Last Attempt.. help?
 

Anyone feel like coming and looking at my camaro one last time before I try a mechanic who will charge me soooo much money it is unbelievable? I don't think it is the dizzy. It ran again (finally) today. And now it hates me again. It is still today. If you can figure it out I'll throw you a few bucks or something. PM me if you can?

Talk to a reputable mechanic. If you turn to a novice, regardless of how good their intentions are, what recourse do you have if even bigger problems are created or found?

Bite the bullet, go to a professional. Talk to some of the professional shops that are sponsors, TTP, TMR, and SSP are all with in a reasonable distance of you. Hit them up and see who can help and when they can fit you in.


-Tim

yup yup yup .....

my car had an oil leak and would give me a hard start when warmed up. if it sat for 24+ hrs, would start on half a crank! but i would suggest a mech.

Is it driveable, or just idles then falls on its face?

Just stop guessing and hoping the right answer will be stumbled upon. Call a professional before larger issues are caused.

-Tim

What are the symptoms?

i would go to a pro but i figured maybe someone on here had a suggestion or a similar problem and could check it out. It isn't drivable but with my luck someone will look at it and it will start fine then ill touch it and BOOM

So it doesn't start now. Did it throw any codes? SES light on? Security light on?

if you like pm me or mc73nova and we can set something up. we would be glad to help

Its an LT1.
Its the opti, coil or ICM. Simple. Shotgun it.

Start with the basics, rule out what you can.

1) Are all the fuses and relays in tight? pull off the cover and check them all.

2) can you hear the fuel pump running?

3) does it have fuel pressure? After cranking the engine, depress the shrader valve and verify you have fuel pressure.

4) do you have spark? either use a timing light or remove a plug, ground it and have someone tuen the enine over, se if you have spark. HOLD THE PLUG WITH AN INSOLATED PLIERS!

5) Are the fuel injectors pulsing? You hcan purchase a niod light to see if the injectors are repeatedly pulsing, also pull a plug to see if it's wet.

6) How much fuel is in the car and how old is it? We chased a problem for weeks and replaced a ton of parts and eventually found about 4 gallons of water in the tank!

Some of the common issues are bad grounds and corroded wires. The wire from the coil to opti often corrode and fail. Check the ground wires on the front of the drivers side head.

Once you determine what you don't have, fuel, spark, then you can start to track down what the faied part is.

That would be tricky with stock manifolds. It would easier to scan for opti death codes.

its got headers

Ohhh. Ok then neverminds.

It doesnt start? Like doesnt turn over or doesnt stay on?

Please describe the situation and not that "it hates you".

Its an LT1, it hating you is a given.

This is the correct answer. A professional shop taking care of the car instead of poking and stabbing at issues hoping you find the cause.

-Tim

What ever happened to working on your own car?

If you have an idea of what you are looking at and what the problem is, yes, do it yourself. In this case we have someone who doesn't have any idea what is wrong and a dozen people firing random solutions. This type of problem solving will not end well.

-Tim

I suppose, but its really not that hard. We just have a lack of info from the OP. :|

:nod: info helps

Check to see if you have a signal from the PCM to the ICM on the white wire. While someone cranks it over, check the white wire to ground for 1-4 volts on the AC scale. If that's there, the problem is between the ICM and the coil.

2 of the wires go from the ICM to the coil. With key ON engine OFF, those 2 wires have 12 volts on them. Find them and be sure they have 12 volts with the key on. One of the other 2 wires left goes to ground. Find it and confirm it goes to ground. The last wire left is the one that carries the control signal. It will test out as I said on the AC scale when someone cranks it with 1 to 4 volts AC. Also measure the resistance of the wires on the opti harness.

If you are getting 1-4 VAC on the white wire it means your opti is sending pulses to the PCM which is sending signals to the ICM to fire. Then your problem is not the PCM or harness. It would be ahead of that which leaves the ICM, coil, and opti.

http://shbox.com/1/95_ign_system_schematic.jpg (Diagram courtesy of Shoebox)

Disconnect the ICM connector. Leave the coil connected. Turn key ON engine OFF. Check for dc voltage at harness terminal "A" to ground and and also "D" to ground. You should get 10v dc or more on both terminals.

If you get no voltage then its the coil or ignition fuse.

If you have good voltage, switch the meter to AC and connect the leads to terminal "B" and ground. Watch the metre while someone cranks the engine. You should see between 1 and 4 VAC. If you don't see the proper ac voltage the problem could be the optispark, the harness to the optispark, the PCM or any of the wiring in between.

Measure the resistance of your coil. If its around 5000 ohms or so its fine. Any higher than 7000 ohms means you should replace it. Measure the resistance of the opti harness and if it seems very high, replace it.

So then if your car passes all the above tests, its the opti.

no offense to the little lady, but will she be able to do that?

IMHO- http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...driv/lmfao.jpg

Finnne, you guys are no fun.