84 Firebird $1000 project.
 

So I sold my 4th gen because it wasn't a car I really enjoyed compared to my 3rd gen, which has been sitting since 2010 or 2011 because I keep popping rocker arm studs and/or pushrods. I've since ordered 1.5 ratio rocker arms but I never got around to putting them on because of how demoralizing the car is.

Motor is a 400sbc
Vortec heads
234/244 @ .050" .488"/.510", 114 LSA cam
Performer RPM intake
Speed demon 750
3500 stall connected to a TH350

Here is my plan.

I'll have a $1000 budget on this car, $125 a paycheck over the course of the next four months, for the car to be ready for the spring. I'll be focusing on what need's to be replaced like:

Balancer bolt
Trans pan/Gasket(it's leaking)
Rear adjustable control arms(the ones on it are from the 4th gen I sold)
Battery
headlight rebuild kit
Horn
Headliner
Interior plastics
Alternator

Every penny I have left over will go to:
9 bolt 3.27 rear
Subframe connectors
Exhaust

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...Tzv_ph-1-1.jpg

I get paid this Friday 1/18/13 and will make my first round of parts order and update this thread biweekly with my payday. I haven't felt this excited for a project in years. Which was one reason I had to get rid of my 4th gen.

Edit #1 1/14/13
PARTS I ORDERED
A new balancer bolt and a new air cleaner
Headlight rebuild kit
TR55 plugs
Top Dead center locator
Umi LCA's
Spohn adjustable phb
Harbor freight jack
$290 spent so far

Get a pushrod length checker!

http://www.amazon.com/Competition-Ca...length+checker

Is this good enough? Any write up's on how to use it?

http://www.compcams.com/Products/CC-'Pushrods'-0.aspx

Better than I can type. Read "measurement techniques", too.

I've got an extra pan/new gasket for the trans if you want it. I will just need to find the gasket but it shouldn't be too hard. lmk if interested.

Just an update. Had to send a part back. Didn't order anything new yet. I'm cleaning out the garage so I can actually work on the car, little by little.




I want to make sure I need it before I buy stuff.

Sounds like its easily done. Sounds similar to the deal I did with 88WS-6's GTA when I bought it. Figured right around a grand for the bottom end to be redone. Still gotta do the valve seals at least if not a whole valve job. UMI and Founders (reportedly) have nice LCAs. I know you can get the UMI adjustables for right around 100-120 or so I believe. Do you plan to weld in the SFCs yourself or have someone do it?

I like Paul at RPM, he's went above and beyond when he did some bike parts. If he can do the SFC's I'd be really happy. If not I'm sure I'll be able to find a shop locally.

I got to work on it a little bit today. I forgot how awesome this car is and I can't wait for it to run again.

He can, Paul Hyurk of CTW Wheels had Paul of RPM put in SFCs on his GTA. Said he did a really nice job. He said he can do them for me as well and likely whoever else does it. They need to be installed a certain way, car needs to be weighted as a complete car (no problem for you there) and I believe all four wheels need to be on the ground. So a drive on lift would be best. I'd just talk to Paul and go from there. I'll probably have him do mine when I get there.

Not really a necessary thing to have the wheels on the ground, just dont do it by jacking up one corner type of thing. Picking up on a lift is fine ...

Ah ok, I'll remember that. So much conflicting information from different people, on how to install them. Most say drive on lift is best vs your standard lift because the suspension is loaded. If that means anything when installing SFCs. I've also seen them installed when the car is a bare shell on a body dolly. I guess the key is to not do them with one corner jacked up then. Anyway, enough of that, back on topic.

FWIW I personally witnessed Steve Spohn install a set on a lift.

Biggest thing (like deadtrend said) is to keep the body out of torsion. In most cases, guys put cars up on jackstands and the car is not level. That's bad. Rather then go through big explanations most people just say finish the job on the ground to be safe.

We're still a long time from that point. I need to measure pushrods length before anything else.

Yeah...This is on the hold once more. Big surprise right?

Matt, what's the hold up?

Imo looks wierd without a spolier.

I'm busy as hell with school. I just got on spring break and got a phone call from my adviser saying I got a scholarship to go study in Sicily this summer. I have to pay for airfare and housing and I probably won't have a job when I get back. It's a once in a lifetime opportunity I'd hate to lose because of my addiction to cars.

I'm accepting donations for a Firehawk style spoiler ;)

GAME ON. Not only did my boss give me the whole month of July off, he's putting me full time In May, so I won't miss out on that month's pay.

I edited my list. I have all the parts to get started. I'm 3 finals and a paper away from giving this motor it's last chance to behave.

Does anyone think it's worth it to upgrade my PHB? I can get a double adjustable LCA and PHB kit from Founders for $200.

Also signed up for night classes at the votech. Hopefully I'll be able to repaint the car there. If not I should have learned enough to do it by myself. I have everything picked out but the hood.

If you are lowering the car. Do the panhard

go factory 82-84 turbo bulge or go home

I'm not planning on it but I was gonna swap the rear for a posi 3.23 or 3.43 with disc brakes. What are the chances of a factory rear being off?

Very good.

like mike said, If lowering you need or really should have an adjustable panhard.
This tries to explain why. When you lower the ride height, the panhard acts in an arc of the triangle and shifts the rear to one side more than the other. An adjustable allows you to correct this.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...ps65c829a6.png


If putting a stock rear suspension setup in the car and just changing the rear but keeping the stock springs and all, then you can keep a stock panhard too.