Right, I know that, but as you can see, a crash means your head/body are moving a lot. Seat is not static but that bar is, so just concerned.

Is there a rule about the proximity of main hoop to seat back?

Gonna throw my 0.02 in here since I am in the same boat. I have a Wolfe 6pt sitting in my garage but have already come to the realization that I am going to be needing a full cage. From what I have researched, the 6pts are really not that bad as far as clearance goes. The hoop is decently far away and the door bars can be removed when you get swing outs with it (like I did). S&W makes a kit to convert a 6pt into a 10pt, which I believe is good to 8.50 (forget the mph). My friend has that conversion in his Vette and IMO I would not run it on a street car. His helmet rests on the bar when he sits in it, so clearance sucks. What I am going to do is put the 6pt I have in there now and get someone to do the 10pt conversion custom, so that I have the most head clearance from the halo possible. And just a tip when you are looking into it, the bar that goes across attaching to the 2 a-pillar bars behind the dash isnt required until 7.50, so you dont need that...

Matt, from what I've read here, I'd lean against the cage in your case.

You have NOT built a race car. Between the engine bay aesthetics, transmission and gear choices, and power levels you've made your decision clear. There were more "All Out" approaches you could have taken, but bypassed.

It's a great weekend warrior. Enough Go to make you giddy, fun summertime driver and car show/meet attendee. As for the 2-3 track days a year you'll do, you may very well slip through the cracks and get to run down the strip. Of course, eventually you will raise an eyebrow and get booted for not having a full cage, but in the meantime, you'll have a chance to reevaluate your appreciation of seat-time, be it on the track or everywhere else. You'll spend more than 90% of your time on the street. I'd design towards that, if I were you.




Agreed Scott, A+ thread.

Not to be taken as me being a pain, but from what I read so far, converting a 6pt bar to cage with halo is much more work than buying a 10 pt cage new. So think that over before ruining the resale on your bar.

A 6 pt is good to what, bottom 9s no?

Not that I can recall, just the seatback is supposed to be affixed to it which would prevent what you don't want.

10.0/135 last I checked. How often do you even race? Track rentals, they don't care. If you do a T&T night, just beat up some 14 second street cars with some half throttle to the 1/8th then FULL PULLLLLLLL

Ok, so basically if I want to do a bar, plan on a new seat or two that will allow for correct harnesses and for them to be secured to bar so my head doesn't get introduced to it.

I only ask about this topic cause this year I would really like to make it to the LTXshootout and they will want a 6pt. Otherwise, yea, T&T/rentals would not cause me to care about a bar.

Sounds pretty straightforward to me. You want to meet track requirements reasonably so a 6 pt is likely where you want to be since a 10pt will not be desirable for "street car" status. As you mentioned, make sure you have good seats that are solidly secured to the vehicle, proper harnesses and hope for the best. Hindsight is always a beautiful thing and anything can happen in a crash.... You will always find a crash story that supports any of the well thought out statements made in this thread.

6pt makes a lot more sense in this case. A pro installation like deadtrend mentioned will get you a better quality fit and can also lead to increased safety.

However, you were running 137 launching soft. So I dunno where you will end up as far as being "over the line" speed wise.

I'd go with a minimum of a 6 point, then. And in all likelyhood, a pro built/installed 6 point can be built to meet your critera probably far better than a bolt-in kit type.

Might slow down some between the correct gearing, added weight of safety equipment, and actually hooking up on the line. I think he was rolling the throttle too so it might go 140 instead :lol:

http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...1&d=1386223351

Looks like I can sneak the bar back a ways and if the seat is taller than my head, should be fine in that aspect.

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...ing-Track-Cars

Some good reading in that, makes me wanna go strip my car and save up for expensive safety gear. :lol:

yup, that is the thread i linked to earlier.

I skimmed it, I'll read it later as it looks like lots of good info but....

I don't think he has sat in a kirkey OR he is much fatter/stronger/better looking than me. Mine is stiff, doesn't flex at all. I haven't secured it to my bar though, something I should do.

Did you read more in detail on that? He says he personally runs a kirkey, but its the heavy duty like .120 thick version.

This is a Wolfe bar, seems like with a 3 point stock seat belt, you are going into the bar on a rollover.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/images...r/fbwbar07.jpg

I have some side shots of mine and with the seats all the way reclined, the bar is just aft of the seats. I would have to get in and see how far my head is from the bar but I recall it being pretty good. Things can move around in an accident obviously so that can change. Thankfully the Corbeau's are much stronger than the factory seats.

ET of 11:50 -10.0- slower then 134.9MPH you need a roll bar. That is typically a 6 point type. I have an S+W, which is an 8 point, has cross bars from the main hoop to the trans tunnel. I have swing out and I remove them when not at the track. NHRA rule is the side bar must pass between the shoulder and elbow, so its right at the arm rest on the door, making it a nuisance when cruising. I have my main hoop padded just for a bit of extra safty, and it does reduce some of the visabilty out the back window. NHRA rules define how must room between helmet and bars, and if installed this way, you are not going to make contact with the bar in a crash.

ETS 9.99 - 7:50 over 135 MPH is a roll cage - 10-12 point and a chassi certification. this adds the halo, down tubes at the dash, and through the firewall bars to tie everything together, window nets, parachutes ect. allot more race then street, My Guess, I haven't check the recent rules, but you use to be able to have swingouts.

7:50 -> 175MHP? Pro cage, with the bars that encase the drive. Don't think this is street legal due all the obstructed view. And with this you head can make contact with the bars.

Again, I would need to check the rule book. But NHRA use to have a clause for a "pure stock" car was exempt from some of the safety rules. Pure stock, if you even put in a CAI or changed muffler you were no longer stock.

I always use my 5 point harness have been pulled over a few times and they never questioned me using the 5 point and not the stock belts. But, I know they could.

For the shoulder belts, you can mount to the floor Y-belts, wrap around the cross bar, or mount to the cage. I have tabs welded to the cross tube for by belts.

** There are a few companies that sell roll bars that have thigh high side bars, and removable cross bars so you an use the back seat. these are NOT NHRA legal cages.

Y belts are no longer legal IIRC.

If you really wanted to you could use no cage and run to the 1/8, i know plenty of people that do that and have fast cars.

I saw afterward and saw the quoted pic was the economy drag.

It all depends on where you install the main hoop as well. That seems a little forward compared to mine. You also can adjust the seat positioning so you aren't under the bar. Mine don't go under but I also have trans am seats, maybe they are taller.

I put mine as far back as I could especially since I have my seat all the way back. The roll bar dpesnt seem like a danger how I have it setup.

Apologies if someone covered this already but with a bar, and no helmet... is a 5pt safer than stock 3pt belt? No airbags.

(I know its not legal DOT wise and I know it would depend on install and how its worn)

No. Bc stock belts are designed tpbstretch and kind of catch you fall. While 5 pts hold you back with no excuses and let your neck fly forward. I guess unless you wear a 5 point a little loose.

a bar as in a 4 or 6 pt? I'd use 3pts on the street I think.

Either your face hits the steering wheel or side window or your head tries to go there and paralyzes you instead. Both are good choices.

A bar as in a proper 6 point roll bar. Hoop and downriggers etc.

That was my thought, stock 3pt belt will slow you down but odds are, I would get a face full of steering wheel. Otherwise, 5pt would hold my body tight and neck/head would take shock.