New parts! & a question
 

Just finished ordering all my new parts for my motor. Just need an extra 275 to pick my heads up from the machine shop with their fresh valve job.

So any way I ordered up, a comp cam 12-246-3 cam .477/.480 lift 230/236 110ls,comp cams 2100 magnum double roller timing chain set,edelbrock performer rpm intake,a set of comp cams stock replacement pushrods, a set of pro comp(pro comp electronics some no name brand I guess) anti pump lifters,K&N 14" air filter, mid mount alt bracket setup so I can use my 69 heads,a pro comp high flow water pump.

On the list to get:
Hedman ypipe for shorty headers-(working on getting from chrisfromnj)
Any kind of a good replacement or aftermarket radiator-(working on getting from chrisfromnj)
My heads back from the machine shop-(need moolah babbbayy)

Now I would like to simply know If I can install the cam and lifters now, with out having the new heads. I wont have the money for the new heads for probally 2 weeks so would it be a bad idea to let the new cam sit in the block for 2 weeks before getting fired up?

Also what kind of numbers do you guys think this set up with a 350 bored .40 over topped with a 650 edelbrock carb,headers y pipe and aerochamber cat back will produce at the crank/wheels?

Jersey,

I woulnd't stab the cam in until you are ready to fire it. You are going to have to put lube on the lobes so it doesn't spin dry the first time and you don't want that to run off of them while it sits. To ensure better life for your cam I'd prime the oiling system and remember to get oil with the right amount of zinc in it (or put a bottle of break in lube in the oil, that is supposed to work) so you don't damage it right from the start.

Did you go with Alan Grove? If so, don't forget to put some time into your schedule to paint the brackets and let them dry- AG ships their stuff bare so you can finish it how you like.

As for power, maybe around 275 at the wheels given 20% drivetrain loss.

Yes I did go with alan grove. I actually needed two brackets to make the alt work but I ended up just ordering one DOH, it did come bare. I ordered the other bracket last night so when it comes ill paint it as well.

Thanks for the tip on the cam break in. I got the comp cams break in lube, the stuff that needs to be applied to the lobes before you put it in. Do I have to go the extra step and get the break in oil additive too?

Did you get your heads milled at all? If so you prob shouldn't use stock length PRs.

O really? I donno I have to ask the shop if they milled the heads theyre just soposed to be doing a valve job to clean the heads up. What would be the problem with stock sized push rods and milled heads?

Valve train geometry will be off, and the valve seal will wear out quicker.

I don't think they will mill your heads unless you tell them to. If they mill them you may also have problems with your manifold sealing.

As for the oil:

Using the break in lube on the cam should be fine. For motor oil see what your cam manufacturer recommends.

Either way its a good thing to check, a checker is like 16 bucks. My 2 cents.

thats funney. When I had my headgaskets replaced last time with my 882 heads. The one head cracked so they milled it down and reused all my same parts. That one head had a problem with oil spewing up through the vale breather after a couple hundred miles. hmm

Just get an LT1 :mrgreen:

Dude if I were to swap a new motor in itd be the ls3/ls9- for the sake of me being poor ls1 would safice but im not going as low as a lt1. Please guys dont rant about how i shouldnt put the lt1 that far down on the list or w.e. Lt1s arnt COMPLETE garbage but close to it and for the money these days its more economical to just get an ls1. So ls1 cuz its cheaper, ls3/ls9 if pigs could fly!

I don't care what motor you put in, but explain to me how its not "cheaper" to put a LT1 in if they are "such garbage for the money these days". Also considering you don't have to buy adapters for the motor mounts, softer front springs, LS1 3rd gen headers, or anything else along those lines?

Not saying the LS1's aren't better then the LT1, but what makes them such garbage? Optispark? If so its easy to overcome that. Dream/Do as you wish.

Optispark FTW! And although I painfully agree, an LS1 would lead you down a much easier path later on performance wise.

for the power to money ratio lt1 is garbage. Its a good motor but for the power to equate to the potential power you can get out of an ls1 I think its a waist.

Gotta fight the good fight, but in the end, horsepower = how much money you gots.