Engine Cooling
 

Trying to envision in my head how I could run two pumps in parallel while maintaining one of them as the factory housing.

My thought was to Y out of the rad and form two hoses in place of the #1 hose. Then one goes to factory pump and another hits a remote pump which then feeds factory pump.

http://shbox.com/1/95-97_hoses.jpg

Your picture link is dead

IIRC BMW has a PWM remote pump they use. Guys use it for engine and W2A intercooler cooling.

What is your Antifreeze to coolant ratio? Higher the water content = better thermal transfer

Fixed link, I hope.

And as far as coolant ratio levels, not a clue. Will be draining/flushing and refilling with distilled/water wetter soon though.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...3/#post5470703

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...3/#post5470705

Peep those links.

I wouldn't do water wetter, IMO its a bandaid.

I'd do 75% water and 25% coolant. That should be good to 10* F.

Arent you on the stock radiator? Why not upgrade that

Won't help highway speed stuff. Just take longer to get hot.

Was thinking if I bump mass flow through motor/rad I will hopefully get more cooling.

This sounds like it won’t work nor solve the problem

I almost want to say that I've heard in the past that too high of a coolant flow rate isnt good either because then there's less time to absorb and give off heat. You'd almost have to see what the optimum flow rate is and then maybe use a stand alone electric pump and fully gut/port the stock housing.

this

Again, more cooling capacity without increasing surface area will only slow the increase and then hit the same temps.

Not sure how much more surface area I could squeeze in the car, perhaps a very thick core?

Stielow does it in his cars with more hp and ac with stock gm water pumps. Big radiator and intercooler.

I would at least start there before i reinvented the wheel

Is 200* hot?

Not really, less than factory right?

Does anyone make an improved lt1 water pump?

matt, I know you don't have a Datsun, or a LS3, and don't live in Arizona, but I remember quickly skim-reading this article in last month's Hot Rod magazine. . I know that you know your stuff mechanically. A few months ago I dove into the cooling system portion of my project and I am fortunate that my very simple setup seems to work for me. but for your boosted setup its more complicated and different. It might not gain you any knowledge, but I thought it might be worth a read

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/stop...0hp-ls-engine/

It makes me concerned, but in theory its no hotter than factory LTX/LSX run on highway. I know I have a lot stacked in front of radiator but not used to engine running this hot is primarily what concerns me. I have the "best" electric water pump, but its no match for the factory setup at highway speeds.

Interesting article, reverse of my condition. At idle or when fans are on, my setup will cool right down to thermostat, 180-190* And I have lousy derale pusher fans :lol:

From what I can find so far, I need ~767ci of radiator volume, and that is fairly close to what OEM is. If we assume OEM is overall 31x19x1.375, that gets 809ci of volume, so on paper factory radiator is sufficient. Which means I have the harder path of finding how to prioritize air flow thru radiator.