Wheel Question
 

In theory, why (or not) couldn't you take a acorn style lug wheel, drill out the countersinks and run shanks through them?

Other than a "no, thats dumb" answer please.

You'd need the shank depth to be correct and it would have to be drilled correctly, not just by hand as I highly doubt you will get it centered, but I vote Yay!

Are you referring to a BMW like arrangement?

Yea, bridgeport will pwn that, not concerned with pattern etc.

No, this would be a GM wheel that had the stud holes messed up and I figured I could drill em wider then use a shank.

Another idea would be to attempt to use the wheel inserts.
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...xWCg2jkeirqpww

Would just require a correct reamer size and some fancy press work.

Nothing?

Usually I get at least remarks on how dumb I am.

You specifically said NOT to say how dumb you were. I guess people actually listened this time.

Valid point, but that doesn't mean I don't want some logical reasoning as to why its not a good plan.

GM wheels are lug centric, so where is the difference between running an acorn or shank I guess...?

Honestly, for $160 from Jegs I can get a crappy repo wheel, which is much less than my time spent on the mill at work, just curious.

GM Wheels are hub centric. The lugs really just hold the wheel onto the hub.

Everything I have read states Fbods are lug centric not hub. :?:

All the GM wheels I have are hub centric. My GTA wheels are hub, my Ronal R15's are hub, my truck are hub, the Camaro are hub. They fit very tightly to the hub and in a lot of cases the wheel needs a good whack to get them un-seated off the hub. Where are you reading that?

Found a couple posts by Adam stating that they are, but it seems to go either way. I was under the impression that they were lug centric.

If they are hub centric, then as long as the retaining lug remains tight, the wheel should work fine..?

Possibly, but there's probably some sound engineering reason why it's not done that way.

I would think it's a combination of the hub and and acorn seating arrangement that keeps the lug pulled straight in 'tension', even when the wheel is being torqued by the acceleration (or braking) of the vehicle. Otherwise there might be shearing forces at work, which the lugs are not designed for.

Again, I'm no engineer; I'm just throwing some ideas out there.

With my Ronals on my Camaro I ran the lug centric and I didn't have any issue, but I was really just cruising on the street. I don't know that I would feel comfortable if I was on the track without the hub centric ring in there.

Street or race use?

Assuming street:

FWIW my Greg Welds are freaking washer-centric. Personally I think you could do it. Given your setup I wouldn't race on them, but for around town I don't know if it would be an issue.

This would be for the front wheel on my car, so no crazy launch stresses etc. So, if the wheel was truly hub centric, and aligned with the hub then a shank to pull it in tight would be the same as a acorn IF the wheel had precisely drilled holes for the bolt pattern..?

Otherwise, the pattern just needs to be tight concentrically to the OD of the wheel so that it doesn't wobble I assume IF the wheel is lug centric. Cause at that point the wheel is aligned to the wheel hub via lugs.

I mean, my pro stars are def not hub centric and they work just fine with shanks pulling them on tight and aligning them... think thats standard with all drag wheels.

I am purely just curious with all this, so any and all information is gladly welcomed.

Like I said via sms text, everyone told me the 10 spokes are lug centric. The lt1 rear axle hubs are a larger diameter than the ls1 wheel styles have. I ground the center out till it slipped on and off fine then tightened it down and never had an issue, neither did you.

Now my simple mind's thoughts on this, acorns taper to center the wheel over the studs and exert outward force on the wheel through the taper while shanks pass through the wheel at a tight tolerance and exert clamping force through the washer behind the lug nut and hub/axle face. Now looking over my shoulder, a heavy duty dump truck has lug nuts with washers that push against the face of the rim, they do not pass through the wheel. This would make it a hub centric wheel while I think both of the others I mentioned first would be lug centric. This is only speaking from my hands on experience and not dealing with custom or aftermarket wheels that may do things differently.

My racestars are hubcentric (same with my 5 spoke ta ones) they even include a plastic adapter ring that makes it the same size as my hub.

how far do you have to drill to fix the damage? How much material is left?

How much is a replacement rim?

I am not sure, as this is mainly an information gathering attempt. I will be examining the wheel with the machinist at work on Monday.

Replacement rim is prob going to be pricey as it is a GM ZR1 rim, but a repo is ~170 bucks.

Next question is if anyone knows a wheel repair place that will sell me the steel inserts. I can find em online but min $30 order and at like .87 a piece, I don't need that many :rofl:

5 spoke abs wheels?

Yep, idk why gm had a fetish with putting abs center caps on their wheels

It was the 90s but how do you figure its hub centric?

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/whee...2/#post3424654

I don't buy the word of one person on an internet forum on something like this


I found this and I tend to think this is more accurate. If GM wheels were not hub centric there is no need for a tightly fitting hub inside the wheel

Futermore