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-   -   95 Camaro - Radio Problem (http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=66782)

LTb1ow 02-29-2016 01:12 PM

95 Camaro - Radio Problem
What would cause the radio to not work?

Head unit was working in another car before install, head unit works power wise to it, but nothing comes out of speakers.


sweetbmxrider 02-29-2016 03:09 PM


LTb1ow 03-01-2016 09:16 AM


Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider (Post 924879)

Not very helpful :cry:


I had that on my last radio, and after giving BLS poor info he said to ditch it. So I believe I need to get another or, can do I feed the "amp turn on, power antennae" feed from radio, straight to the blue, blue/white lead car side?

V 03-01-2016 09:45 AM

was it a bose vs. non-bose headunit, perhaps it doesnt have the amp turn on?

the link comes up 2 pages of nothing for me so not too sure what it is for, but i'm assuming its a remote amp turn on using speaker signal inputs. And the rest of the sentence didn't make too much sense to me. lol

LTb1ow 03-01-2016 09:50 AM

Bose car AFAIK, and a generic head unit.

I am at the point of searching where I believe you can take the HU remote amp turn on line, and feed the Bose system with that signal. Just struggling to confirm the from and to aspect.

I know you will run the risk of blowing Bose speakers and have to run half volume on HU since its doubled through Bose.

V 03-01-2016 10:11 AM

Ah ok, makes much more sense now, i was thinking the new one was an oem radio.

The radio output signal for remote amp/antenna should be able to be used, but under two conditions. First, make sure that the bose amp requires a 12v turn-on signal. I'll google it myself today, but just make sure its not a weird 5v or so signal requires and a 12v would damage it. Second, as long as the amp turn on/antenna wire is the one and the same wire yes. On some radios, mostly higher optioned ones, they amp turn on and antenna are different, whereas the antenna signal wire only sees 12v when the headunit is set to "radio". When on CD or aux, it lowers the antenna.

I'll post back in a bit with what I can find out about powering up the bose amp.


All you got to do is wire it up color to color and hook the remote turn on wire off the aftermarket deck to the solid blue wire on the wiring harness to turn the bose amps on. It works fine like that. The only problem with that is you get some background hiss and you have very limited volume control. Meaning that if your volume on your stereo goes to 80 and normally it will max out and distort around 70ish then if you got in with the bose system you will max out and begin to distort around 40ish. But the volume at 30 with the bose system will be like it would be normally at 65ish. I personally recommend replacing all the bose stuff with aftermarket equipment. But you can put a aftermarket deck in with the bose system without a "special" harness. You can't put aftermarket speakers in with the bose system cause the bose speakers are 1 ohm and most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm which would be very week in the bose system.
this whole thread seems informative, explains a little about the high/low level input option, ie: if you use rcas off the headunit, cut the ends off, splice them into the stock speaker leads in the stock dash harness, the hiss/distortion would be corrected.



Most of the time when we do only change out the HU with an aftermarket one is when something happens to the Bose HU and they don't have the money to change out the speakers at the same time. You can also use RCA's coming off the aftermarket deck if and cut the other end off and hardwire it to the wiring harness to use the low level outputs of the stereo instead of the high level outputs. This will make it alot cleaner (no hissing) and will fix the volume control problem. But when you do that then you get the "turn off pop" from the Bose amps. I can't stand the pop so if you was going to do that I'd rather live with the hiss and limited volume control then listen to the "turn off pop". Of course the best was and I strongly suggest is don't bother with mixing aftermarket and Bose stuff, and just do a "Bose-sectomy" and replace everything with aftermarket equipment and be done with it. My thought on the Bose system is "No highs, no lows, it must be Bose!!"
personally, I would try the RCA output method in order to maintain low level signals to the individual amps. but with the turn-off pop, i dunno then.

OR, just change out the 4 speakers with standard ones and run wires which isn't hard at all....

sweetbmxrider 03-01-2016 10:16 AM

Ya it should be pretty damn simple. I think I have something that plugs into the factory setup if you wanna dig into my car?

LTb1ow 03-01-2016 10:21 AM

I have a adapter plug from OE plug to HU plug, so not hacking anything car side just the jumper harness.

I will check it out tonight, does it matter what lead I use off the HU if there are two? (remote amp and ant)

V 03-01-2016 10:24 AM


Originally Posted by LTb1ow (Post 924918)
I will check it out tonight, does it matter what lead I use off the HU if there are two? (remote amp and ant)

i would use "amp", that'll supply 12v at all times the radio is on. Most likely the "ant" will only supply 12v when listening to the radio, not to the cd/aux.

LTb1ow 03-01-2016 10:25 AM

Excellent, I will crawl under the dash this evening and see what I can light on fire.

V 03-01-2016 10:30 AM

If by some chance you want basic(non-bose) speakers to install, I could possibly pull together a set of working ones you could have for free. Then you just have to maybe run new speaker wires to them.

LTb1ow 03-01-2016 10:35 AM

I will let you know, thanks for the offer!

sweetbmxrider 03-01-2016 11:01 AM

I have a different adapter that I had to put in when I had the same problem as you. I also have speakers sitting in my car. U-pull f body salvage!

LTb1ow 03-02-2016 09:03 PM

To update this, yes the remote amp turn on feeding the car harness will work. Its loud of fuuuck and has static through all speakers. But, for now, it is a working radio.

I found the 4 channel piece of electrical wizardry that I would assume lowers the output of HU to a more appropriate level for Bose speakers. I will install that when I have the time.

For now, rocking to some excellent classic linkin pack, thanks BLS :lol:

Blackbirdws6 03-02-2016 09:47 PM

Hahaha that's where that went!

LTb1ow 11-25-2018 05:35 PM

To update this, tossed a pair of speakers Adam gave me into the front door spots.

-Disconnected antenna lead

No alternator feed back in speakers, but, have the low level hissing still. Which I believe is a unhappy Bose system. Time to rip it all out and run new wire/speakers?

Blackbirdws6 11-25-2018 07:03 PM

Any way you can bypass the Bose?

LTb1ow 11-25-2018 07:31 PM


Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6 (Post 950503)
Any way you can bypass the Bose?

Yea, I could run new wires to each speaker :lol:

wretched73 11-26-2018 11:06 AM


Originally Posted by LTb1ow (Post 950504)
Yea, I could run new wires to each speaker :lol:

Sounds like you're looking for an excuse to run new wires lol

I had to do that in my old explorer, it had a built in amp I had to bypass and it was easier to run new wires.

It took me a weekend to install an aftermarket headunit, 4 speakers and new wiring. I say go for it. Might as well put in new component speakers since you'll be able to hear the music with your quiet exhaust.

deadtrend1 11-26-2018 11:41 AM

I had to run new wires on my buddys 95z. Replaced the factory sub with a subthump one

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