Yeah the green/gold will look really good

Just waiting for the cover of darkness to slip it into the street!

It runs & drives! I need to re-bleed the brakes & find a permanent solution for my electric water pump. For the life of me I cannot remember how I had it set up before. Other then that I tied up some loose ends in the engine bay, re-routing wires & keeping things clear. Harbor Freight to the rescue!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ro/cleanup.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...safetyloop.jpg

The safety loop has to go though, it caught on my driveway last night and nearly gave me a heart attack thinking something broke on its initial test drive. The piece hangs lower then the transmission and thats a huge no go for me.

Is that the UMI one still?

What are you trying to do with the electric waterpump? I can help you wire it up any fancy way you want. Can even make pretty mspaint pictures if need be :)

what software are you using to edit those photos like that?

Happy to hear it drives around Alex.

Can you give him the buzzer or warning light option too?

What do you mean? You can have an led that is powered and grounded by the feeds going to the waterpump? You could potentially wire something up with relays to light if the power or ground were not present too. You can't really do a buzzer for an overheat condition unless you did something with a coolant temp sensor. Your best bet there would be an led that lights off of high speed fan operation so it brings your attention to coolant temp. I think all of the above are excessive but I'm not much into the led light show at the moment :)

I meant if the pump fails, a light comes on or some device makes noise.

If you can find a sensor to watch the motor rotate or coolant moving, sure. Otherwise, I have no idea how you would accomplish that nor do I care to figure it out! I simply meant wiring the pump to run with key on and/or switched power/ground through an aftermarket or the stock air pump relay.

This is why im against electric pumps unless its a track only car..

Kid is a little diode happy but LIKE I SAID, you can have an led that's powered and grounded by the pump's feeds. If its out, you know the pump isn't getting power or ground. You could split it up into 2 leds as well but that's kinda silly to me. Your diagram doesn't let you know if the pump fails, only if it isn't receiving power or ground. This is why I said if you can find a sensor that can watch or listen to the actual electric motor OR watch the coolant flow, you can know if the pump isn't operating. Otherwise, your coolant temp will slowly rise. Its really not hard to catch. This is also why I said leds on fan speed. If you see the led come on when high fans are on, you know the engine is running hot and watch yo ass.

Unless I suck at reading, that diagram isn't even correct.

I didn't make the diagram and posted it for discussion purposes.

Never under stood the point of LEDs or what not. Watch your damn dash cluster and be done. You will know fast if your water pump kicks the bucket.

Furthermore, I would bet a shot rotor or brushes would let current pass through stator enough to possibly always power a LED warning regardless if pump failed or not. LED just makes it so you know you have power, which to me, seems redundant.

You overheat, or you don't. Why add complexity.

I didn't say you did. I laid out the options for simple monitoring of the circuit. You can't monitor the actual electric motor's operation without some sort of sensor to watch it spin or monitor coolant flow. You could maybe do something like a crank position sensor and attach a reluctor wheel somewhere to monitor the rpm. The actual fins may work but I don't know how strong the magnetic field would be through coolant, I think its aluminum anyways, and you'd have to worry about sealing the sensor.

I thought you might be able to ohm the circuit through the motor but didn't think it would be completely fool proof like you are saying.

Just throw a flow switch in the oil cooler bypass hose.
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...psf0b76449.jpg

Or if its an ls1, the pcm goes in to limp home mode, therefore cutting almost all power. Then you let it cool down, plug the wire back in where it somehow fell out of, and good to go again. Been there done that. lol

No need for anything fancy. I dug through some old photos, and found that it was originally installed just tucked under the Ignition fuse (Previous shops hack job), I was just trying to find a fuse to make the hot wire a permanent fixture. I bought this dual fuse gadget from my local pep boys that allows you to run a fuse with a wire coming out, but it wasn't getting power to the pump and then the ignition so I have to trouble shoot that.

These are all iPhone pictures hosted straight to photo bucket, quick and dirty. If your talking about the renders, I use Adobe Illustrator.

In other news I'm about to throw in the towel as this car is fighting my every inch of the way, finding missing bolts from important places, and questionable connections left and right. I have to go back to the West coast tomorrow so in the meantime, I'm probably going to sell my track bike and have it sent to Josh to tidy it up. What an F'n nightmare.

So far I've found:
- The driveshaft is rubbing the UMI Driveshaft Safety loop (Zero Ground Clearance)
- Missing a bolt where the torque arm meets the rear-end
- Missing all the bolts for the brackets that hold the front sway bar
- Brakes need to be re-bled
- Oil Pan sensor doesn't click in
- ABS Inop Light
- I need a sawzall to remove the Hooker exhaust
- Install my Magnaflow exhaust
- New brake pads & rotors

You can utilize the air pump relay and an unused fuse in the fuse box. I think I used the abs fuse but I don't know if you plan on keeping that. If its going to js performance, I'm sure they will do it the way they want. If you want me to guide you using the existing stuff, just let me know.

if you give me a list of bolts and brackets you need, ill put them aside for you. I have to strip a 93 z28 and 98 z28 in the next month.

Hey Paul, I appreciate the help. I wish I had a complete list of everything missing but off the top of my head its still that bracket & bolts for the front sway bar, and the bolts connecting the torque arm to the rear-housing. Also I think I'm going to hit you up for the Spindles and brakes from that 98 Z28 if your not using them yourself.

I'm actually in the process of selling my 2008 Yamaha R6 out here in California and that will put me ahead and able to purchase and tie up the suspension up front. When I first bought that bike, it stole money from the Camaro, now things have sort of come full circle.

Full Ebony interior out of a 2002 Formula:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...o/IMG_3319.jpg
Corsa Clone Tips:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../IMG_5652.jpeg

Some replacement ignition parts, wheels/tires and interior goodies are on order.

I have all the suspension pieces now and it should be getting bolted together this week. I ran through the fluids the other day and found water in the brake reservoir. Its either from sitting over the winter or theirs a leak in the master. I have a spare master if thats the issue after draining, and re-filling.

All I really need is a new battery and I might be able to get it moving in the next few weeks.

Keep at it! Interior and tips will look nice.