TRQ Arm Setup
 

OK, Im looking into beefing up my suspension and i kno i need a TRQ Arm b/c mine is ***** (stock).

there are so many soooo...what do i do?

I plan on getting LT's next yr so i might as well get a TRQ Arm that will work with that. Reading on UMI and BMR's websites there seem to be a lot of options.

I kno i need to take it off my trans tail shaft and get a new crossmember that it can bolt onto...but will that clear LT's or do i NEED a chasis mounted one? And what about those chasis mounted ones, they seem a lot shorter, do the still do their job, or are they better B/C they're shorter and will be less likley to twist and warp?

Single adjustable good enough, or do i need a double (i think i saw a double adjustable one before i may be mistaken)?

How about a drive shaft loop? Do i need one? i thnk i saw onces that incorporate a chasis mounted TRQ ARM.

Im just tryin to plan ahead so i only have to buy parts once.

If you want to do it once, and do it right, I would get a chassis mount, adjustable, with DS loop built in, in CM.

- Justin

about the DS loop...won't it rub on the DS itself when the rear flexes with normal driving? I dont want to hear a constant rubbing sound.

No, it shouldn't. The loops are large enough to allow the driveshaft to move some. Just not enough for it to bang up your floorboard and take your leg off.

- Justin

they can serisouly cause that much damage????

Oh yea....I've seen them rip holes in floorboards, and I've also seen news stories of people losing legs. You don't want to get in the way of one of them when a u joint or yolk completely lets go.

- Justin

yep, and if it lets go on the front half, it can dig into the pavement and pole vault ur whole car ass over nose right onto the roof.

I think Mythbusters debunked that myth - it will get the back tires off the ground, but not actually flip over. Still a big mess though.....

- Justin

::edit:: - (11,000th post - w00t)

The chasis mounts take the stress of the trans tail shaft, and they replace the stock stamped steal X brace with a must stronger peice. The lenght doesn't seem to have any adverse effect. Most of the high HP carrs mostly use the Spohn or Madman which are strong beefy units. The one that just replace the stock unit are make as strong in my opion.... The chasis moun units do have less ground clearance and are a tight fit with large exhaust, and can't be used with if you go duel exhaust.

Many of the vendors offer built in DS loops. Spohn also offers a torque arm with both front and back DS loops. But be careful if you happen to run a lingenfelter DS (3.5"). I did and the back DS loop cut into it badly!

I'm using an older sytle Spohn that was modified to clear my 4" exhaust. The one down side of the Spohn that most people don't like is that it hits hard even with normal driving ( well that is what it is designed to do ). It can also make the car shake pretty hard when you first start backing up. Allot more so if you have a manual trans.

Woah that is a lot of info, got some questions tho...

UMI sells a trans crossbrase to replace the one i have so that i can mount their TRQ arm to and take it off the tailshaft, Is that still considered "chasis mount"? Will that piece clear LT's?

The shorter ones mount where the tunnel brace is. Is that the one i should go with?

When you say it wont clear dual exhaust do you mean tru-dual that the Basanni system or even the cat-back system? I ask b/c i have a Magnaflow catback system.

how much ground clearance do you lose? I'm thinkin of lowering my car (about 1") and adding Kooks LT's.

what will give me the least amount of issues.

o and btw, i never ever thought that a broken drive shaft could cause that kind of damage.

Sorry, I do tend to run on with my responses.

The UMI with the mount relocate is a solid piece and will not have the issues Spohn or Madnam has. A friend has it on his LS1 car with LTs and TSP true-duels/X-pipe and it's fine. I have no idea about how it will effect ground clearance on a lowered car?

A broken drive shaft sure can do major damage in allot of ways! Ripping up thru the floor boards or digs into the pavement and taking out all kinds of expensive parts!

The UMI piece you're talkin about is the long arm w/ the trans crossmember mount correct and NOT the short one that connects where the tunnel brace, correct?

Also, isn't the tunnel brace supposed to "save the car" in the event the drive shaft breaks?

That tunnel brace will help marginally, but at high rpms the driveshaft would just rip through that.

Personally, after seeing the difference in my friend's 02 v6 M5 car going from a BMR trans mount torque arm to a UMI chassis mount (the short one that replaces the brace) torque arm, I would definitely go with that UMI piece if I ever got a 4th gen. Not that the BMR arm was bad (it's installed on my car now), but the difference that the chassis mount makes was pretty big.

- Justin

the chassis mount tq arm takes the place of the stock tunnel brace. like they said above, if your gonna spend the money on one....get a chassis mount with a ds loop

what "difference"? difference between stock, or between the trans mount one compared to the tunnel brace one?

The difference from the trans mount (with poly) BMR adjustable to the chassis mount UMI adjustable. Both in Chrome Moly.

- Justin

The UMI torque arm, as told to me by one of their techs, generally won't work with the DS loop with the stock y-pipe. I got mine without, but I plan on getting one added in at some point. Its alot cheaper than getting my ARH long tubes now.

they have a long tube version and a factory exhaust version.

NightRyda, what type of driving do you plan for your car? Everyone seems to be ignoring the suspension effects of significantly shortening the TQ arm like the chassis mount type does. Unless you absolutely need the extra anti-squat that you'll get from the shorter arm, I would think that the increased brake hop would not be worth it on a daily driver. If you check with the road racing and autox guys, they are actually using decoupled TQ arms (http://unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/) that improve anti squat without sacrificing braking and safety. If you're interested in all around better performance, my suggestion would be a UMI relocation kit to take the mounting point off the trans and a stock length tubular TQ arm. The UMI piece also has several mounting points to help you adjust pinion angle if you lower the suspension.

it will be an all-around car. I want as much handeling as HP. It will see some strip use (mostly f'in around on the weekends), but mostly a cruzer.

the relocation bracket and stock lenght arm; will they clear headers and the associated y-pipe setup (probably KOOKS)?

I would stick with the stock length TQ arm for all around driving. The UMI piece seems to work with LT headers. Check the pics at the bottom of the page:

http://umiperformance.com/2210?category_id=46