Nice work light. Very fashionable. LOL


Nice job. Been there, done that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...sfoff010kk.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...img3772ny5.jpg

The Bonzo way of replacing a clutch, right? LOL

I didn't have much time to work on it but i got most everything off the the frame rails: upper and lower control arms, brake line, fuel line, steering.. I have some por15 and por15 top coat coming and a crap load of simple green to clean everything.

I just have one question. Should i remove the frame from the body or is that going to cause more headaches for me trying to get it back on?

one more, is the por15 going to take the heat right there by the engine and the headers? or should i coat it with their higher heat stuff?

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...5/IMG_4050.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...5/IMG_4051.jpg

POR will be fine everywhere on the frame. You should pull the frame and replace the frame mounts. It will also be easier to paint the frame with it removed from the body.

My guess is the subframe bushings are beat, and maybe the frame mounts on the frame. The question is how much of a pita is it gonna be to get them out. putting the frame back in is not too hard.

Here is what one of my frame mounts was like:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...1_IMG_1954.jpg<--rusted

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...2_IMG_2232.jpg<--new plate welded in

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...3_IMG_2260.jpg<--the small hole is used to realign the frame

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...2_IMG_2262.jpg<--painted & ready w/solid mounts



a lot of info: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17406



I have had no issue with paint on my frame next to headers - por-15, misted with etch primer, rustoleum semi-gloss black topcoat.

Bonzo thanks for the pics.

Ive done alot on this car so far, most for the first time ever, and it really hasn't been that bad. Removing the frame scares the crap out of me to be honest. Seems a little bit over my head and im having trouble pulling up information on removing and reattaching the frame. Not even sure how those smaller hole are used to aline the body and frame. Also have no way to weld on a plate to fix the frame mounts on the frame if they are rusted.

do u thin can can post up some more info on the process of pulling and reinstalling that way I can decide if that's something i really what to do.

Collin-

The frame is attached by 4 bolts to the body. Spray them with PB blaster or a penetrating oil to get them nice and loose before you try to loosen them. If you don't you run a greater risk of breaking one of the cage nuts loose (what the frame bolts lock into).

Removing a subframe is no big deal. When it goes on you can stick a large screwdriver into the small holes to align it. But that probably won't be an issue until you go to put the front sheetmetal back on.

on & off is the easy part, lol.

lots of pb blaster - remember wd40 is not penetrating oil.

by sheetmetal you mean the body right?

I have plenty of PB - i bought a bunch of cans before the project began. Ill start spaying the bolts each day before this weekend.

ok so maybe again im over thinking this and its not too hard to do. Any tricks or tips for safely removing the frame. Seems like an awkward and heavy piece of metal to move and support.

You can see the front cage nuts from the holes next to the frame in the firewall. make sure you spray into there too.
I was able to get my front sub back on the car by myself with only a floor jack and a few jack stands. Took about 10 minutes of juggling it a little with one bolt in the back spot, then pulling the front up and trying to start a bolt by hand.
My cousin said he used to re-install the frames with the engine in them when he worked resto. He had to be very careful about scratching stuff too. :shock: I wouldnt worry about R&R

read that nastyZ link I posted. It's got a lot of info on this.

You might want to take some measurements from the firewall up to somewhere near the front of the subframe on each side to help you try to get it back into place as close as possible. You will most likely need to make adjustments when the fenders go back on. Without the engine/trans in there, it's easy to pull out the front subframe and move it around.

I pulled the front subframe on my '79 during the summer. It was easy; four bolts as stated above. I made sure to support the body on jackstands and used a blocks of wood under the subframe to keep it from crashing down to the ground.

ok im pulling the subframe and all the bolts came out really easy except for one. The front pass side bolt. Its just spinning and i cant stop it. Tried to hammer the metal part down over the square bolt but as soon as i turn it the metal pops right up and it spins again. any ideas? I pb blasted the crap out of the bolt

Yep, you popped a caged nut. See if you can get vice grips on the square nut to keep it from going. But you can celebrate. The ones in the middle of the car are the nasty bitches. The one you have to deal with is easy to replace.

I was able to hold the top of the cage down with a block and a prybar and then was able to get the bolt loose. Keep spraying it with penetrating oil and try and get it out next weekend .

What he said....you have an impact gun or are you doing this by hand?

everything by hand, ill try what u guys said later tonight.

update 1-17-09
 

Well i got it out by cutting the bolt with my hack saw. So the frame is all off and only looks like one of those holes has rusted much like bonzo's from one of his post above.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...5/IMG_4053.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...5/IMG_4054.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...5/IMG_4055.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...5/IMG_4056.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...5/IMG_4057.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...5/IMG_4058.jpg



and with that I've hit the first thing i really cant do for the car, weld a plate for the body mount. Is there anyone in the area that is a welder by trade? id like to get that hole reinforced. Name your price.

hmmm and my post that said "cut it" was deleted? :lol:

i bet paul could do it. not sure of his schedule or turn around though if that matters. i'm sure its something he has had to do on more than one restoration.

That can be fixed.

Don't harm that small hole, that is for alignment.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...5/IMG_4055.jpg

That looks like an easy fix. Make a cardboard template out of 1/8" steel and find a welder.

Here's a page on how I fixed mine

http://www.apiem.com/camaro/SubframeRepair20060829.asp

I bought the Goodmark repair kit and it is not a direct fit. Just buy some steel and drill a hole in it.

nice site amargari

it was also recommended by member from another firebird forum to use "A very large heavy washer works really well for a patch on the frame. Grind away the rusted metal until the washer fits into the hole and but weld it in (get one with the right size inner hole). Grind the weld off and you will never be able to tell there was a patch."

seems like a good easy solution

Despite what that site says and what Goodmark says. that repair kit is for 67-69 camaro and nova. It CAN be used like the link shows, and is what I used, but was not intended for that application