You're probably right about the 3/8 hose being too small, I use a single 5/8 hose. I have a vacuum gauge in the car hooked up to the drivers side valve cover to monitor crankcase vacuum. I actually don't run a catch can, air is dumped right to outside of car but only during boost. That tank was used for my water injection, it's no longer in my car. I also mounted the air pump vertically because crankcase garbage was collecting inside of pump.

good info here and thanks for steering me in that direction.
When you say you mounted it vertically, I am imagining it on its side vertically, but also vertically with the inlet/outlet ports pointing towards the ground? Or differently?


I decided to find a larger size fitting (Dorman PCV Valve Elbow 47043) to replace the modified pcv valve idea I had planned on going with... and its basically an elbow that i can attach a 5/8" inside diameter rubber hose to and run it over to the catch can. I'll need to bring the 5/8" hose down to a 1/2 hose before it hits the -8an fitting at the can. In the can I will have the stainless steel scouring pad material to help knock the oil down before the flow is drawn out the other -8an at the top of the catch tank. Then it will be a short length of hose from 1/2' ID to 5/8" ID using an adapter because the inlet of the vacuum pump is 5/8. Thats the current plan


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- I plugged the breather in the top of the catch-tank cap so that its a sealed system.

- I ran a relay to power the pump with a 20 amp fuse and it is currently triggered off the ignition block fuse panel I built under the passenger side dash.

- got a length of hose from the valve cover mocked-up towards where it will travel and meet the tank. Will mount the tank in the next few days I hope .


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- Mounted the electric pump. found a spot almost directly under where the catch tank will be; behind the nose/fender and attached to to the steel bumper at two mounting points, and mounted a 90* home made bracket to the upper area to secure the pump in 3 spots. It has rubber isolators on it too, but I made sure its good and tight. I'll zip off the threads on those long bolts once the whole project is complete.

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Turned it on and it fired right up. Sounds loud in the garage. Haven't fired the engine in 2 months so I will wait to hear it that way too. Decided that I am going to soon add in a toggle switch in-line of the pump relay's ignition trigger wire so that I can manually turn the pump on and off. I like doing that with the torque converter, nitrous activation, and so forth, so having a switch for it will be easier for me than building it into any efi based program. I have one un-used spot on my nitrous panel so I ordered a rocker switch with LED light on it from Nitrous outlet to replace the bottle heater switch on this panel.

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At the price of about $60, I am probably going to buy a second pump just to have on hand, but I can't help but think of how helpful this will be as opposed to choking down the engine these past 4 years of action.

If I only need the one 5/8" diameter hose from one valve cover, I can finally just put a cap on the passenger side valve cover and get rid of the clunky breather that I've never been a fan of.

Yes, the pump is mounted vertically and my outlet is pointed towards the ground. The inlet port on mine is pointed towards the firewall. Looks like your inlet is oriented differently then mine but I would guess that should be fine.I periodically pop off the cover to see how things look inside, again I am not using a catch can so you might be better off. I'm curious how much vacuum you will make at WOT. Here's a pic of the adjustable vacuum switch I installed, bought from amazon. It's listed under a transmission part if you're interested.