over drive vs non overdrive?
 

how much more gas does the non overdrive trans use vs the overdrive? Im debating to use the th350 for my 400 because it will last longer then the 700r4..

if it's a street car you will want overdrive bad

look into a powerglide...overdrive is overrated and the PG will be EXTREMELY light and as everyone knows...weight reduction=fast

:werd: and besides PGs allow for some nasty burnouts :lol:

On a serious note matt, When driving the Chevelle on the highway I really wish I had an overdrive gear, with my f*cked up TH350 the car turns 4100 RPMs at 65MPH. It really should be lower, and I would still want an OD gear, but Ill never put one on. I love my 9 MPG.

Matt, with the deep rear gears that you mentioned you wanted in your other post I would definitely suggest an OD trans. Non-OD autos are not fun to drive on the h1ghway and not easy on the wallet when it comes to the pump. I just picked up a performance 4L80E with a 0.75 overdrive gear and I'm already saving up for a Gear Vendors unit so I can run a 0.59 ratio double overdrive. I think that a rebuilt 700R4 would be good for your power level. Just be warned when you start making serious torque because they don't hold up as well as a built up 2004R or 4L80E. The good thing about the 700R4 is the super deep 1st gear which makes for very nice launches an it allows you to use a higher gear for better RPMs and mileage in OD. Of course, you have to deal with a really crappy 1 to 2 shift but so be it.

If the car is gonna spend a lot of time on the street, definitly go with an OD. Riding around on the highway with my TH-400 is so painful :(

I really need this trans to last, do you think a shift kit, royal purple trans fluid would help make it last?

I can afford the tci streetfighter rebuild kit, at $23x.00 but wont be able to afford the labor to get it installed in the trans.

( trans go kit ) thats good thing, fixes all kinds of shifting and TC lock up problems in a 700 r4, also the 1-2 shift problem can be fixed with a vette servo for second gear, it is different than all the others, and will make it pop into second not slide like all the others GM made -- i thiought i read a while back you had the 700 rebuilt ????? somebody did it cheap and now it dont work or what -- does it work or not -- i had a 700 r 4 in a 86 chevy burban 4 WD 350 cu motor we beat it to death, and yes the trans went bad after i had put a dodge ramcharger 4500 pound truck on a tow dolly with 6 people in burban and towed it from south carolina to jersey non stop at 70 /75 , it did burn up and that was after it had a 100,000 miles on the trans ????? , we towed, plowed , and drove as hard as anyone, so i dont get it what is your beef with a 700 r4 ????? , they work its just not a good racing unit for a real car -- but a toy like you will be puting together it makes sence, good fuel ecom and a very low first ?????/ almost forgot we blend syn trans fluid ( ONE ) and ( 3 ) regular and mobil 1 is cheaper and just as good as royal --- jz

Thanks JZ once again you put my mind to eaz, I had the trans rebuilt last year, when it didnt need to, i was scammed basically, because the samething happened a week after rebuild, and i fixed it with out jack stands in 5 min.

edit
transgo shift kit
trans cooler
royal purple or jz's mix
launch off idle. any more?

the 400 has lots of torque not RPM so the cam choice and carb size is a real thing -- its not an injected motor - fuel use when you first get it on the road is a very big issue -- understand you will want to drive it day and night for the first month you might even sleep in it hahahahhahaha i did -- start saving your loose change for gas money -- i am not kidding get a 5 gallon water jug and start throwing your loose change in it -- it could take you 2 years to fill it and a week to use it up hahahahhahahahha - who is it that will look at the bottom end of the motor for you, so you can get a starting point ????////--- lets just say -- if all is OK you must buy an early style Z 28 high pressure pump not a high volume oil pump -- small block 400 wants pressure and has a necked down oil pump drive shaft the stock one is to be changed to a performance steel end with the pump ( high vol pumps in a hyd lifter motor stall the lifters in the bore and wipe out the cam ) -- 50 bucks CP products buys the high pressure pump and drive -- race gasket set not avail for 400, so more expensive to buy as pieces, lets say 150 bucks all the gaskets ( Fel Pro ) only -- not the indian crap -- they have timing chains imports that are ok for what you are doing 25 / 35 bucks , the edelbrock carb will get better fuel ecom than the same holley , sure the holley might be a spit faster but thats all, i have a box of take offs 6 or 8 of them holley 650 vacume type you can have one or two if you want -- i think i have some DP as well small 650 / 700 types -- tell you what i will send you a couple of carbs take one completly apart and than use the other to help put it back together again hahahahahhahahaah -- have some holley books as well you can borrow to help -- my guess is you want to learn ???????????//// --jz

Im not sure who or if any one is going to look at the bottom end for me, I cant afford that, and i really trust brian that he says that when he did a leak down and the other stuff he says everything was good. trust me i want to get it checked out, but its prolly outa the question, just like rebuilding my 700r4 with tci parts.. did you ever find out if thats the correct partnumber for the gaskets? Im allready saving my loose change for a trans if mine where to blow when shes ready. I cant wait till i can have time to work, and when i mean time i mean time and energy.

I love my 200R4 tranny. OVERDRIVE FTW!!!

Yeah, they can also hold a ton of power. :twisted:

Yup, yup. Built up right they are hard to beat. :)

i got a few spare 700R-4's around if you're in need

Just remember if you don't get that bottom end looked at (especially now that you pulled a head off) And it goes Ka-boom on start up you are back to square 1 with nobody to blame but yourself. Call some shops and see what they want to do the inspection. A call is free and even if it costs $500 I'd rather know before I put a connecting rod through my block. my $.02. I also like the idea of the 200-4R b ut I believe it is smaller then the 700-R4 and then you will need a different trans mt and driveshaft. Get the thing looked at, get it running and enjoy it while you save $$$$ for a built 700-R4.

Well if hes going for a built motor & drive train, it wouldn't be a bad time to upgrade the drive shaft anyway. You wouldn't want that being the weak spot of this ridiculous build.