hell of a fight.

Fuse for gauges is missing from fuse box.

https://memegenerator.net/img/images...n-retarded.jpg

https://2static.fjcdn.com/pictures/W...6a_6029994.jpg

At least it's easily fixed.

We have gauges.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/...77921afe_z.jpg

However problem 3 still alive and very very well

Check that o2 sensor wires are not crossed, MAF wires are good, did you tune for larger injectors?

Heres what i was doin in addition to not realizing Kohler's dinner was the 27th and not the 28th.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/...276ca5d3_z.jpg

From Left to right goes as followed

-Push button start arming switch
-Push button start
-Electric Water Pump
-Red Push button is line lock
-Red LED above LL button is to show Line lock is armed
-Line Line Arm

Ill double check i didnt cross the o2s, that is deff possible.

MAF wires should be fine, i bought that adapter harness for the 5 pin brandy new.

Yesh.

Just curious, but why is your EWP on a switch? Can't you program the computer to turn on/off the EWP? Or is there a reason you'd rather have it on a switch?

So i can turn it on on its own to cool quick in the pits or what not. It'll still go on like normal with the key

Brainstorming has lead me here.

The fuel pump primes when key is turned to hot and then shuts off.

Since i have the push button set up, ive just been turning the key to hot and trying to start it with the button. But since the fuel pump doesnt kick back on while the key is just in hot after it is primed, the car is starting to run on only the amount of fuel that was supplied via prime. Thus, big ol' kaboom backfires.

Unless... there is something that commands the fuel pump on while the car is cranking? i havent had the chance to check the fuel pressure gauge on the rail while cranking, but as you can see in the vid below, once the key is hot, it has pressure and then bleeds off. Only coming back when i cycle the key again.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4491/...ed266a82_z.jpgUntitled by mickey beggs, on Flickr

The ECM primes the pump on key on for ~5 seconds, unless you change it, then it will turn the pump on again once it sees crank signal. This is so if there is an accident situation and the engine stops, the pump shuts off so it doesn't pump fuel onto the ground until the key is shut off.

You could have the initial prime set to like 15 seconds so you have more time to hit the button for crank.

Your throttle cable is also falling off the cam arm on the TB, so you may not be seeing the correct throttle closed voltage

yeah i fixed that right after i took the vid, i havent tried to refire since then.

You never know.