Thinking up a new set up. feedback needed.
 

Ok so some may know my car is garbage, breaks all the time and I just blew the headgaskets again.
Im parking the car and saving to build a new motor, finish the rear end in my garage and conquer the cooling problems BIG TIME all before I attempt to start it again.

Iv got a 350 bored .40 over now, 4 bolt mains.

Either I can use this setup or just pull it replace the headgasket and keep it as a spare and start from the ground up.

Im thinking 350 4 bolt main again .40 over.

This trick flow top end kit.

This Scat rotating assembly kit

Thinking of this dart intake

Holly 800 double pumper

Holly 170 gph fuel pump

I was thinking of using the same headers I have now, adding the new y pipe and connecting it without a cat to the hooker aero chamber catback I just got not to long ago.

For the rear I need to rebuild it with a 373 thick gear, weld the axles, fill it with synthetic fluids, throw a t/a girdle on it and it needs brakes, probally going with stock lt1 or maybe ls1 breaks with the correct proportioning valve.

Now as for cooling goes.

I will be getting a Griffin Aluminum Radiator,Flex lite 16" flex fan and spacer, electric fan setup out of a Lincoln mark VIII, fan shroud for the mechanical fan, and an air dam.

This will be a on going project for the next few months, so any suggestions, comments, concerns and advice would be great.

What type of pistons and rods do you have now? Why such a big carb? Why are you upgrading your existing 10 bolt instead of changing out the rear.

10 bolt is out of a 96. I got it for free and dont want to spend alot of money on the rear just yet. Ill throw a few bucks at that rear untill it blows.
Current pistons and rings? Couldnt even tell you. :(
Iv read that alot of people have shown better hp numbers on the dyno with a 800 compared to a 650 or 700. A 750 might be what im looking for.

IMO, don't look at the peak numbers, look at the curve. When I was at an engine dyno (427 BB w/ a .714/.714 lift cam and 12.5:1 compression) it ran best with an 830cfm carb- much smaller than you may think. However, Bad64's 327 ran best with a 750 (from what he said) so I guess it can go both ways.

Have you considered just going with a crate motor?

As far as the rear goes, if it has an LSD I would just leave it be and run tires that would go up in smoke before you started breaking stuff.

I have considered a crate motor from summit or even a used high horsepower motor. I figure since the car is already in operable and I need to get another dd anyway, I might as well finally learn how to do it all myself from the ground up. Its more rewarding and I know exactly what Iv got. Im still looking into different setups, the fact that these are actual kits with parts designed around each other its easier to just buy it and put it together. But im still researching each individual part and what different parts can work together, such as a set of brodix heads instead of the trickflows or something.

i would use a dual plane intake manifold, not the single. something like the Edelbrock performer air gap prm. Trickflow makes some very good heads, probably better tha a comparable set of brodix.

Shop around, you can get some pretty nasty crate motors for less than it would cost you to build one. Dont jump into just anything, shop around, maybe talk to Josh as JSP?
________
Pissing Outdoor

I was questioning the plane of the intake. What would each type do for a motor?

Yeah. I've seen dyno sheets (both magazine based and not) that stack an air gap up to a Victor Jr. and the Air gap beat the Jr up to ~6500 on just about every sheet. Motors were hot street set ups mostly.

I was thinking the dual quad air gap would be kind of a mean look


Or like you guys said just the dual plane air gap rpm would work too

I really dont like edelbrock carbs but have heard lots of good things about their intakes.

I have a few parts if your interested. They have just been sitting since I tore my 383 apart. 4150 Holley 750DP, Holley Street Dominator dual plane intake and I have a brand new Holley electric Blue pump with a regulator. I'm going with a different setup on the 383 as soon as I get it back so I don't need any of the parts.

Pm me info on the carb and intake and price.

Iv also start thinking about gasket sets and bolts and stuff. Probally going to purchase something with some extra strength. I want to have forged internals 40 over mls head gaskets with low compression for the future possibility of forced induction or nitrous.

I would stick to the KISS principal [KEEP IT SIMPLE, SUCKA!] and not mess with dual carbs. Save that stuff for later on when ya get more knowledge. The SBC is one of the best engines ever built, and anything that could possibily be done to one has been done. Stick to proven combos, especially since you are looking to build something that can be driven daily, if needed. The E-brock Performer series intakes are very good right out of the box, and their powerbands can be tailored by playing around w/ carb spacers. A dual plane can be tricked into acting some what like a single plain by increasing the plenum volume w/ spacers.
I'd also consider sticking w/ a vacuum secondary carb. I'm not a big fan of double pumpers for moderate street use. And if you are planning on starting w/ a "new" block, I wouldn't automatically jump in and have it bored .040 over. Too much overbore weakens the cylinders and can lead to a hot running engine.

Dual plane edelbrock air gap rpm with the holly 750 dp is what im leaning towards as of right now. When this motor is done and put in the car it will not be a daily driver, it will be a weekend car at best. I want to get it as fast and shiny as possible without paying the price of a mortgage.

did you just win the lottery?

This is going to be a 6 month build. Im about to finish paying off all my credit cards in the next month and my lawyer, who's balance was much more than all my credit cards put together. Plus im saving a ton of money not driving the thing 50 miles a day to and from work now.

O and I was waiting for someone to mention that part.

so what are you driving?

and sweet. good luck man.

My brother has so kindly helped me out by taking me too and from work. Im currently looking for a cheap (400 or less) beater to drive around untill i save up for a good down payment on a 2002-2005 civic or similar.

your rear should be ok, pending you have an automatic; as they are a lil more forgiving than manual transmission cars

700r4 rebuild less than 5k ago. Will probally throw a shift kit in it after all is said and done tho.

I stripped most of the motor apart today guys. Only thing left is to finish unbolting a few bolts for the heads and then prep everything.

Im thinking about swapping the cam and lifters while im at it, what do you guys think? Maybe swap over the double springs from my 69 heads to my current ones to match the new cam and have a motor with some decent power to mess around with untill I build my new motor.

So guys if I do buy a new cam and lifters, you guys want to help me out with that too?

Flat tappet or hydro?
I just know gen II stuff.....

I think you mean either flat tappet or roller, or hydraulic or solid.

:mrgreen:

Yea..... well flat tappet ones need replacing correct?

I currently have a hydraulic flat tappet set up.