LS1 Swap
 

Well as some of you know or dont know, I am swapping in an LS1 into my 87 Camaro. This will be a more tech driven discussion, trying to get ideas and pool thoughts on best way to approach problems if and when I come to them.

List of things that will be done durring this process, not in order:
1) Engine swap
2) Trans with converter
3) Repin and splice harnesses
4) Motor mounts to Kmember
5) Moddify and install 4th gen tank with upgraded pump
6) Install sub frame connectors
7) Install trans cooler
8) Install rear
9) Install Corvette valley pan

Others to add as we go along

At this point, the 305 and 700R4 is out, harness is pulled, and the engine bay needs to be scrubbed. At this point, the major work will be put off till cleaning, paining, and splicing is done. In this time, parts will start to arrive and I will start gathering ideas on the best way to approach things.

Several things that have been brought up.

1) What torque converter to go with? The car that the engine came out of ran a 4000 stall in a 4L60E and ran high 11's. Not sure on the rear gear, but I do have cam specs, and Ill post them. Rear gears will probably be a 3.73 rear. The car wont be a drag-race only car, as it will spend a lot of time on the street so I do want soemthing a bit more civil.

Ill post more as I go on. If anyone has ideas, tips, or whatever, post up!
If you want general BS, go ahead and jump into the Jersey Shore section.




Ok: timeline added to first post, with highlighed things done

Ok, time lines in what I want to do.

by July 8th
Old mounts removed, K painted and brackets put in
Remove and send out the harness to have redone and ready for my car and sent out
Finish painting engine bay

by July 17th
All the parts for the trans in and assembled
Purchase headers and torque converter
Start bolting things together.

by July 23rd
Decide on what to do with gas tank.
Install new Speedo
Get harness back
Prep for install
Find exhaust shop to make y pipe.

By July 30th
Install 4th gen gas tank and all new lines and fittings (if decided to go 4th gen tank)
Install engine and trans.

By August 6th
Fix all bugs and pilot runs. Inspect and insure. Make appointment with exhaust shop

By August 13th
Maiden Voyage.

Size of the stall is not really as important as the other variables for the stall, look at Kirk's compared to mine, his is real loose and doesn't move the car till a pretty high RPM versus mine which is reasonably tight and gets the car going pretty well with normal driving.

I would say around a 3000-3200 stall speed, should be nice at the track and not kill your highway driving, although if you get a TCI 6speed 4L80E... ;)

And I thought Brandon's rear was 3.42s?

You gonna get the PCM re programmed or at least tweaked for a lighter car and different stall etc?

Trans cooler is pretty easy, I would highly recommend doing something similar as to what Kirk ended up doing, hardlines suck.
http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=48508

Not sure what the deal is with your fuel tank but a fuel pump sway is easy and reinstalling the tank is easy if you are swapping rear ends, just do the two at the same time.

I would hold off on the SFC's until you get that thing out of your god forsakenly crooked driveway and after a few miles of driving.

What are you plans for gauges etc?



For the awesomeness thread...
http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=51706
:)

3600-4000 ...3000-3200 is mild for a LS1 w/ 4L60E...

Much lighter car, and he is primarily going to DD it. To large of a stall will kill the fun of driving the car. If you do get a larger one, make sure its not loose as hell for drag racing...

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415639

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/automa...kies-here.html

Start reading Al, that or call up JSperf or yank/circle D/Vig etc and tell em what you have and what you want.

Sounds good. Im still debating on sending out for the harness or not. It would save me a bunch, but it would eat up a lot of time.

I think I got me a trans too now...

http://www.speartech.com/

i use them for all my swaps they are well worth the money

Actually a lighter car would get up going easier than a heavier car with a high stall. The right way to do it would be to look at the torque curve of the motor to choose stall rpm, then get it built with an str to fit the torque multiplication you want for the car's weight.

My stall to yours act completely different because you have a different powerband and tq curve, different gears, and you have a mystery stall rpm.

From what I've read, Vigilante stalls run loose. You should not throw out the idea of getting a 4000 just because of my case. Yank SS series stalls only need around 2000 rpm to get going which would be perfect for DD. Circle D has built a great rep on LS1tech for custom building stalls to fit the users criteria. I think you should at least go with a 3600.

to get technical, the only nhra approved trans lines are braided and metal. i think you are allowed like a foot of rubber but can't be the whole line.

Thanks Adam. Worse case, Ill reuse the lines off the 700.

What do we think guys and gals? Paint engine bay black or keep it red?

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2976774_n.jpg

Black. I don't know much about torque converters, but I think black will look good and be easy to clean.

Here are some general progress pics. they can be found on my facebook.


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5720391_n.jpg

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs508...._2456526_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2874238_n.jpg

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs508...._8312706_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7113821_n.jpg

Is the car going to be black? If you're keeping the factory color on the outside, keep it on the inside.

Red would look good.

i personally would go black. if you go to a car show and look at the older muscle cars, they have black under the hood. its just a clean look. keeps your attention on the motor and red can be overpowering at times. just my opinion.

id keep it red...having a different color underhood usually looks like you got the car resprayed a different color and was too lazy to do it live :nod:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a49.../Dscn08372.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a49.../Dscn08412.jpg

:)

Yea, I believe Jegs has a push lok option that is NHRA, not 100% on that but either way, hard lines are a pain to deal with, a nice SS braided line would look nice as well. :nod:

And yea, dunno what I was thinking on the weight/stall...

also, another question to gauge people's thoughts.

Go with the stock gas tank and an Corvette fuel filter, or go with teh 4th gen tank. Recently Ive thought about scrapping the 4th gen tank idea....but I do have one.

Either way tank has to be dropped no?

Stock tank would mean one less headache with the stupid ass gauge disaster you want?

i would gauge costs and go the least expensive route ;-)

Well...tank cost me 40, the Corvette fuel filter is 50, and I have to replace it like a normal fuel filter.
Pros of the filter
Dont touch the tank and dont have to worry about modding the pump so the gauge can read
Has a built in regulator
Cons: cost 50 bucks a clip every time you change it.

Pros of the tank:
plastic tank increases capacity
surrounded in a bucket to stop fuel starvation.
fits into stock location

Cons:
mod the tank for gauge
tie new pump to old harness.

You are gonna leave a stock TPI fuel pump from 1987 in there?

Ugh. Come on Al.

Now whats so fancy about this vette filter? It does the bypass thing right? But the reg is where?

pretty sure he mentioned a walboro. in any case, i'd run a hotwire kit.

Ok, just looked at the vette thing, so its a reg/filter combo...

For 50 bucks, can't you find a non adjustable regulator and then run a semi-custom setup?

Have it mimic the vette combo but separate the reg and filter.

im pretty sure that he could have a 5600 lock up stall and it wouldnt effect his highway driving since it would be locked at highway speeds....

Al i would go with a 3600 but i really think that you should call Josh or one of the manufacturers directly