The black/yellow wire was probably for the air bag sensor on the rad support.

found my problem.


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/...d051cc82_z.jpg


pigtaais overnighted from japan

Stop cutting things

Refresh me, rad has 2 ports near the cap. 1 above the other. Assuming 1 goes to the overflow and 1 goes to the steam vent?

Upper to Vent
lower to overflow

Top is to overflow, bottom is to steam line, or vent I guess on LS1 stuff

STFU, Mike.

:lol:

:-x

Top port is almost always an overflow. Just think, the rad cap has a spring pushing the rubber gasket downward. When the system creates enough pressure, the gasket is pushed upward toward cap allowing the pressure/coolant to bleed off into the overflow.

Port right under rad cap is overflow/surge tank. The other one is the steam vent from the heads.

Wait, so he is the one that cut the fan connectors off?

Most likely. There is a lot of stuff that was cut off on the car when i got it, but i did add to the mess a bit with trying to cut weight lmao Theres a few wires coming off the fuse box that dont like oem that are cut, praying they were just for gauges or something

:facepalm:

:rofl:

Im more of a cut 3 times measure the 4th time kinda guy

We had no idea :nick:

Harness for e-fans has been mended. Hose for steam vent and overflow done.

Also ran the cable from the starter peg to the fuse box. Not sure if I like how it’s ran, will post pics tmmr. It’s start-passenger frame rail, across the bottom of the lower rad support(like behind the air dam) then up threw the body were the air pump used to be and to the post on the box. Having it ran across the bottom of the rad kinda erks me.

Pics tmmr

Heres how its ran, not sure if im okay with it. kinda scared im gunna rip it off were it is. May reevaluate today before doing other cables.

How do you guys feel?

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4473/...216603c6_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/...12bb4709_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/...9c71ca5e_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/...9286d644_z.jpg

Couldn't you run it along the firewall then down to the starter? wouldn't that be shorter?

That's a lot of very expensive wire

My throat is sore, thanks for asking.

I'd just move it up an inch or two so its behind the support, not under. Closer to the fans, should be able to find or make holes for zip ties.

I wanted to run it directly up from the starter, then along the firewall and up the driver side rail to the box but with the long tubes id have to run the wire all the way up the the point its at in the last pic, and then double back to the wall. What i didnt like about wiring it that way was the almost 180* tight bent to run it back to the wall.

That should work. I can prob drill some small holes in the fan shroud to use zip ties.

I'd consider running it inside the frame rails too. I'm not sure if it'll be tucked behind the plastic liners the way you currently have it. If it is, leave it. If not, maybe try a different run that doesn't look hax. Just a thought.

Want to run this buy some eyes as well before doing this in the event it is a no no.

I dont want to deal with the fuel tank and rear and crap so i want to run the battery cable inside the cabin and bybass all the stuff. Using the bulkhead electrical connectors...

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...1431_sn_ml.jpg

I plan on running the 2 wires up over the rear hump thing, down the center tunnel and then disperse left and right with wires. Drive side for the alternator, and pass for the starter cable. Passing threw the floor using the bulkhead connectors somewhere near the green dots(or any were near there that isnt going to be an issue with seat on the inside and exhaust/SFCs on the bottom) and pick up on the bottem and finish the circuit to the starter/alt

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/...12f2952a_z.jpg

Why not just come in through the firewall? My thought process is on saving you money

plastic liners ?

Original plan was run the wire all the way up front and come threw the AC delete plate with the electrical bulkhead connectors, but im not sure if i have enough room. I dont want to pull the dash again.


I have a little time today to work on car, so ill see what i come up with

Decided to actually go with the original plan and run the terminals threw the AC delete plate.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/...d85fd87d_z.jpg

Ended up using the peg towards the driveside for alternator, so i ran the cable up the firewall, under the cowl(behind the manifold not actually by the wipers, which is a good idea and i may look into that today) over the top of the booster, then down the the frame rail, along the rail and drop down to the alt.

Starter to fuse box wire i ended up changing from the way i had it. sillilar routing, but instead of being secured to the bottom of the rad support, i was able to pass some zip ties threw some existing holes in the fan shroud, so now the cable runs up and over the fans along the airlid box.

Also measured up and made the cable for the firewall plate terminal to starter cable. Didnt get a change to install however, ill do that today.

Nice, Looks much cleaner.

yeah i like it this way much better lol

Did run into a problem last night however. Looks like im going to run into some clearance issues with my Y pipe VS the chassis mount TQ arm. The TQ arm is already in place, and i tried to put the Y pipe on but i couldnt get the clearance. It was pretty close though. Im going to pull the arm and throw the Y on. I think it will clear once installed, i just dont have enough room to install it.

Looks fancy, nice work