00 SS in the 11s
 

I picked up a 2000 Camaro SS a little over a month ago and having been working to get it in good running order. The car has a MS3 cam, 3600 stall, BBK intake,3.73s, and full exhaust. The runs were made in Michigan this past week with a DA of 1500+.

Best pass of the night:

60: 1.66
1/8: 7.65
1/8 mph: 90.8
1/4: 11.98
1/4 mph: 113.3

I was having issues with the 1/2 shift hitting limiter and found out it was an issue with the trans tune I have on the car. I've got to finish dialing the shift points and lean out the car a little at WOT. Hopefully it'll see some 11.70s before the end of the season.

Good ET for the MPH.

Congrats on the time. Does this car feel as fast as your old Camaro?
Btw, do me a favor and start a "R! U!" chant out there in Ann Arbor tonight please...

Racing an auto is completely new to me, and honestly, if I wasn't still tuning the car I'd be bored with it already. The car is a different type of fast, that's for sure. A stalled auto is fun, but a manual is more fun.

Before I got this car, I've only ever 60'd in the 1.6's once. With this car, I've made 8 passes and 7 of them have been 1.67 or faster. All in all, I can't complain because I'm in this car for about a 1/3 of what I was into my old camaro and I'm going just as fast.

Congrats.

Nice job working out some of the issues. I think it needs better heads and at least a 4k+ converter to get the shift extension that cam needs.

What kind/size of tire are you on? Along with Kirk's suggestions I am gonna say the car wants more gear. 3.73's are a fair jump from stock but not nearly enough to use the cam's whole potential power band.

-Tim

Congrats! Those are some impressive 60' times. If you aren't running drag radials, I'm blown away.

The car is on 275/60/15 ET streets and radial skinnies. I run the tires at 14 PSI and do a burnout until I see the the RPMs start to drop under constant pedal. Nothing special but the car just leaves the line hard, only suspension mod is LCA's. The car doesn't even have subframe connectors.

I'm still learning all of the trans parameters in HP tuners and definitely need to dial the trans side of the tune in. I'm going to take the car to the track hopefully this week with my new tune on it and see if I can get an 11.7 out of it and then I plan on trying to put some spray on the car before the end of the year and dip into the 10s.

Also should mention that I've been launching off of stall(which is about 2300 rpm). Next time I go to the track I'm going to try and flash the stall from just off of idle to see if I can get another 100-200 rpm of stall speed. I think the car is geared correctly for the setup as it crosses the line right around 6K, the cam is just too big for stock heads.

Flashing off idle usually works best with solid or stiff bushing suspension mods otherwise the stock rubber bushings and flimsy connectors absorb the extra shock. You would probably go much quicker on your current setup with a 230's duration cam peaking around ~6300.

Going through the line at 6k and only trapping 113 does not sound right. My calcs with 4L60e, 3.73g, and 28" tire say you should ideally be going through around 5k. Plugging in a 27" tire assuming you're aired down and no expansion up top says you should be ~5300. That would mean you have a lot of converter slip to be at 6k or your tach is off? I was trapping 125+ on a 26" tire, 3.73g, and loose 4k stall

The converter is most likely slipping a lot. My datalog shows 5950 at 113. I plan on playing with locking it during 3rd gear my next time at the track. I realize locking the converter is asking for a lot of trouble, but that's why I bought your trans :lol:

:rofl: When you blow that trans, make sure you remove all the torque management and return to factory pressure and force currents before running mine.

What converter is that so I know to never buy one?

Previous owner said it was a dayco or something along those lines, I knew it wasn't a quality part when I bought the car. I plan on dialing in the shift points before I consider locking the converter. Main issue with locking the converter is the amount of heat it creates in the fluid, correct?

No, locked converter means less heat but you will blow through a single disk friction material if you have it WOT.

Gotcha. Well the rear main seal is leaking so I have to pull the trans this winter anyway.....

heat is bad for everything that has to do with an automatic. Dont quote me on this, but I believe the issue with locking a single disk converter is the lack of surface area on the clutches so it will slip (especially at wot) creating extreme heat and burn up. Most cases Ive read about are that guys do it a few times, think they have a unicorn, then the converter explodes. Goodluck

Side note - please get a decent, properly spec'd converter before you ruin everything with nitrous. You would net low 11s with heads, converter, and tuning and the car would be much more reliable.

I'm basically just trying to go as fast as I can with the current setup that is far from efficient. I just updated my hptuners config to log TCC slip and duty cycle so I can watch it on my next few passes. This winter the whole powertrain will get a good look over. If I decide to keep the car as a 5.7 NA setup for next season then I will de-cam it to get the powerband in a more reasonable range. I have to look into what is considered acceptable slip for a 4l60 converter...obviously 900 rpm seems to be unacceptable. On the oem stuff I work with I see 400-500 rpm slip at most.

Got my shift issue fixed and still tuning the shift points a little but got a new PB today. The car ran 11.86 twice today.

Best Pass:

60: 1.64
1/8: 7.54
1/8 mph: 91.44
1/4: 11.86
1/4 mph: 114.6

nice!

Nice times. I heard the 4L60Es cannot take any abuse at all, so get ready for a rebuild! lol

I've got a spare 4l60 in the garage waiting for when this one goes.