http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...es-fed-up.html

So it appears it is a function of the alternator whether it needs the duty field cycle wire to be connected to the ECM. I am guessing the F-car alternator is in "charge" all the time, but the trucks have an "on demand" feature to try to salvage expected life from the rectifier circuit? Does that make sense? There is a LOT of information on that page.

At any rate, since I am going to use the truck alternator in the car and it is not a sensor where resistance is a big deal, I don't have any issue just extending the wires with some butt splices and heat shrink over them.

NINJA EDIT BASTARD!

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Do it

Lol

Basically got my wiring harness finished today. All I have to do is integrate the harness into the AAW harness that I bought. I still need to buy some wire wrap, I am going to go with something like Techflex, it is a nylon weave that is split, you just spread it and put the wire in and tape the ends. The wire for the connectors and whatnot can come out where ever needed. The Holley harness that I have has it and I really liked it, so I want to use that.


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didnt read through all the posts... lazylol... what color is this car going?

In the end it will likely be 71 "Citrus green"

Ok, so I learned that the StainlessWorks headers won't work with my 3rd gen 5 speed bellhousing today. I ground down the bracket for the slave cylinder until it no longer interfered with the headers. Then and only then did I realize there was not enough room for the slave cylinder.
So looks like I am going to have to run an LS1 T56 instead of this aftermarket unit that I had in there in the first place. Now I will either have to rebuild the other transmission or find one that is better than the one I already have. And hopefully my driveshaft will still work, the hole in the trans tunnel etc.

Just the SW headers, or any LS1 headers? I have a couple pairs you could try, if you think a different manufacturer's design may clear your slave cylinder, and let you retain your primary transmission choice.

Besides, maybe I could use a LS1 T56, if you have one collecting dust :lol:

Looks good. Should get the intake dipped with a carbon fiber pattern. T-bolt clamps for the intake eh?

These are swap specific headers, I doubt anything else will work. They are also 1 7/8", I'm not getting different ones

Yuck, if it's not real carbon fiber it doesn't go on the car. T bolts as opposed to.....? Worm gear? I just got them with the silicone tubing.

header problems? turbo manifolds will fix that

No, transmission problems. I am staying N/A

Dipped would look better than factory black plastic. T bolts are usually for boosted setups so I was just making a joking comment which didn't appear to be taken that way. They do look better than the cheapo standard clamps.

I may paint the manifold, it's a little dirty right now and it needs to be cleaned well before I tighten everything up. I despise the way the carbon fiber dip looks, I'd rather cover it in mud, or animal Crap first.
I like the worm gear clamps that have the extension to cover the gear path so the rubber can't extrude through the holes, but it was just easier to get the t bolt clamps when I bought the other stuff. In the end most of that stuff is going to wind up in the firebird anyway

Found another transmission already :rofl: You must be looking too hard. I'll have a bunch of stuff for you if you want to do a conversion though, Between Mike and I, we probably have what you need minus the trans...

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you can have your cake and eat it too...it'll just cost more :D

What is the point of light weight carbon fiber on covers that will add weight just by adding them

If the pieces are entirely carbon fiber and you still want a cover, it would be the lightest option. I see what you are saying though.

You're right, I can have my cake and eat it too

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Ijust don't want or need those for a stock 4.8

I could buy a CF intake for SBC too. My friend makes a carbon fiber intake replacement for the Holley stealth ram

For ****s and giggles I grabbed the LH side 3rd gen swap header and tried it in the Camaro. It would probably fit and work with a standard LS T56, but it hits the clutch slave bracket in a different way.
Oh well, lined up another T56 anyway, going to pick it up Saturday, in New Hampshire :shock:

OK, so with the "new" transmission I have to move things around a bit, or buy another driveshaft. Considering that I bought this driveshaft and I dont really want to buy another one, I decided that since the LS T56 bellhousing is ~1" shorter than what I had in there I will just move the engine back the necessary amount. I pulled the LR4 and T56 out and put them to the side and put the LS1 T56 on my mockup block with the adapter plates and clamshells attached, also with the heads, intake and headers on and put it in the car to see how everything is going to work. Since the shifter sits about 3" rearward on this transmission I knew I was going to have to cut the shifter/tunnel hole larger anyway, plus the shifter base is longer on the LS1 T56. I just had to cut into the body brace in the transmission tunnel, if I wasnt moving the engine I wouldn't have gotten into it at all.

Here is how the front of the engine sits now, it is a little difficult to tell since I dont have a front cover for this engine, but the front of the engine sits about even with the centerline of the front wheels now. Moving the engine back a whole 1.25" and the LS engines are ~1" shorter than Gen 1-3 SBC's I should have a good line on space and weight distribution. When I had the BBC in the car I had about 3/4" or less between the water pump and fan, now I am thinking it will be close to 4" space

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There is still about an inch of space from the firewall to the back of the heads, the back of the intake sits about 1/2" to the firewall, the headers are in no danger of hitting the floor or firewall. I think this is going to work out fairly well.

Tomorrow I need to put the transmission crossmember in and make sure that I have enough tunnel room all around the transmission. I have the trans jacked "into place" but I want to make sure the crossmember goes in properly. It is fully adjustable front-to-back so I just need to loosen the bolts and slide it back, if at all. I am only worried about tunnel clearance because Scott had interference issues at the front of the transmission in his '77, but I think the consensus was that the later cars have different tunnels than early cars.

Bolted the trans crossmember in the car, didnt even have to move it because the mounting pad has slotted holes. I would highly recommend that crossmember to anyone with a second gen.

After the crossmember was in I put the driveshaft in, that was all good too. There is still plenty of space all the way around the trans in the tunnel too.

Also got the holes drilled to move the clam shell mounts back 1.25" inches. Once I weld in some metal to close up the shifter hole a bit, since the other transmission shifter was so much farther forward, I can put the engine and transmission back in for the last time (that is until I get a new engine). I also plan on bench bleeding the clutch master and slave so I dont have to mess with that in the car at all. I didnt get a remote bleeder and I dont see how it would be possible to do that in the car. Still have to find the Tick master I bought though, I lost it in the house..... :rofl:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/new-produc...vers-sdpc.html

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