Stock rear breaking point?
 

This thread coinsides with the one i have about building a crate motor vs building one...

what is the breaking point of our stock 7.5" rears? I kno that is a vague question b/c how it is drivin play a huge part, but like is there a hp threshold?

I was thinking of puting 3.73's w/ an auburn diff and a performance cover (the cover is supposed to strenghten the rear somehow), and prob stonger axels. I dont really have the $$$ to buy a 9" or 12" rear, and this way will cost less then half as much a new rear.

for instance, there is someone who lives down the street from me with a 02 ss that runs mid 11's ( i was there and saw it) and to my knowledge he has the stock rear in it with 4.11 gears, but...then i hear of ppl blowing these things up with a basically stock car.

i kno our tranny's are supposed to be good till about 500hp stock (correct me if im wrong)?

sure you can make your rear strong but good motors need sticky tires at the track and thats whats gonna kill your rear (launching and hard shifts w/ sticky tires) dont be the guy that gets stuck w/ cheap tires b/c of 7.5 rear and therefore would only race from a 70mph roll b/c any less of a speed the tires just spin

the stickiest i could ever see myself going would be DR's, and that would only be for weekend use. I want this car to be an all around car (as much handeling as HP so to speak).

If your car is an auto it will launch softer and your rear can last longer. Tire choice is also a factor. But I've heard of people blowing up rears in showroom stock cars... so you are rolling the dice either way.

Don't waste your money on an Auburn cone-style diff.

i have heard the same thing too...car is an M6.

what is wrong w/ an aubrun diff? i though they were high TQ?

High torque? Huh?

The best diff your your car will be either a Zexel Torsen or Eaton.

yea, i know that some SLP SS's came with auburn "high TQ Diff's". I thought they are supposed to be good. Even in mags they are advertised as high TQ diff's "get more power to your wheels" or some sh8t they say.

good f'in thing i asked; what makes them so "bad"? What does the SS have stock, a zexel torsen?

I could be mistaken, but I've talked to 3 rear end builders (that is all these guys do- just rear ends) and they all said the same thing- that the Auburn cone-style LSD is not the best design and it is not rebuildable. One guy even said that he replaces broken ones with Eatons.

Your mileage may vary, don't just go based of off what I say.

na, you would know more then i would, and if that is what the pros say, then that is how it is.

Now, i went on to eaton's website, and they have like 9 different diff's. what one fits my car, what one do most ppl use?

dont spend $ on stock rear the small gears alone cant handle stock power w/ dr

hell my stock v6 shredded 3.23 open diff. it don't take much...1 good hook with enough goose to it and boom

i kno that, that is y i want to beef it up as much as i can. I figure with a nice set of SLP 3.73's, an Eaton LSD, a performance diff cover, and a nice set of moser high performance axels, i can save my self over half the cost of a 12" rear (right now) and make the factory size stronger.

i hear ya but axles are not weak point, its the smaller size diamiter gears which cant handle big power just save for a 12 bolt or a 9''

Well you can always have your caps cryoed, and used that T/A cover, and also get the Zexel LSD, from what I heard they're alot stronger, and they dont used friction plates, they used some funky system involvong planetary gears n such, I got one, and cant wait to put it in, infact the rear I got with it in it twisted the axle shaft in two, but the system looks like the day it was put in. anywho, yeah theres really not much you can do to our stock rears to make them more bullet proof, but it wouldnt hurt to do a few things to stiffen it up.

Exactly, best way to put it. think about taking a rusty bolt off with a stubby wrench, alot of force involved in rotatin the bolt. now get an extended wrench, not as much force is applied to the center cause there is a larger areain which the force is applied. also get one of those small steering wheels made to look like chain, like the ones youll find on cheech and chong movies ( lol) and turn it, more force is needed to turn it, now get an 18 wheeler steering wheel and turn it, less force is applied to turn it.

(please note these analogies should only be taken in thought and not actually practiced. If you actually find the time to put on a chain steering wheel and then an 18 wheeler steering wheel to see the affects and differences, please note YOU HAVE NO LIFE. thankyou)

Moser has a ford 9" rear for slightly over $1K. Im just goin to do that since it is about the same price as "beefing" up my stock one and will be A LOT stonger.

$1k is probably the price without the center section or brakes.

this looks really cool
http://www.strangeengineering.net/ne...earendAD1.html

As everyone already aid, how long the rear last is a crap shoot at best. brand or gears, posi, covers, ect. all help a little, but in the end they still break.

I have my axle tunes welded, GM gears, and T/A cover and run Nitto DRs and I launch off idle. I've killed two posi's

hmmm, thats nice, i may go for that in a year or 2

ur right, i just re-looked it up.

:drool:

i wonder if it also supports the factory "ASR" also. I'd hate to lose my traction control. not a bad price tho.

i think i found me a new rear

it does. its $69 additional for 4 channel abs setup(asr runs off that)

the breaking point on a stock 10bolt is- me behind the wheel, on street tires :)