Failed inspection again.. have a question..
 

So i decided that 380 miles was enough to put on the clock for the "computer not ready" failure I got from last time I failed, they said drive 200 miles and come back..

I went today and not only did I fail again for the same thing, My car began to over heat while they were looking it over...

Now my question is, they put another failed sticker on it, and didn't change the date to have the car inspected by..But they put a second sticker on the corner of my rejected sticker, it is white with the number 9 on it, what does that mean?

what car the trans am or saturn

I assume the saturn.

9 = september, the month the inspection was due. Your due date does not change even if you go & fail.

I don't know what "computer not ready" means. Your car overheated idling on a 70* day? What is wrong with it? Do you have some kind of ECM issue?

I didn't think this was a real tech question, apparently somethings wrong with the car, and I don't really care. I need the car to run till October 31st cause that's when I need it inspected by. November 1st I'm taking the car off insurance, and I'm just going to ride my bike to work for 15 days and then I stop working so I wont even need a car...

so you dont care about fixing it, but you take it all the way to atco?

what happens when it breaks somewhere that far from home?

the car only needs to get me to and from work..so technically i dont have to drive it anywhere else, work is 6 miles away, but if it breaks on the way to work they understand, and Ill have a ride in 5 min tops...

He'll cry on the forums and blame someone else for it.

It's not, since all you're asking about is the inspection part.

Then who cares about inspection? Roll the dice, keep the paperwork in the car. If you get pulled over show the documents you have and say you have an appt to have it fixed 'at the end of the week'. Hell, one $150 ticket is still cheaper than fixing it.

well what monitor/s isn't ready? some of the drive cycles are rather complex. if the battery was ever disconnected or died, it will reset the monitors everytime to "not ready".

The car needed a sensor, I had the sensor fixed, and the car runs great, the idle went from 1500 to 900... The shop had no idea whats up with the inspection, and im waiting to hear back from the dealer..

Can you run your own scanner on it to find out in 'so many miles' if the engine is in 'OK' mode or still 'not ready' mode ???

What sensor was it ??

Might be something else too...that fixed part of it and there's something else wanting to be changed.

Or just say eff it like you've been doing, roll the dice.....and hope for the best for another 2 weeks....

Could always leave that rejected sticker in the window until it fades so bad you cant see the date on it :D

Get it scanned a reset the codes. What the hell is "not ready" mode?

http://www.lyberty.com/car/drive-cycle.html

I did the drive cycle tonight, I think it failed miserably... I heard doing it on jack stands doesnt work, but ill have to give it a try...

If I reset anything it will just make it worse... I heard saturns are the worst cars to reset the computer with.. and i think its proving to be true...

I had a similar problem with a Cadillac a while ago, couldn't get it to pass the I/M test. turns out when I was driving the car it would misfire 1 time on the entire 10 mile test drive. The 1 misfire was enough to stop the I/M test but not enough to set a misfire code. I think it was the EVAP test I was having problems with. Ended up replacing the spark plug and wire for the cylinder that had the misfire and it passed the I/M test about 1/2 mile into the test drive.

I had a misfire issues on my van - cause was a TSB from Ford for their crappy bolts and seals that I had to pay for to get replace....yea me. So I shopped around for the info and the parts, and got a deal on $100 for parts for the swap, plus I spent for new wire, plugs, and while I was there, I put in a new ignition coil. So I was into this repair for close to $200....plus my labor (had to take the crap apart twice - upper intake out - 2 piece plastic deal. Anyways, I was ready to burn the van because of this issue....plus I found that one spark plug had almost come out on its own (as in less than one rotation of it and it came out)....and another one was really, really loose. So when I was done, it ran like a top.

So maybe you ought to run thru the basics on it - plugs, wires, maybe check the ignition coil/coil packs as well as check for vac leaks. These newer engines are a MOFO on vac leaks with all the emissions they have.

Good luck.

dude, what monitor/s aren't setting? you have to literally drive the car down the road, not some rig with jackstands. do it right or don't bother

that says it all, right there.