NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds - New clutch, smells, high grab point

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New clutch, smells, high grab point

Ok so... about 4 months ago I had a monster stage 3 put in my car. New throw out,slave, fly wheel. My car also has a tick master cylinder. Drove alright after it was done had a slight clutch smell for the first 50~ miles of normal driving and went away. Grab point was a little high for a new clutch but I didn't think anything of it. About 300 miles later which would be yesterday. I took the car out of my garage after letting it sit for 2 months. Clutch grab point is at the tip top of the peddle. Almost completely releasing the peddle before it starts to engage and feels very sloppy. I still had to drive it home from my other garage so about 20~ miles to get home. On the highway I gave it some throttle and once it got passed 3500 - 4k rpm I smelled clutch immediately. Didn't feel like its slipping at all but smelt like it for sure. T tops off / windows open.

So my question is. Do you guys think this is a install error? Is this something even fixable without pulling the trans back? Or did I just get unlucky with some bad parts? Also would this have anything to do with the adjustable peddle from the master cylinder? Im not much of a trans guy especially a manual trans so Im just looking for the right direction to start in.

Did you measure to see if you needed a shim? How well did you bleed the system? If you did a remote bleeder, try bleeding it more. If you kept the original bleeder setup, make sure it's not leaking, and getting fluid on the disc, and try to also bleed it again. Isnt the tick master adjustable or is that an option for some?

Edit: I saw now that you did say adjustable. Try seeing if adjusting it works. But I think it shouldn't "slip"/smell at full release in gear, but possible.

I somewhat remember playing with the tick master on a friend's car but

Quote:

It is important to make sure our kit is properly bled and adjusted for optimal function of the entire system.

Since you increase the amount of fluid the system flows by setting the clutch pedal higher, adjustment should begin from the shortest setting possible. The pedal will appear to be about halfway down when compared to its location with the factory cylinder installed. Adjust the turnbuckle in 1-2 turn increments to lengthen the rod (be sure that the rod coming out of the master cylinder itself isn’t spinning). After each adjustment, start the car in neutral and attempt to shift into first gear. If it doesn’t go into gear smoothly, don’t force it (you’ll risk damaging your transmission’s fork pads and/or synchronizers). Simply continue to lengthen the rod until the transmission will slide into first gear smoothly while stopped. At this point, test drive the car to fine tune the adjustment to get the necessary release for higher RPM shifting. DO NOT OVERADJUST THE ROD, or adjust it based on pedal height. If you adjust it to position the pedal at the factory height, you risk over-extending (thus damaging) the pressure plate.

You want to set your kit to flow just enough fluid – not too much, not too little. Correctly installed and bled, you will notice a pedal that is shorter and slightly more firm than it was with the factory master cylinder.

The LS7 Clutch is not alone - as ANY clutch breaks in, the amount of fluid that it needs in order to fully disengage may increase. This is common. Readjustment of our kit is easy and should be done periodically to ensure that you're always disengaging your clutch 100%.

that is definitely the proper procedure and I do remember once we had it correct, it was as described. Lower than stock and a little firmer.

Hmmm ok so I will start with re adjust the peddle then. Hopefully nothing permanent was caused. Right now the peddle is about 50% lower then stock (how it was with stock clutch). So Im hoping it just needs to be let out a little.

As of needing a shim Im not sure. I had someone do the install since Ive never messed around with manual trans much. I would assume being a trans shop they would of done what was necessary.

Thank you all for the info.

Hopefully you caught it early enough but I agree on following the directions Sweet posted.

Well pulled the peddle back a around an inch maybe 5-6 threads or so. Its even with the brake pedal. Seems to have made a difference. Still grabs pretty high but there's a good 1-1.5 inch of free space from the top of the peddle now. Drove it around doesn't seem to smell so hopefully that's all it needed. Will update this after I drive it more