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- - Brakes, What else do i need? (http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=16348)

Brakes, What else do i need?

I got all my pads and rotors for my 95 firebird but i haven't done the brakes on this car ever and i'm wondering what other tools i will need for it? also any tips or tricks would help.

clean the rotors with simple green and water followd by brakeclean after that to keep them from squeaking on you. Get some caliper lube for the caliper bolts. You're going to need the correct hex bit for the caliper bolts also...any parts store should have it. You'll also need a big set of channel locks or a pad spreader. That should be about it. It's about a 40 minute job.

A socket to open the bleeders before the pistons get pushed in.

Why would you open the bleeders when you compress the piston? There's no need as far as I know.

:stupid:

I never open the bleeders and I do brakes almost every day. the bleeders are there to get air out of the system.

Potential damage to ABS units, even MC/PV, but mostly ABS. I've read bulletins on it. Open, push, close, release. No bleeding necessary. It is a precautionary move. Those are systems meant to push fluid in one direction, not both (at least with force). But like any job, there are opinions on how to do it.

Probably too late, but get the hex bit in a 3/8 drive socket and use a breaker bar to get them started. So much easier!

~Ted

ive also never heard of opening the bleeder, i did my front and rear brakes with no problem.

You dont have to open the bleeders. I would bleed the brakes after you are done though, always a good idea.
I was gunna buy a vaccum bleeder kit from Matco for 140, and still might. That thing is great and sucks the air out of the system.

why would you open the bleeder after? no air was introduced into the system.

Air gets in the system over time. Best way to do a complete brake job is to make sure you get out as much as you can. Not only will he have brand new brakes, but will have a pedal that is more firm then what he is used to, enhancing the feel of the brakes.

I know I did not imagine this.

Quote:

Can I damage my braking system when I install new pads if I don’t open the bleeders to push in the pistons?

Yes! Opening caliper bleeders and using line locks before pushing caliper piston into bore helps prevent needless replacement of master cylinders. Pushing caliper pistons back into the caliper bore without opening the bleeders could damage master cylinders or ABS components. Opening the bleeder will allow the piston to be pushed back without forcing all the fluid into the master cylinder. However, sending some contaminated fluid to the master cylinder is still possible with the bleeder open. Using a line lock will assure you that this doesn’t happen.

Brake fluid inside the caliper is full of dirt and sludge. Using mechanical force to push a piston back will force the fluid through the ABS and the vent port on the master cylinder, which is about 0.015” in diameter. Without the bleeders open, this dirt could plug the vent port, causing brake drag or lockup when the fluid heats up. Furthermore, many of today’s ABS units have one or more filters inside. Dirt and sludge will plug or restrict these filters, causing problems with ABS operation.

Back when I was in the service business, I read a number of bulletins on this. I file this info under the better-be-safe-than-sorry file. Of course, my Dad had a saying. There is a right way, a wrong way, and my way.

Edit: More

Quote:

Some Volvo site
11.When servicing disc brakes, open the bleeder screws and vent the brake fluid, if it is necessary to push the caliper pistons in. There is sediment that naturally collects in calipers over a period of time. This sediment, if allowed to flow back into the master cylinder along with the brake fluid, can possibly damage the ABS hydraulic unit. [Editor's Note: see above notes on clamping the rubber brake lines.]

Quote:

About.com Auto Repair
When forcing the piston back into the caliper, open the bleeder valve first. Corrosion and other deposits accumulate inside of the caliper. If the bleeder valve is not opened when the piston is forced back into the caliper, these deposits will be forced back through the brake lines and into the master-cylinder.

Quote:

Americas Pride Online – sellers of auto equipment
It is extremely important to open the bleeder screw when compressing caliper pistons or wheel cylinders during routine brake maintenance. When a caliper piston is pushed in, brake fluid gets forced backward, up into the system. Since the caliper is the lowest point in the system, dirt and corrosion naturally accumulate there. When this grime and dirt finds its way into the HCU portion of the ABS system, it can cause valves to stick. This can lead to: a vehicle pulling one way or another; accumulators sticking open, which leads to low pedal; compensator ports plugging, which leads to dragging brakes; and of course, it can make the ABS light come on due to all of the above.

If technicians get in the habit of opening the bleeder when they compress the caliper piston, as well as selling customers a brake fluid flush, these problems will more than likely be prevented.

holy crap, if thats right, I may have found why my "brake" light is on and the car sorta pulls...

Got another from the Cardone website

Every 2 years, I suck the fluid out on the master cylinder, fill it with fresh fluid, and I have a Pheonix Injector brake tool that sucks fluid from the bleeder screw into a container. I do this till I have fresh fluid coming out of the bleeder. I do this as preventitive maintenance. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and contaminents in your system, and you really should flush it every several years.