Torque Arm worth getting?
 

Hey guys,

I'm getting my car ready for racing in the Spring (went to the track twice last year, and i'm absolutely addicted now). Before racing season, i'm planning on:

1) Removing Air/EGR and AC
2) Installing Competition engineering drag shocks
3) Installing a shift light (convenience)
4) Putting some MT drag radials on my stock rims and pray for good luck

I'm really trying to get the full potential out of my car since I can't really afford to get any more power out of it right now...Is spending the $400 on a nice UMI chassis mount torque arm worth it for this season? I'm trying not to spend a lot of money, but can justify buying one if it really makes a difference.

Opinions?

Thanks everyone!

what other suspension mods besides the springs do you have?

What other mods do you have?

I'd put a 12 bolt or 9" under the car before anything else. No point in making it hook better just so the stock rear explodes faster.

SRGN has a point but the torque arm will make the suspension work much better, keep you from popping trans mounts and it will transfer to most aftermarket rears when you decide to go that route..

FYI we are a UMI distributor, we can get you a good deal on the torque arm. Give us a shout when you are ready.

I have a UMI non-adjustable torque arm that fits stock location $100. If interested i have pics.

Thanks for all the responses everyone! Should have listed my mods...

-Full Bolt ons
-UMI lower control arms and relocation brackets
-UMI adjustable panhard bar
-Competition engineering rear drag shocks (to be installed)
-TA performance studs and girdle cover (praying this will help a little)

SRGN you do have a very good point and I have all intentions of getting a 12 bolt or 9" under there as soon as I can. Unfortunately, its just not possible right now for me (especially since I just bought a new daily driver). They are just so expensive, and it doesn't really seem like there are any fairly cheap options. I'm going to try to enjoy my car as much as possible, and if the rear blows, so be it. I'm not going to live in fear of it breaking, although am going to try to be careful on my launches.

If getting a chassis mount torque arm will help me eliminate wheel hop, i'm for sure going to get one (in hopes of saving the rear for as long as possible). What do you guys think?

Josh, would you be able to give me a price on a chassis mount adjustable UMI torque arm? Not completely sure how it works, but if a relocation kit is needed to get it off the transmission, a price for that would also be appreciated!

Thanks everyone!

If by "Chassis Mount" you mean the T/A that uses the foward bracket that bolts to the floor where the OEM stamped steel bracket is? Do yourself a favor and stay away from that style. That is NOT the chassis of the car. That is only the floor of the car and will flex like crazy.

A true chassis mount uses a crossmember that welds to frame connectors or is attatched to a roll cage such as a 25.5,25.3,25.2 etc.

Buy the BMR tranny mount that incorporates the T/A mount and use a std. length T/A. This area of the floor is a structural support of the Uni-body and won't flex.

Sure.. What is the year, engine and trans of the car?

Your statement is 100% correct but it is a matter of application as well. In a car such as yours with close to 1000hp running at the track with a big tire, trans brake, etc. that set up is perfect..

In a street car with moderate power the design that mounts at the seat brace is more than sufficient.. Sure the floor may flex a little but nowhere near as much as the trans mount like the factory design uses. The car still has control arms so the forward thrust is still transferred to the chassis through them. A set of three point subframe connectors can always be added to stiffen the tunnel brace area up a little more.. (We have cars running 1.2x 60' times with this set up so it cant be all that bad)

The "relocation kit" you described is a good piece for low to modrate powered automatic cars. It gets rid of the annoying broken trans mounts but the bushing still flexes more than the floor ever would so if total control is your concern this would be the least effective choice of the three.

Not everyone is going to cut their floor or install a roll cage into their car to make improvements in their suspension. This is why its nice to have choices to fit everyones needs and budget..

Josh, it is a 1996 Trans Am (LT1/T56) with longtubes (would like to get the DS loop option UMI offers).

I agree.

It is however at an extra cost and added weight not necessary by using a relocation trans mount.

We've gone 8.9 @ 148 1.27 60' at 3550# raceweight with a relocation setup. I don't consider this application to be low or moderate HP...

We have seen the bushing work its way out of the bracket on some of the higher HP stick shift cars. That is the reason we usually only reccomend the relocation kit for the lower powered auto cars. If there was a way to positively locate the torque arm it would be the perfect piece in my opinion.

So what would you suggest going with? My car is eventually going to have more power (once the motor goes and I rebuild it). Should I not get the relocation kit? I'm a little confused...what are the alternatives besides the trans mounted one and the one that bolts to the transmission crossmember?

I think you are on the right track with the chassis mounted short arm that bolts to the seat brace.

I got the UMI chassis mounted one with the DS loop from Josh, been on my car 3 years now without any issues and it works great

Im deep into the 8s with a bushing with zero issues.....

I am glad that its working for you.. Apparently I don't have your luck.

Also works fine on are cam only car 1.31 60s and zero issues

We have what works for us, you have what works for you. I reccomend things based on what we experience here on a daily basis.

If Its Setup Correctly there is zero issues with the bushing.

If pinion angle is correct there are really no other varables. It is a pretty simple design.

It's going to work well in that application. By using a longer T/A keeps the Instant Center further forward then a Floor Mount T/A which moves it rearward. Lower HP applications don't 60' well enough to require moving the I/C back...

A T/A suspension will always have it's issues compared to ladder bar and 4 link suspensions, but deflection of any type in a suspension is never beneficial. Especially in higher HP applications. That's where spherical rod ends come into play.

Put an onboard camera on your suspension some time, you'll be surprised what you see...

You guys have done a great job so far. I look forward to your further progress