need traction HELP!
 

well after the crazy contraption i explained in the drivetrain post, the car has way too much power and i cant grip for my life, so please help me out i was looking at the lakewood traction bars but i heard they arent so good, so please help me out if possible. :?

Have you done any suspension work yet? Is the car lowered? What kind of tires do you have? Also remember the pavement is cold right now. Not the best for traction. What are your intended uses for the car. Drag race,road race,street,all of the above? The torque arm suspension on these cars are awesome and will hook on anything with some tuning.

Give some more details and I'll point you in the right direction. My car has been 1.32 60' on drag radials with basic bolt ons.

well its going to be mostly used for a street car, and the only thing that i have done to it now suspension wise is a street adj pan hard bar and im going to get an edelbrock adj tourqe arm. but any other suggestions would be helpful

What type and size are you running?

the traction bars worked ok for me..i have a set i only used for 5000 miles.. $50 bucks takes them..even if you decide against the using the traction bar part the lakewood lcas are nice

not sure about what type or size yet...suggestions would be helpful though... :help:

dont get the edelbrock torque arms they are known to snap in half. chev86camaro350 if ya wanna talk or stop by to see the work i got to mine since ur like ten mins from me.

Well the first thing I would do to improve traction is go to a wider tire, and something more sticky.

I think the 3rd gens were 225/235 tires, IROCs where wider, 265 maybe?
So either IROC, 4th gen or after market rims woudl help. If the car is street drive allot then stay with a street tire. If you only drive the car on weekends or not a daily driver then look at drag radials. I use Nitto DRs. They hook better the a regular street tire, and last about 8-10K miles.

Stock tires can range from a 195/70/14 to a 245/50/16.

Good tires will help, but there is no replacement for a good suspension under the car as well. I'll also say to skip the Edelbrock Torque arm....lots of horor stories out there about that one. Go with a BMR or UMI, both quality pieces. A set of tubular LCAs with poly bushings should be the first thing you install, and relocation brackets for the LCAs would help even more.

- Justin

I'll throw in an unpaid advertisement for the Spohn Performance parts. I run many of them, and George Baxter used many of them on his 8.60-second (1.30 60-ft) 30th SS convertible. Steve Spohn's own car is a 3rd Gen, so he knows them as well as anybody.

Components to consider include:
-tubular LCA's
-LCA relocation brackets (major traction improvement on my car)
-tubular panhard rod
-adjustable torque arm
-springs and shocks selected based on how you use the car

I'm sure there are some other 3rd Gen specific items for the front end, and I'll leave those to someone else.

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/im...hotos/Susp.jpg

what do u guys think of these tires they are nitto 555r DR's.

Nittos are good if you dont' want to swap from street tires to regular drag radials. They will wear fast on the street though. I think you would do better with a real set of DRs like BFGs or MT Drag Radials.

- Justin

I thought I heard that the MT DR's got banned from a certain racing class becuase they were to sticky. is that true?

as of right now all the major sanctioning bodies are still allowing the M/T DR's in all radial classes.
the top cars in most classes have switched to the m/t's from what i am seeing. still waiting to see what the goodyear radial will be like once it hits the mass market. it is supposed to be equal in grip to the m/t and $10 or so cheaper per tire.

I need to do the same for my car this spring. All the additional work i have had done on my car makes the rear end jerk violently on a roll to W.O.T. i have been pricing UMI suspension upgrades LCA's and their subframe connector that mount to their tunnel brace look really good and it says you can even jack up your car , If you get anything from them post the after results i would like hear how you made out so i can go from there with my car.

all the stuff im getting is from spohn, from what i understand their products work quite well, so i will check it out and see how it goes.

spohns stuff is top quality
and the better part is
my father is now the primary steel supplier for SPOHN!!!

well... let me know if anything happens to fall off the truck.. :wink:

My suspension is all stock just have the sway bars off and some DOT slicks so far its been 1.56 60fts. I do a burnout until I see smoke, roll forward, and launch off idle on spray my convertor will flash to like 4500RPM and the car takes off straight as can be. Your average 11-13 second f-body doesn't need anything special to hook just some tires

:stupid:

No silly your thinking of NJFBOA events :D just ****in with ya.. :p


Also id avoid the crossbrace and just get a safety loop..

Its a good investment in safety and hell you may be required to have it someday depending on how far you take your car.

What gains can you get by using the spohn torque arms?, I need a safety loop and I see that they have a safety loop included.

The front mount on the Spohn takes the load off the tailshaft of the tranny. Its pushing up on the floorpan instead. The pinion angle is adjustable... probably not a big issue for moderate power levels, but becomes more important when you start pushing 500+HP to the rear wheels. Its a bit stronger than the stock piece. I've seen one take a 3,525# 30th SS convertible to a 1.30-sec 60-ft, on the way to a 8.60/160+ mph pass. And it can incorporate one or two DS loops.

On the other hand, their are people out there who have managed to get into the 10's with a stock torque arm.

Pleeeeeease tell me you have pics/video

spohn stuff is great, tends to be very heavy. check out UMI and BMR as well. remember, chromoly is your friends and rod ends don't ride as bad as many seem to think. :)