Need to drop rear to swap fuel pump?
 

thread title says it all. I've never changed a fuel pump in an f-body before and i was wondering if it was necessary to drop the rear out to gain enough access to the tank; or will jackstands under the frame and lettin the rear sag be enough? it'll be an 89 RS recieving the new pump. i just dont wanna get into the swap and find out i shoulda dropped the rear first.

I've never personally had to replace a fuel pump on a third gen so I dont know if it can be done without removing the axle, but I know it makes things MUCH easier!

What he said. Be careful not to bend the filler neck.

just cut a hole

even dropping the rear the job sucks ass

that tough huh? wonderful. i'm switchin from FI 2.8 to carbed 5.7. only reason i'm changin the pump is cuz 35 psi is way to much for the carb. i have a mallory fuel regulator but was told i should still change the pump to drop the pressure as it would be hard for the regulator to drop the psi from 35 to 7 consistantly.

another option is to leave the stock pump in and try it with the regulator....what do u guys think?

i wouldn't cut a hole. Many done it, including me, but I find it unessary to do it. Not that it affects the structural integrity of the car like many have flamed TGO for, but the fact that theres a right way to do it.

not difficult to drop the rear. I can do mine myself in about a hour .. maybe less. I'm sure many have done it without taking off all i do, but I these are the steps i take

Get the car in the air and supported. Put the jack under the center section of the rear. Remove the tires. Drop the driveshaft at the rear and just let it chill, then unbolt the torque arm. Unbolt the calipers (if equipped) and hang them by wires (not the lines). If drum, i usually just unbolt the t-fitting, and make sure the MC doesn't go dry.

Remove the panhard bar, then sway bar endlinks. If they snap like the probably will, get new ones for like 20 bucks. Then the lower control arms. If you feel saucy take the ebrake cobles off too.

IIRC, some people say just swing it out of the way with the front bolts to the lower control arm connected, but its easier with all the room you can have.

Then unbolt the exhaust at the cat, then the hangers, and get that out of the way.

Take out the exhaust shields, the plastic insert near the gas cap. Unplug the pigtail (pull the little plastic lock out of it first), undo the main line, then the 2 returns, and pull the vent valve off the bracket. loosen the 2 bolts for the straps and the tank will be loose.

If the tank is low, usually its light enough to bench press it, but if not take a piece of wood and jack it up on that. Just be careful when dropping the tank that the filler neck doesn't get hung up. You need to pull it out to the passengers side as it comes down. Kinda, rotating it a little. If it jams don't yank on it.....

Then rotate the lock and pull the pump out, turning it as necessary so the float and sock don't get caught.

Wait, I just read the post you had before I typed all that. Just get a return style regulator and you will be fine.

yeah run a regulator and be on your way.

the mallory regulator i have is a return style 4-port. i also have a air/fuel guage in the car so i'll just keep an eye on that to make sure the regulator is keepin up.

thx a lot guys.

Unless you plan on installing a nice wideband O2 with that guage, it's nothing more than a light show....

- Justin

so that is y the one my friend had in his car looked like i was watching a ping pong match.

isn't the O2 sensor readout the same? whats different with an Wideband?

more acurate and very much useful. oh, and ALOT more $$$$$

regular is 0-1v, wideband is 0-5

ive dont it twice with out droping the rear not that hard but is a pain good old gm

Well, where else would you expect them to put the gas tank? There isn't room for it anywhere else in the car.....

- Justin

im not complaining just saying gm loves to make things a pain guess thats why we love them so much