Found the fuel problem...
 

After cutting the panel and loosening the O-ring for the pump assembly me and Alex pulled it up and came across this..

http://inlinethumb04.webshots.com/26...600x600Q85.jpg

So the pump was loose?











(good job not blowing the car up :) )

wow...zip tied in there. nice

I dont like the method of cutting the floor pan to get to the pumo but hey to each his own. At least you found your problem now since you got the pump out get a walbro pump. Also nice wire nuts.

Its already a Walbro 255 pump in their, and the wire nuts were changed today.

You cut the floor? You ****in idiot. Could of asked me and I would have came up and changed it out for ya in about 3-4 hours.

Why we had it opened in 10 minutes with a pair of electric sheers, and the pump assembly out in 2. I don't get the big deal. The way the floor is in that spot it appears to have been specifically designed for an access panel? I even did it on my 95' Z and will never look back on the idea. The area is thin sheet metal, that certainly would not be the ideal material if it was needed for structure. Tons of foriegn cars have access panels for their fuel pumps, why can't we?

We even have nice hinged & sealed covers over them.

what Alex said, I already dropped the rear and exhaust to put in a pump 2 years ago..F-that. Plus, now my exhaust is welded all the way up to the Y-pipe. We put fittings on each gas line and I have metal to make a door and seal it. There is no problem with an access panel whatsoever.

Having an access panel is good, I plan on having one in my 67. The point being made is not having a panel, it is cutting it with the tank in place. Because one bad spark = boom. All you need is some gasoline vapors, like from the vent line or a bad sender gasket, and a spark. God forbid you hit a line or the tank. There are lots of ways to do things, some of them are better then others. That is all that is being said. It's akin to working under a car held up by a floor jack. Sure it nmight hold, but why test it?

Glad you got it fixed Ted, very cool.

We we're def careful about those things. We used a pair or electric cutting sheers to make the ultra clean cut-out, and a small saw to cut the lines and we replaced the cut lines with some very nice re-usable brass fittings. Its really nicely done if I may say so myself :mrgreen:

I hear you. But you can't be careful about what you can't see. Bad vent hose, bad sender gasket, etc.

I think enough voices have been heard here so if someone sees this in the future they might realize cutting the floor with thte tank in is not the preferred method.

When I had the tank out last time I replaced all my lines and gaskets etc so the chance of one leaking was minimal, but I see your point about the unseen things and stuff. I'm just really happy the car is fixed. I'll snap pics tomorrow of the fittings and of the "door" when I make it.

Nice job! Now, git over here and fix my T-Type's fuel probs! :nod:

So the pump was just loose?

I don't know anything about in tank pump setups, so I'm not sure what's wrong by looking at that pic.

- Justin

you might wanna change that strainer while your at it, and unfortunately ive seen a few people do the ol cut above the tank trick, I know it minimizes the time greatly, but that is dangerous, and not only that, but it shows you tend to ghetto rig things, I.E. those wingnuts, I mean come on, a little sodering, and shrink wrap and youd be fine, a bad spark from those wing nuts and kablooie!!! Ive found out in life weither it woudl take you 20 minutes to do something or 20 hours, the outcome look and performance wise is worth the 20 hours anyday. if you are goign to put and access door ( which would be nice to have incase this happens again) you should work with the tank partially dropped so you can put a hing on it and stuff.

As alex said before..those wire nuts were changed today. and what else is ghetto rigged? There is nothing on my car ghetto rigged. Also, why would I put a hinged door on there? The best way is to use machine screws with some type of weather stripping; all it's doing is keeping out dirt and any possible water that is highly unlikely of getting to there.

Justin, we pulled the pump assembly out and the pump was disconnected from the main line.

It isn't worth my time to even write a respons about how that is a hack... *grumbles about spending too much money on AN stuff for my fuel system to make sure it doesnt leak and safe!*

Anyways, the sending unit is screwed up. Its missing a part at athe bottom that holds the fuel pump in place. When I get home I have a pic of mine and I'll show ya what I mean.

then why did you respond more than once in this thread? other people have stated why they think its no good, and ted and alex have stated their precautions and solutions to dispell their issues with the way they did it, yet all you do is call it a hack and call him a ****ing idiot

Ted knows the way that I feel about cutting a hole in the floor and using brass compression fittings for fuel from previous encounters with this. Also if ya look I did tell him where the problem lies in why the fuel pump slipped of the feed line.

Brass compression fittings should be just fine in a TPI setup, it's only 50ish psi. Houses run more than that in their plumbing systems with the same type of fittings. In fact, Dorman supplies them with their fuel line repair kits. If they weren't safe to use, wouldn't Dorman have a huge liability on their hands by supplying them for techs to install with their parts?

BTW, I'm only stating this because I used the Dorman lines/compression fittings when we did my TPI swap many miles ago, and they're all just fine. I haven't had a problem with 'em.

Maybe not ideal, but the compression fittings are probably ok in that app. Not for brakes, the PSI is too high. Just throwing that out there.

Moving to engine section for later reference...

Hey whatever you gotta do to get your door, IDK if you were gonna screw it or hinge it or what, but I walso see a zip tie that held the pump there, thats another ghetto rig, it would be better, if thats the only thing holding it ontho the sending unit, to use a clamp because it appears to have fallen off once wiht it. and your gonna stick wiht the wire nuts? hey its not my car, but there better for houses, not within a tank fuel of fuel and vapors, just my $0.02.

that is the before pic.

This same thing was discussed on thirgen.org with over 100 posts of people fighting back and forth about it but here are some pics of the bad and the pretty good. There is a post about it were someone did it and there rear hatch area started to buckle before of the access cut into the floor.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tp...cces-done.html
good
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/at...e-img_0951.jpg
bad
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/at...e-dscn1217.jpg

The Zip tie that was their originally is what came with the kit.