Battery relo/Engine bay wiring
 

As many have seen, my engine bay leaves much to the imagination.. :|

I am wanting to relocate the battery into the trunk as my next project.

Plan is to pick up right from the starter and run down the drive shaft tunnel. My question is, what should I do with the wires that I have now hooked to the hot/ground distribution blocks.

I was thinking either running a heavier gauge wire up from the starter to them or relocating them. I think the best bet is to feed them with a larger wire.

And then I was thinking of making the nitrous rats nest all go bye bye and have a nice fused distribution block in the rear of the car off the battery to power the odds and ends I have.

Any thoughts, advice, or what to avoid is much appreciated. Goal is to do it right and clean up the rigged stuff.

Driveshaft tunnel? Maybe you need to clarify, but that sounds bad if anything ever happens to the drive shaft.

Is passing race tech important?

Well its either that, or cross over a header. Not sure which is the better.

I am open to suggestions. I would rather not run it inside the car, but if I must its ok.

And race tech would be at atco at best. I passed island with the current shenanigans, so I think I am good to go.

So atco does not care about shutdown switches, etc.?

I'd have to look under the car and look for a better idea, but anywhere near a moving part don't sound right to me.

I'd also have the positive cable dead except for starting.

Atco never popped my hood, so yea. No switch. And it would be easy enough to wire in later.

As for the cable being dead, are you saying I should not go straight to the starter?

Let me draw a pic & get back to you.

:lol: i'm sorry but you need a pic of your nitrous feed line and driveshaft saying hello

Don't run anything in the driveshaft tunnel.

Seriously man, are you going to do anything properly or just half-ass it all? And before you say anything- running a line down the driveshaft tunnel to relocate your battery with no shutoff switch is half assing it. If you do do the shutoff switch it will have to kill your alternator, so that may answer your question about running another line up from the back.

Personally I'll never dick around with my electrical system(s). If you do anything wrong you will tear your hair out chasing intermittent problems.

Do it right and be legal. IF tech pops your hood and no bat they are immidiately going to look for cut off switch, the wiring etc.

You don't any wires near moving parts (drive shaft), you can run them along the pinch welds/floorpan and tuck them up pretty high. But the majority that I've see do run them inside the car.

I relocated the power distribution block down next to the battery - in front of the radiator overflow tube, and ran all the wires above the wheelwell and below the inner fender, so there are no wires showing under the hood. I'll post pics this weekend. I started a tech artical but never finished it!

The thread below has good info on the bat relocation ( from the drag racing section ).

http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=45149

OK, well I guess thats the idea of this thread.

So I need to go down the side of the engine, to the starter and then run the line up into the car and into the trunk?

As for the cutout switch being half assed... other than track legality issues, is there another reason? I mean stock didn't come with a cutoff.

i think withe the length of wire your using to do a relo a cut off on the neg. wire is a good idea in the event of a short

Ok, one gauge or two?

for the wiring? come on now

http://www.streetlethal.net/battery/diagram.jpg

i would use 0 gauge over the 1 gauge in the diagram though. seems that people have starting issues with 2 gauge or smaller, especially when hot.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1206/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-830051/

i would just string it and buy the length you need plus a couple feet just incase. i would get it local too, probably cheaper and you can get all the little bs fittings too instead of buying the kit with stuff you might not need.

fyi, that cut off switch doesn't have the required decal. i'm sure kirk can cut one though. its a rebranded flaming rivers switch though for a nice price. not bad!

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cf...prod/prd66.htm

if you are worried about people turning your car off at lights or whatever you drunken college kids do.

I know Kirk had a lot of extra wire on his, and we routed his pretty loosely.

So you think that wiring kit is good?

And I was planning on wiring in the switch, but leave off the tie rod, and re attach it when I go to the track.

i remove the "push-pull" rod when i drive the car on the street

Ok, question, on the engine side.

I would have the 1 gauge wire coming in, now what do you guys do to get power to the starter/distribution block and a line to the alternator?

you are using a master disconnect swtich? is my picture not showing up?

from the switch in the rear, run 1 gauge or heavier wire to the post on the starter. run 4 gauge or better from the starter post to the junction block. from the alternator, run 4 gauge or better to the other side of the disconnect switch. run 1 gauge or better from the disconnect switch on the alternator side to the battery in the rear. run 2 gauge or better from the battery to ground and engine to ground.

mooar better?

also, if you were to do a power distribution/fuse block in the rear by the battery, you want to run your hot leads to the side that the starter is on.

No. You make no sense. At all.


See you at your shop. ;)

LOL maybe two weeks.

I ordered the cables, I am holding off on the cut off switch for now.

Ok, so thinking about how I am gonna do this.

I need to find a way to route the 1 gauge main hot to the starter and then I would like to re wire the hot lead to the alternator and main hot junction block.

What guage should I use for them? I have a lot of extra 1 gauge laying around, overkill?

Side post fail. :(

Does not fit well at all with the studs screwed into the side posts. Gr.

So I guess I am ordering that cut off switch anyways. Then just run a bolt and regular connector into the battery. Friggen sucks. But oh well. Now I have 16 feet of 1 guage wire in case I need to two something...