Broken Alt Bracket, Intake Leak?
 

Quick question, I've been having battery charging issues with my 1995 Trans Am, and noticed that while I had my Alternator out to be tested, I noticed the rear bracket was extremely loose and the bolt that holds it is spinning free in the intake.

If this bolt opening is exposed will it cause an intake leak? I truthfully don't know what is under this bolt and I'm assuming it goes into the block underneath the intake, I just hope its not a critical opening, which I can't imagine it being since their is no gasket.

Heres a pic for reference:
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k2...t/IMG_5584.jpg


Also secondary questions, I had the Alternator tested at a local parts store and they said it tested fine, but could a misaligned or loose alt cause power surges under load?

It should not leak from there, but you now have a hole into your crankcase valley that crap can mix with your oil. I would do your best to cover it, or yank intake and helicoil it to fix it right.

For the alternator, make sure its ground paths are clean and hot connection is snug. If it tests fine cold, maybe check your battery and leads?

I'd yank the intake and helicoil the head just for piece of mind. While the bolts are there for some redundancy, I would get it corrected.

As for the alternator, the rear bracket isn't critical but I've since started running one again since my accessory bracket cracked. Check all of the connections as mentioned. What do you mean by heavy load?

That bolt goes into the head, so it would sound like the head has a stripped hole unless it just wasn't torqued down (same bolt on mine loosened up after a few heat cycles when motor was rebuilt). It's right next to the #2 intake port, so you could develop/have a slight intake leak at the gasket below. I would suggest fixing it right too.

As for the alternator, I don't think it's possible to misalign it. Several people remove that rear bracket altogether with no issues. Anything drawing on the battery with key off? My qtp dpdt switch had an LED light that would kill the battery in a week.

Can you describe the charging issue more?

Not much to diagnose with a charging system. Check your ****** ass side terminals on the battery, make sure they are all good, along with the distribution block which likes to corrode. Have your battery AND alternator tested.

I had purchased an inexpensive Advanced Auto battery last year to get the car running. I don't have it on a tender, but whenever I need it, I'll start it through this Sears starter that I have and I had been letting the car warm up and idle at least twice a month, and nearly every time the car would fire up on the first try, so I figured the battery was holding a charge.

Last week when I took it for a drive during the day, the car ran exceptionally well, but after a quick burst down the highway, while coming down an off-ramp, the idle dropped and stalled, and the car wouldn't start due to typical dead-battery type issues. I got a jump, the car started, but as soon as I turned on the headlights, it had a hard time maintaining an idle at stops, require constant blips of the throttle as if the Alternator couldn't support it all.

I haven't taken the battery out to be tested yet, I ultimately want to get a good Ultima (red or yellow), and I have a battery relocation kit to instal, I just need a second hot wire to make it NHRA legal which I'll purchase soon. I'm in no rush, just trying to trouble shoot.

Do you have a voltmeter and an extra set of hands? Simple testing you could do is measure the voltage across the battery terminals. Resting, key off, it should be mid 12's. Cranking over, it shouldn't drop below 10 volts, preferable staying about 10.5 volts. Running, you should be in the low to mid 14's with no electrical loads. With headlights, hvac, and wipers on it should stay above 13 flat. Try those tests and see what you come up with. It would help to measure the amps coming out of the alternator vs being consumed by the vehicle but its not capable on a normal voltmeter.

We could be dealing with an iffy battery, an iffy alternator, iffy wiring, or a combo. The stall issue could be unrelated, perhaps the computer still learning.

Autozone battery.... Probably the culprit but sweetbmx has a good test typed up. Easy and solid

They are all made by one of a handful of companies, I run a Advance battery in both car and truck, never had an issue tied to the batteries.

I believe optimas may have changed their QC but when I was looking to replace my car's battery reviews on red tops seemed to be trending negative these days.

Alex:

Just an FYI, I had a similar charging issue a few years back. Turns out my cables coming out of the alternator were corroded and not making good contact. I had some old amplifier power wire that I replaced that wire with and that was all.

It could be the side post terminals like mentioned above, but it is always a good idea to upgrade/replace the big 3.

I think if you get top grade battery they are OK. I run delco and never had issues. I got a red top to see if bad reviews were true a few months ago. We shall see!

I haven't had a chance to test it out yet, but I have it sitting on the tender and I checked all my connections, and cleaned up a few contacts at the Junction block and the battery. I won't be able to test it until Saturday morning or Tuesday. Working a weekend shift sucks.

What is the gauge on the dash showing? I had issues where after 15-20 minutes of driving at night the battery was draining. Was due to all the extra draw (twin fuel pumps, extra gauges/lighting, wide bands etc) Had JSP rebuild and upgrade the alt. never had another issue.

Key Off - 0
Accessory - 12.5
Key Forward - 12.25
Idle - 12-5
Idle With Headlights - 12.9

Seems low to me while running, I would consider replacing the alternator or getting a second opinion at a shop. Simply ask them to check the charging system and load test the battery for you. If its more than $50 I would be surprised.

You should be north of 13.5 when running, so that definitely looks like it's not charging so well.

Make sure the connection between alternator/bracket and block is clean and snug as well. But kinda sounds like a dead alternator.

Any real difference between Remy, Power Select & AC Delco as far as Alts are concerned?

Most anything is rebuilt anymore. Most of the time you are paying for the warranty. I would consider ac delco the preference as they are an oe supplier.

I just get NAPA gold lifetime warranty alternators.

Mr. Alternator unit on my car has done well, not sure I would trust a box store rebuild.

Same here. If you are an AAA member you get a small discount, too.

I bought my alternator at autozone, so far no issues after 7k miles... still have to original as backup, have to rebuild it though

Only a few months later, finally got a Rebuilt AC Delco, solid numbers across the board! I went to check the tire pressure, and realized a valve stem had rotted through causing a quick leak. Bummer