converters
 

i know this is probably an old question, but what exactly is the difference betweel a lockup converter and a non-lockup converter?

example, using a 3000rpm stall lockup, how is it supposed to act?

Always buy a lock up convertor. It's better for gas mileage/driveability.

cool haha yeah i have a 3200 lockup in my car now, but before the engine went, i couldn't get it to stall at all, it acted just like a stock converter. im wondering if thats normal or something wrong?

A lock up converter has a TCC (torque converter clutch) that creates a solid connection (like a clutch in a manual trans) when it's engaged via a solenoid. The lock-up feature keeps heat from building up and eliminates slippage in the TC giving you better gas mileage. Typically, they are set up to run in OD only and automatically disengage when you hit the brakes.

Yeah I had a 3600 and you won't get that thing up much over 2000.

the way it really works is you contact a conv supplier and give him all the info on the motor, type of use and diff gear ratio, weight of car dyno sheet is a big help - and they build it to the motors power curve and use -- buying a unit off of say jegs you get a bad guess - but they are cheap and never what you thought it should be -- if a conv is supposed to be a 3600 than hold the break and flooring it in drive your tack should be close to 3600 not 2000 -- if it is you been had - jz

You are never going to get a 3600 to break stall close to 3600 unless you are using a trans brake. The most I got my old Vig 3600 was around 2400-2500 before the car would start to move.

oh ok so at the track, is there any way to get it to stall like an unlocked? via computer or software like hp tuners? like set when you want it locked or unlocked like for track launching?

we only use Neal chance unboltable and ati sealed converters - i admit i have no idea what the copys do - if thats the way they work for you and you are happy than its OK i guess -- again real stuff costs and does what it was intended to do - go racing today at a gamblers race in the NY metro area and you do not have a 7 thousands repeatable package save your money or your bait - the boltable Neal chance unit allows us at a 3 or 5 day event the ability to change the stall and lock ( one way clutch ) for the track we are at ( conditions ) the computer with its down load probes on the car have us make those changes to narrow the gap in the ET -- sorry i was not thinking over the counter stuff -- jz

I'm not happy, that's why I bought a trans brake. I didn't know you could do that with a convertor/I've never heard of that brand. I gave all my engine specs/gearing/weight info to thunder racing when I bought my 3600 and 4400 stall so it was built for the package my car has. Thanks for the info.

random question that has nothing to do with the thread, what does a stall converter do anyway?

in an auto, lets you hold brake and give throttle and "stall" the car up to whartever RPMs the converter is for, and lets you launch the car higher in the rpms in the powerband

Sweet. I want one now. lol

lol

It performs the basic function in an automatic transmission as a clutch would in a manual. It bolts to the flexplate (what a flywheel is on manuals) and the input shaft of the trans slides into the face of the converter. The converter is filled with fluid and contains veins inside and as the rpm of the motor increases, the flexplate rotates, as does the converter. When the rpm of the motor reaches the stall speed of the converter, the converter then rotates the input shaft of the trans. The stall speed is at what point the converter 'locks' and applies the rpm of the motor to the trans. The problem with automatics in drag racing is that converters are never 100% accurate and will always vary in performance, if by only a small amount.

The adjustable converter design is based on an old concept by GM called the Variable-Pitch Stator. It allowed the converters blades angle of attack to vary by as much as 75 degrees which would change the torque multiplication.

For serious racing, and if you're using an automatic, have a pro race shop, typically the one that builds your trans, build your converter. Every aspect of the converter affects it's performance. If you're turning high rpms and it wasn't built for that, your converter will balloon due to high internal centrifugal force and it might go boom. If it isn't built for the power you're making or launch load, you'll warp and/or fracture the internal blades which will cause it to become very inconsistant, or explode.

its called a torque converter. you have one already.

people call them "stall converters" for some unknown reason. commonly people call a torque converter with a 3000rpm stall speed a "3000 stall converter"....then everyone thinks its called a stall converter and it annoys the s*it out of me

I knew a stall converter is a torque converter. Just didn't know the difference.

just figured id give you the heads up on this...

horsepower plays a great deal in stall speed...if you have a converter made for your engine, then decide to do a bigger cam swap and gain a few hp, the stall speed will be considerably higher.