heads and cam on gen 1
 

Im working out the details of my heads/cam swap..

Its an track-only engine...350 4 bolt around 10-1 compression.. needs to spin to about 6000.... going into my T/A.. T-5, 9in 4.30's with 27in slicks.. right now i have double hump 186 heads, and an unknown cam..car went 13.4 @ 105 as is...

going with the XE 284 cam and heads with around a 200 cc runner, single plane intake and the 650 dp i already have on there..its all hogged out with new boosters and modified to race..

any opinions on dart Iron eagle heads? chevy fast burns? AFR, canfield?.. i think by the time i clean up my 186's and get them worked i would be into the new head price range..plus i can get a few bucks back when i re sell these..

The canfield heads are the cheapest for what you have, and will work just fine 200 cc alloys are a good choice, crane cams are the best machined out of all of them> can help, and the carb is just a bit small 750DP will make it go a tenth or even more quicker - ( BUT ) an old trick the bracket guys use is putting a 750 or 850 bottom on a 650 body, you dont loose the low snap but you gain high speed air flow and that is cheaper again than buying a new carb you might even find a used bottom - the throttle blades are numbered so you can see the size , also if you have the room under the hood a 2" spacer under the carb works real well we always used the open one on race only you wont be stop light driving for the 4 hole one, a good ignition msd 6AL < has the rev limiter in it , and spend the extra money and wrap the hedders only to the collectors is all thats needed it does 2 different things < can send pix of how to -- jz

I have been informed a number of times the jegs house heads are reboxed canfields. You may want to investigate that further.

the 650 i have is just that a 650 body with a 750 base..also machined to match.. different metering blocks, with plugs and a 4 corner idle..local carb guy did all the work for a great price..

forgot to mention super comp 1 3/4 LT headers with turndowns..

what crane cam is equal or simular to the xe 284?...

is it worth the money to use retrofit roller lifters and or roller rockers?

what pushrods would i need?

any recomendations on an intake..i have a edlebrock performer on there now but am looking to upgrade..

headers are coated...send pics to jasholdings1@gmail.com for the header wrap how to

any other tips/tricks...

the cam i know works and put it in 50 motors at least is called a Saturday night special # 270-110922 in jegs book but you can buy it alone its a solid lifter i like the gun center drilled lifters with that cam for more oiling on the lobes < but their more zoom --

roller cam is a completely different thing you need better valves, better springs, and retainers, new cam bearings new double roller type chain with a roller bearing in the top gear as well as a special timing cover with an adjuster so as the cam does not walk around in the block < bucks all of it - can you spend ????????????? --

roller rockers > in all the dyno stuff i have done i have never seen even one HP from using them but they are on all of our race motors hahahahahahaah
sure you can use a set of roller rockers but know what stud size on the heads first 3/8 or 7/16 posts -

push rods are determined after all of what you buy is installed, and we do it at max lift method , if i knew how to find it on this site i did a write up about it, maybe someone can find it it would be helpfully if you download it and read

intake manifold the best for a 400 plus HP motor is a edel victor JR you cant use a super victor and the china crap 30 buck manifolds are just that but do a 2 inch one hole spacer plastic or wood type not alloy they cause bubbles in the fuel lines , Set the fuel pressure to 7 pounds at regulator with a by pass back to the tank is the best deal # 6 line would work out OK for that combo

headers if jet hot coated them than nothing else is needed, if they came with the coating and you used them, they are already rusting so wrapping them is a deal also put the sipper system into the collectors from the valve covers that does work > it helps seal the rings to the bore at high RPMs from the vacuum it creates both on and off the gas real gas, with racing a car some will use an egt to jet the carb but again its bucks and installing the bungs if at a later date is a thing do it now -- just my take been their done that sort of thing many times with this kind of combo -- i am doing an artical about degreeing the cam in a non shop garage but i ju$k at typing and speeling and this took my a good 1/2 hour -- jz

What about Edelbrock E-Tec heads? The E-tec 200's are fairly cheap and would prolly go well with the 284 cam and a Victor Jr. intake.

- Justin

I checked out the cam..i am a little afraid of soild lifters..how often to they need to be adjusted?...i will stay away from the roller lifters..

the fuel system in the car is still a stock mechanical pump and stock fuel lines..if i need to change them out for something more could you recomend a pump? and should i run one new feed line and keep the same bypass...

thanks for all the help so far

if you are going to race a car with an early type motor and want it to do the things the money you spent >SHOWS -- you will have to learn to adj a set of lifters its easy it shows you in some cases when something is going wrong before it brakes and i can in as many as 10 steps start to finish how to do it, but lots of the young guys on the site know as well i am sure - start a new thread and if the responce is poor i will take the time and answer it as well ----


fuel system the stock pump has only one real issue / problem in a drag car from the standpoint of Heat soak -- drag cars sit around on black colored pit areas and park around and next to 200* cars in the lanes with temps of 90* so the underside of the car gets ( overheated ) for a mechanical pump to do the job - the reason you see mushtangs leaking water like a dog and a pole > ( ICE ) dense fuel has more power in it and cold is the answer, so it happens with an electric fuel pump and a return line > yes its still hot but all the fuel, even the fuel in the tanks temp is put into the mix, lowering the fuel charge you have in the car, now this is another subject what fuel holds the coolest tems unleaded / blue red > alky wins hahahaahhah

as far as using your stock return line - maybe i dont know what car you have and what size the line might be - we use a bigger line going back in real race cars so as their is no restriction and restrichion brings a rise in temps as well so full flow to return to the tank > having said that you rairly see that in place its a very small thing most opp to just use a #6 line for all of it and the eletric pump i would opp for the red holley but you can use the blue one it is cheaper but buy a good return type regulator / with a gage -- jz

if you want to get the most out of a cam on a gen1 SBC and still be able to drive the thing a little, or at least not have it give you a huge attitude getting through the pits, i would suggest going with a 4-7 swap firing order cam.
you can run more cam, make more power, have less valve train harmonic, better idle quality, and better throttle response all out of the same cam specs. it really is a good deal, just have to pay the extra couple of bucks to switch from an off the shelf cut to the "custom" firing order.
the only change to the tuning of the engine required is to switch the 4 and 7 spark plug wires. :twisted:

i read about those cams from comp..they make the xe 284 with that option..i have been reading about going the solid lifter route..and it may be an option..

maybe its me but i don't get the 4 / 7 swap i never seen any difference in performance under 800HP motors PERIOD some one has real data in this -- all the swap does is bring the 5 / 7 < extra heat buildup in the next to each other firering in the L rear to the right front 2 / 4 yea the water pump is close so what its the same thing cylinders next to each other in the firing order or am i missing the big picture < any one know -- the cam timing no one talks about is this > stock chevy 18436572 > swap #1 18736542 the swap that rids the problem is 18726543 but the crank is out of wack or is it hahhhahaha

i know this really isnt on topic but....i hope that isnt a stock T-5 youre going to have behind this motor

stock t5 non world class...haha with about 95k on it.. its survived 2 seasons of 4-5k clutch dumps and still going strong...the car isnt driven on the street or to the track so im going to take it one step at a time..i thought the first 350 would do the trans in but its held up..so now time for more motor..and then eventually another trans..