Lathe work in Sussex County
 

I'm looking for a machine shop that does Lathe work in Sussex county. I was told that J&S in Newton might do it, not sure who else might do it. I'm looking to get a pair of old rotors machined down to a hub for a C4 swap. I might also ask the same shop to drill/tap my spindles out for the same swap. Costs for upgrading the brakes vs the stock setup is close enough to just go ahead and upgrade them. Thanks in advance.

Zerocool did that swap I believe..maybe he would know a place. He's in andover too

Thank you, I sent him a PM regarding that info. In the meantime, if anyone knows of anyone who will do lathe work, again I'd be more than happy for the info. Thanks

My grandfather and uncle own a dairy farm in Wantage. I'll ask them what machinist they would recommend.

- Justin

There's a shop in Sussex behind the AP IIRC...I'll see if I can find the name. Someone from the Wanderers told me about him....

I was up there today so I poked around a bit, only thing behind the AP was the Tire King...

Asked a couple local places and the custom bike shop, the bike shop said they would do it but it would cost the same as getting hubs already done new from Flynbye (Ed Miller). The only common reference that has come up was the one in Port Jervis. Maybe I'll head up there one day and see if they will do it. Especially since, I'd rather have the old ones turned in case I get the new ones and turns out I need it beveled slightly to fit the rotors.

There is a guy in Middlesex I use. Larry Hansen, Hansen Racing, he is a good guy does good work.

what exactly needs to be machined on them. I work at a factory with a full machine shop and could take care of what you need probably, however, my factory is in somerset

He needs just the hat to remain. Simple terms, machine the disc off where the pads contact. I believe the hat then gets a quick turn.

I asked a few shops I deal with and they wont touch/ alter safety related items.

I've been asking around various places around here, most said the same thing you are saying Larry. If its safety related they won't touch it, even though all I need is two quick cuts and drill and tap two holes a lil bigger than factory....otherwise its the same thing as it was when it left the factory. Technically, the wheel won't fall off the car because the strut holds onto the top, and the A arm/ ball joint holds onto the bottom, neither one of those two things are going to be touched. The wheel itself on a hub is no worse than a factory brake rotor. So whatever. As I PMed you I might drop by your place when I get the chance. Last time I dropped in your dad was there but you weren't. I am going with the vette brakes, I just need a lil help with the drilling/tapping part.

the drilled/taped spindles were done by the factory for the 1le brakes, so no question of safety if they are done correctly. the floating rotors and such are not factory, but again, with longer studs there is no safety concern.

Yea, my thoughts exactly. Hence why I'm not going to do this with a hand drill in my garage..... If done right (meaning don't half ass it) it will be perfectly fine. Just find it strange that no one wants to touch this stuff. I mean its basically a factory mod. Ah hell. Whatever.

a friend of mine is a welder/fabricator, and a very good one at that. I had him help me recently with some heavier welding and got to talking about insurance, and he told me that his insurance policy doesnt not let him work on any automotive applications, for liability reasons, and to add that to his policy would be incredibly expensive. Probably why you are having a issue find a shop to do this work.

Yea. I have a friend next door with a drill press, he might be able to help me do it as far as the drilling goes, but the tapping is the bigger issue. If you screw that up.....well it usually doesn't end well. Cutting the ears off is easily done with a hacksaw blade, file down the edges. Shears can trim the dust cover, the last bolt remains factory stock. So in reality, I just need two holes drilled and tapped. Simple probably won't take long to do at all, just gotta find the right person to do it. There is a guy local to me, in Newton, supposedly he builds race cars for people or that kind of work. I could ask him to do it, he might do so willingly.

Tapping is the easy part, making sure the holes are in the correct position and orientation is the tricky part.

Well...the holes are the factory holes drilled out, All you are doing is drilling out two of the dust shield plate holes. I've never had much luck with tapping, most of the time resorted to heli-coils which for some reason I can do pretty successfully. I've got to figure out what to attack on the car first before I worry about doing holes on the spindles. If I go for the front suspension I'll have them drilled and tapped, if I go for the rear I'll hold it off. Could go either way, could do a lil of both. Depends on how the money and time falls. Chances are since I'm converting the rears to PBRs and upgrading to Moser rear axles I will probably get moving on the rear so I can get that back on the car. Its all apart back there, I just need the axles, and backing plates. Might need shims, but I'll need the rotors and Calipers/carriers before I can check all that stuff.