Brake Rotors?
 

Wasn't sure where to post brake question so I just came here. Just had a quick question about regular rotors and drilled/slotted rotors. Are the drilled ones really worth the money? Or would I just be better off sticking with regular OEM rotors?

Drilled and slotted are generally for appearance purposes only. Unless you are racing your pads don't off gas enough to make a difference.

oh ok, yeah that's what I figured. Thanks

Heh.....

http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=16536

- Justin

:nod: i got em for my car

While I agree with the above statement and that the Brembo blanks are the best for the buck I did shell out the cash for the Baer Eradispeeds (after I wrecked a set of powerlsots in a hurry) and when we had a test day at Visions of Speed (RIP :( ) They consistently stopped shorter by close to 10 feet then a much lighter Z28 with just blanks and the same Hawk pads and same set of Nitto 555 tires and WS6 wheels Only other major variable was Z28 Vs WS6 suspension, which probably made some difference. Take it FWIW, I have a feeling it is more in the material then the surface but I have had them now for 24K and more then 200 passes at the track and they still look almost new. The staggering difference was after the rotors heated up. When we were testing at the airport we did 2 tests that really showed a gap in between the styles (or at the very least the company and quality of the rotor itself). We did a test from 0-140-0-60-0. The 140 was not measured because it is obviously a long stop but the results we got really showed a difference

Brembo blanks on a 3500# Z28 with Hawk pads
60-0 105 feet
the 60 to zero after the high speed stop 122 feet

Baer Eradispeeds on a 3750# WS6 with Hawk Pads
60-0 96 feet
The 60 to zero after the high speed stop was 98 feet

I think the major difference was the crossdrilled/slotted rotor being able to dissapate the heat faster then the solid blank. I don't think gas build up had anything to do with it and I also think the standard 60-0 test is just that the baer is a higher quality piece of material (and for the price difference the better be). So you can take the info for what it is worth but the blanks were spotted a 250# weight advantage (roughly) and got their butts kicked by the drilled and slotted rotor. My pick? well that depends on what ypu are doing. Chances are you aren't going to face a situation like above unless you race, and even then the blanks will probably be up to the task for most sunday racers but I wouldn't trade my Baer's for anything without getting a big brake kit.

I agree completely, there is something to be said about operating temperature and heat dissapation. If you are racing or towing this certainly plays a part. In everyday driving, however, I don't think that the brakes would get hot enough to make a difference in every case.

All together racing or not, the blanks will do better than the X-drilled. Some circuts have slotted rotors, which has been argued weather or not it actually makes a difference or not. When it comes down to it, its the mass of the rotor that makes all of the difference. If you get a thick blank one, that should be the best. Besided, having them X-drilled and slotted generally lead to cracking.

I have X-drilled and slotted just because they are big in mass, and I love the way they look. My old ones started cracking, I just got some new ones, and had them cryogenically treated. That should help them from cracking, and should also help with the longavity of them.