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Suspension Options (help)
I just ordered Z06 rims for my car. My rear rims are 18 x 10.5. I was thinking of putting 295/40 tires on it. Will i need an adjustable panhard bar or will a non-adjustable one (or stock one for now) be ok? WIll i have any clearance issues? I wouldn't think i would.
what will give me the greatest reduction in wheel-hop; new LCA's or TQ Arm? my plan is to replace everything (LCA's, TQ Arm, PHB) but i can't do it all at once. I also ordered Bilstein shocks. any advice you can give is great! thanks guys! |
Ive got c6 z06 rims 18x9.5 275/35 and i have no clearance problems. I did snap my transmission mounts the first time i got on it from a stand still though.
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what kinda car? what kinda driving style? are there sacrifices you are willing to take and a budget?
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i would also check out umiperformance.com for some LCAs and a PHB. then after that some springs and a 1LE rear sway bar and i think you're golden mister |
he already ordered bilsteins....probably because theyre cheaper then koni SA. not a bad shock though, for the price. see sam strano, hes the 4th gen suspension guru. a set of his springs, and try his PHB. his sway bars are very good also. his prices are pretty much the best youll find in comparable parts. i think a torque arm is the best to cure wheel hop. just buy one part at a time, and it wont be that expensive.
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I would do a set of SFC's first.
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Well you can put them in, but I'd imagine you would want some form of coating on the bare metal due to our great, wonderful NJ weather and roads
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There is nothing you can do to the rear suspension that will afftect wheel hop and traction better than getting that torque arm off of the transmission. You can do it by replacing the whole unit with a chassis mounted design or even using a relocation kit. The stock design allows for drastic changes in the pinion angle when loaded. attaching it to the chassis/body will keep the rear from twisting in the car and the wheeel hop away. Lower control arms will help some but no where near as much as the torque arm. The stock control arms are not as bad as everyone seems to think, until you are in the 1.6 range in 60' you are not really going to deflect the arms that much. Remember wheel hop is caused by rapid loading and unloading of the rear suspension, when the rear end pitches it twists up, then hits a limit where the tires break loose then if flops down again and repeats the process.
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The torque arm is definetly the better choice for upgrading, but from my experience the stock LCAs deflect pretty easy... I'm no gorilla, but I can deflect the stock arms a bit just by twisting them in my hands. I can't imagine that they wouldn't deflect much under the car, even working in tandem. JMHO |
when you are twisting them they will move a little bit but when lateral force is applied they are actually not all that bad.. I am not saying they are great or anything but they wouldnt be my first purchase... If the bushings and panhard bar are in good shape there will definately be more positive effects from using the torque arm before the control arms. This is all assuming that frame connectors have been done already of course..
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when in doubt buy them all... Being a UMI dealer has its perks!!
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Since I don't sponsor this site I am not allowed to post it but yeah I have been for about a year now, usually get pretty good deals on their stuff.
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