Unless you ruined the fuse block the circuit for the AIR pump is still there. Used that fused circuit to power the relay for the EWP, or just use the AIR pump relay slot.

Ground is ground, make sure the EWP ground wire is a good ground, current needs to flow through that so a crappy ground will be hot. I would just run the pin 85 so a small ground point somewhere else.

Everything should still be there.

So just run the black wire from the EWP to a frame ground, and run the blue wire off the EWP to the air pump relay?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ump-relay.html

Some lulz from the resident lulz'rs

And yes, I would do that, or go to a ground stud

Man, that weird cyclist guy is a :nick:

Run a wire from the small positive terminal on the passenger side fender to terminal 87 of the relay.
Run a wire from the ignition fuse in the underhood fuse box to terminal 86 of the relay. You can tap into the wire below the fuse box.
Run a wire from terminal 85 of the relay to a good solid ground.
Run a wire from terminal 30 on the relay through a 1-amp inline fuse holder, then to the blue wire of the water pump.
Run the black wire off the water pump to another good solid ground.

:bertstare:

:bertstare::bertstare::bertstare:

yeah, idk why it says 1 amp. I just copied and pasted.


side note, since there are going to be other things that need grounds, should i pick up a junction block to clean things up ? never used one, would it suffice ?

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/151955...-1/s-l1000.jpg

Yes, it will make your life much easier.

Do the same with your hot leads.

I have one on my jeep for all the LEDs and misc ****. Same as depicted below. Suffice ?

http://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/pr...fuse-block.jpg

Do you really have that many added fused circuits..?

Negative. right now only the EWP. Only thing that will be added is nitrous stuff.

what would you recommend instead?

I told ya.

Use the OEM fused AIR pump circuitry to feed the EWP and find a ignition hot source to trigger the OEM relay.

You also said get one for the hot leads you gypsy. Why must you speak in riddles and not just tell me what color wire goes were

Cause IDK how many ejecto seats and LED floods you are gonna attach to this poor thing.

If its just an EWP, use the OEM stuff.

If its more, grab a nice terminal strip to add grounds/hots.

Simple.

:facepalm: No LEDs on this one.


Can i just use wire taps to get into the signal and power relay?

I would prefer you at least strip, solder and heat shrink.

I can actually just pull the use block out and turn it upside down, right? Give me much better access then id be able to just cut the wires from the form pump and attach the wires to the wires coming from the relay.

Yep you can do that. I have a few wires under there that the world needs not see.

87- orange
30- orange
85-brown
86- Red

EWP wiring should be done. Hopefully its right lol


Tightened down the converter and threw in the starter yesterday, so thats another thing off the list. New U joints for DS done yesterday as well.

I posted this question earlier to no avail, but since i am running a return less fuel system do i need to cap off that other fuel line? or can i just let it hang out. I know there is a fuel line that branches off the main line right after the fuel filter, but i dont remember were it heads to.

I would say you should cap the line especially if it is connected to the tank. There is no check valve or anything in the return, so you'll get fumes out of it. Unless it's really just the EVAP line, then it doesn't matter

Its one of the hard lines that come up along the driveside rail. I honestly dont remember what i did with the fuel pump hat lmao ill have to dig threw the thread. I think i may have just capped it off that the tank so its just a open hose on both ends. If that is the case im just gunna leave it for now.

I don't know 4th gens very well. I would say it's the line for the EVAP to the canister on the tank, and you can just leave it open.

That would be best case scenario